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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Hey Jody,
AFAIK, nobody offers the part at present, but you could buy one from an online 3DP company. Unfortunately, ordering a single unit is more expensive than most people are willing to pay for, hence the reason nobody sells them.

I recommend an SLA print using clear resin, so the OEM light pipe still works (e.g. a Formlabs Form2 or equivalent). Even at QTY20, the unit cost is $20.70 from makeXYZ.com (using a clear SLA resin). Add the $2.60 shipping price, a roll of tape for every 100 units, account for the 2% of shipped units USPS loses, and the cost of goods sold is easily $25... based on my experience, selling them at $30/each wouldn't cover my actual costs when all was said and done... and that's why I don't sell them anymore (or rather: that's the public reason why I don't sell them anymore).
 

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using shapeways.com wouldn't be very expensive and you can get clear acrylic. I think the last time I checked it would be something like $9+shipping from them.
 

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First post Mudder posted a link to his .stl files. Upload light pipe.stl to shapeways.com in inches.

Edit: Frosted is what you want, you can polish the end to make it really clear and shiny. I did that when making a custom grill emblem for a Celica.
 

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shapeways has a free shipping coupon code right now for first time orders on their checkout page, was a little surprised to see it as I was checking out!
 

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Thanks Mudder and Sigma Projects! Was able to get the light pipe made in frosted clear and the spring detent body in basic strong white for under $7.50 shipped from shapeways with the free first order shipping. Little by little getting this car back to 100% with these fine fixes. The 3D hatch fix has been working great and I need to pull the dash to replace the trip buttons so I guess I'll wait until these new window switch components come in and do it all at once.
 

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The parts seem to be fine and fit fine as well, I've got the dash apart and tried to see what all is going on coping your steps outlined in the youtube video. I swapped the switch behind the spring. The piece with "auto" printed on it was fine but I popped it out to see if the printed one fit as well and it does, there is some plastic scraps in the spring pocket so I just decided to re-use the "auto" printed one, unfortunately the damage seems to be a hair line crack in the actual outer portion of that switch and once resembled with the one new piece it still feels limp in the resting position. The switch worked fine but I wanted it to feel positive one the drivers window as it does on the passengers window switch, which it does not still. Not sure what to do now... maybe I can buy the switches and box they reside in? Possible to get the outer portion of the switch that has the crack in it?
 

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My fix is limp as well. it works but wont auto lock into the center off position, I have to manually move it to between the up and down which can be a pain. I have the spring in, but it doesnt appear to do anything.

The window is functional, so I am happy with that, but wish it would auto return to the center position. Would be interested in any comments from others who have printed the part if they have gotten it to work correctly.
 

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Linsight Designer
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Discussion Starter #71
You need 5 posts to post pictures.

I suspect the 3D printer you used didn't accurately produce the part. Maybe you can file the inner part down some? For reference, I printed the parts I used to sell on a Stratasys Dimension Elite.
 

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You need 5 posts to post pictures.

I suspect the 3D printer you used didn't accurately produce the part. Maybe you can file the inner part down some? For reference, I printed the parts I used to sell on a Stratasys Dimension Elite.
Printed parts came out fine and fit/finish quality is excellent. To be clear once I had it all apart both OEM parts were fine, the damage is a hair-line crack on the rocker portion of the switch that the "auto" piece goes into. The only piece I swapped out was the one that looks like a wishbone and it is a perfect fit. The spring pocket on the light bar that was printed has the scrap material in it which could easily be cleaned out with a pick but I didn't bother as I wasn't going to use it. I'd say getting them made as outlined in my earlier post is a fine fix if one or both parts is indeed the problem.
I wish I had more time with it apart to see why exactly it wasn't springing back to center as it should but I had to get the dash all back together for work today. I will be pulling it off again to get the board with the new trip buttons back in once they get fixed so I may have time to look again or find a replacement rocker switch to put in.
 

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As promised, here are the two printed pieces I had made. Sorry for the bad focus of the cell phone but you can see they are finely printed with perfect fit/finish for the application.



 

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My driver side window switch finally stopped working completely. It was giving me trouble and just got worse and worse until it finally gave out.

How would you recommend I fix this? I do not have a 3d printer.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #75
As promised, here are the two printed pieces I had made. Sorry for the bad focus of the cell phone but you can see they are finely printed with perfect fit/finish for the application.
How'd that 3DP part work out? We've got a forum member wanting to see if he can order one, too.
 

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Looks like we will have to 3d print them from a paid 3rd party. Going to have to figure this out as the warmer weather is getting closer and it sucks not being able to open up the driver side window.
 

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deleted and updated this post after I figured the issue. I'll just give the values here.

Here are the sizes I used in shape ways after switching the mm to inches.

Light Pipe X 30.95 mm Y 13.13 mm Z 6.35 mm?


The spring detent is coming up at X 4.57 mm Y 8.38 mm Z 13.62 mm. This didn't need converting.
 
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