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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2004 insight, MT A/C car with 225k on the engine, 100k on the replaced transmission, and 100k on the completely replaced (by Honda) battery pack and hyrbid control unit. Its running rough at idle (almost choking out, but smooth under acceleration), every tech I have taken it to cannot figure it out.
Here is a short list of what i've done.....
1. installed new EGR plate, and valve.
2. Installed new OEM "B" spark plugs and coil packs
3. checked for vaccum leaks
4. replaced the rear CAT.

I am getting really frustrated with no one seaming to know what to do and have spent a fair amount of time on the forum looking at other's experiences (but maybe i'm missing something).

I am feeling like i'm up against a dead end and found a JDM engine (CVT originally) with 55k for $1K.

Has anyone done this kind of a swap? I've heard the JDM CVT engine has identical specs to the USDM MT engine, but am concerned about the ECU and wiring (might want a mechanic to do the swap).
 

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#1 Stop throwing parts at the problem.
#2 What's the compression test result?
#3 If compression test is good, What's the leak down test result?

CVT engine have lower compression than engine with manual transmission.
 

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ydnad3:
Maybe you should/can be at Hybridfest 2019 and other Insighters can help with the evaluation.
 

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I just did a swap similar to this on my CVT Insight, it was very simple. I swapped with a 45k mile JDM CVT engine and trans. The ECU works fine with the JDM engine. I've had no problems. And yes, the engines are the same. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
#1 Stop throwing parts at the problem.
#2 What's the compression test result?
#3 If compression test is good, What's the leak down test result?

CVT engine have lower compression than engine with manual transmission.
#1 agreed
#2 haven’t done one yet, I’ll schedule that for next week. (Assuming I can get it in). And report back on the results.

I saw that USDM CVT engines have slightly lower compression but also saw that JDM CVT engines have 10.8 compression like the USDM MT engines. (Any truth to this?)


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Discussion Starter #10
#1 Stop throwing parts at the problem.
#2 What's the compression test result?
#3 If compression test is good, What's the leak down test result?

CVT engine have lower compression than engine with manual transmission.




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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure will do this on Friday and report back


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Don't physically take it out, just unplug it.

Might be worth checking that your EGR valve and passages are clean. Typically this affects things the other way around though - idle is fine, rough acceleration or lean burn.

Could also be some slop in your timing chain. The tensioner might not be doing its job or the chain could be stretched. Most last a lot longer than 225k though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok I’ll do that this evening on the drive home and report back. I replaced the EGR valve about 80k mile ago


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Discussion Starter #16
Also replaced the EGR plate about 10k miles ago


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I agree with tryingbe. Go slow with engine swaps for this sort of thing. Lots of expense and work to do that. Since the compression is good, it is more likely to be something hanging off the engine, like a sensor. Maybe the throttle position sensor.

Any codes lit?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No codes....still need to pull the O2 sensor (went to do it yesterday but worried about it hanging / getting caught or burned while driving (unplugging tomorrow for a short drive and will report back). I appreciate all the advice btw!


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No codes....still need to pull the O2 sensor (went to do it yesterday but worried about it hanging / getting caught or burned while driving (unplugging tomorrow for a short drive and will report back). I appreciate all the advice btw!


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I unplugged the primary O2 sensor and it didn’t seem to run any better.


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ydnad3
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