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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2019 update: I DO NOT SELL THIS PART ANYMORE. User 'Jesse' has taken over selling this part.
Please contact Jesse to purchase the part [email protected]

If your trunk won't open and you only hear a 'whirring' noise when you press the button, then your trunk latch clutch (TLC) is broken.

1.jpg

I previously sold a mechanically superior TLC for $15 shipped anywhere in the US. ic user 'Jesse' has taken over selling the same TLC, so PM him if you'd like to order one, or paypal $15 to [email protected] and be sure to include a mailing address.

Jesse now includes written instructions and picture diagrams with each part. He also put together an 18 minute instructional video that takes you through the process of removing, fixing and reinstalling that part:
youtube.com/watch?v=q-5pFLtIdxg&t=572s

The price has stayed the same at $15 mailed in the US.

IMO removing the mechanism from the car is the most difficult part.
User 'rabl' posted detailed removal pictures.

Once the mechanism is removed, user 'gilbertguy' posted detailed pictures showing how to access the broken TLC.

You'll find the broken latch hiding under a couple gears that simply pull off.
2.jpg

The replacement TLC has two parts: enclosure (big) and cam (small). IMO, the easiest installation method is to place the enclosure over the shaft, then insert the cam, and finally the spring. The picture below shows the installed TLC BACKWARDS, so you can see where the TLC goes. You'll want to flip the TLC the other way for actual installation (i.e. the spring won't be visible).
3.jpg

If you're afraid to learn, Scott (KLR3CYL) will install this part for a very fair price.

FYI: None of the 300+ latches I've sent have failed. I suspect my part will last forever, as I've designed out Honda's flaws. Design is open source, with attribution. Print your own if you've got an ABS printer:
View attachment TLC.zip

Yeah, now I'm able to open my trunk again with one hand!
 

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Received the part today. The outside walls are pretty smooth. The small piece fits perfect inside the larger piece. I have not checked for fitment/function inside the trunk latch itself. I'll update once I install this in the next few weeks.

 

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Very cool! I don't have this problem (yet). How common is it? I just wonder if I should get one from you now before it happens.
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #7
Very cool! I don't have this problem (yet). How common is it? I just wonder if I should get one from you now before it happens.
IMO, I'd wait for it to break. The file is available online, so even if I'm not around (where would I go ;), you can always have someone print it for you when the time comes...
...based on my experience with six insights, four had broken trunk latches.
 

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Got my part installed Thursday night. I will post my review along with pictures and a how to install guide soon!
-Matt
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #12

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Linsight Designer
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1,774 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
These 3D printed parts are rather fragile due to the way they are printed are they not? i wonder how they will last over time of abuse.
The parts should last a long time... 90%ABS+10%PC won't degrade over time. Also, the main stress occurs when the latch is pressed, but it actually will increase the friction over time as the print layers are smoothed together. PLA parts and SLS parts will decay over time, but ABS is the same thing all the other plastic is made out of.

I've had the trunk latch installed now for 3 months and it doesn't show any signs of stopping. Time will tell, but my engineering experience seems to suggest that the latch fix will last a long time.
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #15
Some have asked what the repair entails. Here's my ReadMe from the downlink link in the original post:

Once you've got the parts, remove the electronic trunk latch (instructions elsewhere, I assume you can find them). With the box in hand, remove all the screws and take off the lid... don't worry, there aren't any springs or anything; it'll just lift right off once all the screws are out... nothing to lose. Once you've got it open, take the biggest gear off first, then lift off the top half of the second round gear (no need to take the 90 degree gear out). Under neath the top half of the second round gear, you'll see a smaller black friction clutch with two captive spring loaded contacts... don't worry, the springs will stay put. Lift the black friction clutch off, then also take off the bottom (white) half of the gear.

Underneath the gear, you'll see the broken remnants of the friction clutch. Take all the terribly designed broken blue bits out and throw them away, but keep the spring. Take the spring and put it in the guide on your new 3D printed parts. Unlike the original, there's nothing on the 3D printed parts to captivate the screw, so you'll need a very slight amount of skill during installation. If you can change the battery in your car, you can do this.
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #16
Can one of the several people I've sent discounted parts to please follow through with their end of the bargain and post install pictures? Five months, zero install pictures; at least four people have received a discount in exchange for a few pictures of the install. I don't want to take mine apart again ;).
 

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I found that everything has already been done up quite nicely in several of the posts on http://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/11569-trunk-not-opening-5.html

specifically:
Post #45 (great pictures of disassembling the actuator and what you are removing to get to the broken piece)
Post #87 is a great summation of the procedure
Post #116 - more good pictures of removing the electrical connector
Post #137 - more good info to work off of (I didnt remove the rubber pad, but others might find it helpful)

All in all I think I spent 30 minutes on this at most. The part was a tight fit, but it did fit and no dremeling required. I did remove the 3 philips head screws on the lock/latch mechanism which probably made removal easier. I would recommend somehow securing the long rod that goes over to the key after you remove it from the actuator so that it doesnt fall down between the panels of aluminum, it can be a major pain to retrieve it out of that crack (which I did, twice!)

Thanks again to mudder for the part and all the other helpful people on this forum!
 

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FYI that file download link doesn't work. I'm getting an error saying I don't have access.

I already bought three of this part from prototypist and will be installing my second one soon enough, both cars have had this failure. ..or at least I think the second one does because it works intermittently. When it doesn't work the motor engaged but I don't hear the full movement of the motor, with the other car when this happened it was gone completely and I heard the motor moving. Do these ever fail in a jammed state? What's weird is a few tries later after using the key it will work fine again for me on the 2nd car.
 
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