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Just got myself a 2001 Insight and had no noise when pressing the button, fixed that and now I have the whirring noise, so now I need the part. Ill post the video to my youtube channel along with all my other insight repair videos. I cant post the link so just search Jrobling
 

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01 MT, A/C, blue
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18 Posts
My latch doesn't work at all. When I bypass the "lock" circuit in the latch by jumpering the orange wire (cavity 3) to the black wire (cavity 6) then the actuator just whirs. Obviously I need one of these parts (PM sent), but does anyone have any suggestions on what to do with the latch switch? I haven't taken anything apart yet. The terminals inside the connector appear ok. I've narrowed it down to the "hatch lock/unlock switch" using a wiring diagram, and would like some input if anyone has had a similar problem, and fixed without replacing the complete latch assembly?
Cheers!
 

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Hi Jesse, is there a thickness measurement on the clutch? For some reason the file is showing up as 165mm thick. Could you get me the thickness on both so I can adjust the proportions and print?
 

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146 Posts
I will have to do this when I'm home. I can tell you it's no where near 165mm. More like 5mm. Also you'll need to print this in ABS/ASA or some other higher melting temp plastic or it will warp in the summer sun.
 

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My latch doesn't work at all. When I bypass the "lock" circuit in the latch by jumpering the orange wire (cavity 3) to the black wire (cavity 6) then the actuator just whirs. Obviously I need one of these parts (PM sent), but does anyone have any suggestions on what to do with the latch switch? I haven't taken anything apart yet. The terminals inside the connector appear ok. I've narrowed it down to the "hatch lock/unlock switch" using a wiring diagram, and would like some input if anyone has had a similar problem, and fixed without replacing the complete latch assembly?
Cheers!
PM klr3cyl he understands the wiring well for the hatch latch.
https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/members/177795-klr3cyl.html
 

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I measured this a few days ago when I was out in the garage now I'm having a hard time remembering the thickness. I think it is 5mm. Shoot me a pm it'll be easier for me to remeasure and reply back to that.
 

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FYI: None of the 300+ latches I've sent have failed. I suspect my part will last forever, as I've designed out Honda's flaws. Design is open source, with attribution. Print your own if you've got an ABS printer:
View attachment 40425
Hey guys. anyone else have problems when downloading this file of Mudder's? (TLC.zip Attachment 40425)

I'm trying to print on my own printer, but when I download this file it comes up empty?

Basically has 2 "Certificate Trust List" files, but nothing else. (33kb and 72kb)
No STL files. Nothing else.

I've downloaded it several time in different ways. Just clicking on link. Right click on the link and choose "Save link as". Makes no difference.
Am I doing something wrong when downloading?
 

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Just wanting to give an update that I'm still selling these, typically I get about 1 inquiry a week asking if I still have some available. I may make a 3d printed spoiler fix how to video soon as my father in law picked up 2006 Insight and we both could benefit from fixing our loose spoilers. I've had the 3d printed spoiler blocks for sale for a while now and have sold a few sets of them, hit me up if you need those as well.

Thanks,
Jesse
 

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11,586 Posts
Jesse. Are you coming to insight fest? If so please bring me 2 latch fixes and 2 spoiler fixes. Thanks
 

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146 Posts
I won't be making it but if you give me and address to mail it to while you're over here that'll work too!
 

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11,586 Posts
OK I'm staying at the Best Western Hotel executive suites
1899 Winderly Ln, Pickerington, OH 43147, USA
4/11th Sept

How much are the four parts i requested + postage to the above?

Thanks
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #215
At this point I bet the TLC is installed in 10% of the G1s still on the road... I lost count on how many I sold, but it was many hundreds. Not sure how many Jesse has sold since he took over fulfillment, but napkin-math says there's probably ~800 TLCs in the wild, and maybe ~8000 G1s still on the road. Both numbers are wild, slightly educated guesses.
 

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146 Posts
Hey guys, I had a problem a couple weeks ago with my button not working properly. Even tho my OEM TLC was in good shape I wanted to put my printed part in to experience the longevity of the part. This problem didn't have the same symptoms as a broken TLC (whirring) or even the corroded passenger side connector. With a couple hours of head scratching, looking at the service manual wiring diagram and diagnosis with a multimeter I routed the problem back to the 12v supply to the solenoid just above the spare tire on the driverside. I was only getting 10.5v when I hit the button. Long story short the connector on the DRIVER's side by the seatbelt had corroded the pin so bad, that the pin actually fell out when I pulled the connector apart. I went ahead and spliced the power wire and bypassed the connector. I assume since this pin has a constant 12v power supply to it with key off that it had accelerated the corrosion process.

Also still selling 3D printed parts, TLC and the Hatch Blocks!
 

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Stupid pins! They won't come out when you want them to, but when you don't want them to they fall right into your hands!

Sam
 

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01 MT, A/C, blue
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18 Posts
My issue of nothing working with the button, I determined to be the switch inside the actual latch that determines if the car is locked or not. The latch part, not the actuator that fails on everyone else's cars, I can jumper it, and then the button works just fine, but then I can't lock the trunk
 

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Premium Member
2001 Insight MT #1220, 235k miles
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2 Posts
Just installed the 3D printed latch fix from Jesse. Easy install, nice part, works like new!
 

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8,148 Posts
My issue of nothing working with the button,
It isn't hard to replace, if available. Biggest problem is getting the plastic window trim off. The two plastic pins can be released by pushing inward slightly on their centers, but there are two blade attachments on the cover which are very difficult to locate and release. In theory a long pick would open their clamps, but it is very tough. If you just pry the piece off, you will break the blades. I suppose you could reattach it with a dollop of JB weld. Probably never have to remove it again.

A little trick - it is easiest to work on the switch by sitting backward on the tailgate and pulling the hatch down to you level. Lot easier than trying to stand on your head;)
 
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