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The window switch parts require a rather expensive 3D printer to manufacture them accurately enough. Which process did you use? You might be able to file your specific parts to make them work. Another option would be to get the outer part printed slightly larger (e.g. 1%) and hope it still fits in the switch button. An easier option, however, is to get the parts printed on a higher quality machine. Back when I still sold this part, I used a $30,000 printer and didn't have the issues you described above... all my issues were on the customer side ;).
There is a lot of talk about the switch not centering.

Mudder recommended increasing the size by 1%. I'm wondering if I should possibly order a second spring detent at make it 2-3% larger this way I can file it down to hopefully avoid the centering issue of the switch.

Does anyone know what part mudder is talking about when he says outer part? Is this the spring detent or the light pipe that should be ordered larger?
 

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I opened my dash and got to the window switch to fix.

What is odd is if I move that lever up and down the window does not open or close. I hear a relay click when I move the switch but the window does not move.

The passenger window works fine, the car is ON.

I don't see how repairing the switch will do anything if the window is not functioning.



In the picture you can see the switch I circled on the left which controls the driver side window, this does not move the window up and down.

 

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agreed, if you can hear relays clicking then most likely the window regulator motor is burned out or has become too weak and the drag on the window's track is not letting it move.
 

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Yes it seems the window switch is fine. The clear part of the switch was actually broke so I replaced that, but it was still intact enough to move the sliding button that controls the relays.

I wonder if the switch got stuck in the closed position and that wore out the motor with time. The switch was not able to really center itself so it would kind of move up and down.

There is actually a separate fuse for the driver side and passenger side windows, but they seem fine.

I used the 3d printed clear part and kept the other parts in the switch stock as they were not broken and put my dash back.

I will order a new motor and tear apart the door to see if its the motor.
 

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I had something similar happen to my CVT model, when I would roll it all the way down it would get stuck and wouldn't roll up for a while. Then eventually roll up, but after repeatedly doing that it eventually just stopped.

On my MT that I have now it does the same thing, but as long as I don't let it roll all the way down it rolls up every time. Even if it's a cm from bottoming out it keeps it from sticking.
 

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My window also did the same thing before it broke, if I went all the way down it wouldn't go back up until some time had passed.

Now it is totally dead. The switch seemed to test out fine also by following the trouble shooting diagram to jump the wires connected to the switch to check if the window would go down.

I'm going to have to open up the door. I ordered a used power window motor from ebay.

I did repair the switch with the 3d light bar part as mine was broken. Even though the switch internal light bar was broken which caused the switch to easily move around, it did work. I could hear the relays clicking as I moved it up and down.

I have a nasty suspicion that the motor isn't the problem though.
 

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I might be wrong. Probably am. But: my window too, now has the “problem”
Still works after an ignition switch reset. But probably won’t for ever. Is there a single related fuse involved with the window motors. Some one in another thread mentioned a separate controll unit somewhere with a switch in or on it that operates the windows when the switches don’t
I’m wondering if pulling a fuse might save the motor from frying while waiting for a new switch. Are the switches still available but just expensive, or are they history. Which would explain 3D printing the broken mechanical parts.
 

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My girlfriend's window switch died while the window was down. I was able to roll up her window by jumping a couple wires in the door. I used a woefully undersized wire but it did the job without melting. edit: I do want to say that this is probably unsafe and could be a burn/fire risk so be careful.


I don't remember what I did exactly. It must have been something simple, like at a window motor connector, shorting a common wire to one pin = up, other pin = down. I remember figuring it out with just a multimeter.
 

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My 3d window switch parts I ordered works.

The auto down feature works. Not sure why people had trouble.

The light shines though mine also.

Ordered parts through shape ways and everything works.

It could be possible that I only replaced the light pipe as that was the only thing broken on mine.

I did not replace the spring detent body, I kept the tiny white honda plastic one as it was not broken and figured why replace it as the 3d printed detent body seemed loose and didn't snap into place. I figured this may be the reason why people are having trouble with the auto down. Who knows, but I know my auto down doesn't work and I didn't replace the spring detent.

That being said I would just replace the light pipe if that is all that is broken and the stock white spring detent seems fine, this way your auto down may still work.
 

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Just a warning to everyone.

If your switch is failing and becomes limp, your driver side motor is at risk of burning out. This has happened to me and someone else recently. I believe the window switch is easily stuck up and is constantly trying to close when the window switch becomes limp burning out the motor.

If your switch is limp and the window is going down by itself when you hit bumps and stuff, replace the switch ASAP or risk having to change out the driver side motor like I had to, and waste $100 bucks for the used part and hours messing around in the door because you were too lazy to fix it right away.
 

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Just a warning to everyone.

If your switch is failing and becomes limp, your driver side motor is at risk of burning out. This has happened to me and someone else recently. I believe the window switch is easily stuck up and is constantly trying to close when the window switch becomes limp burning out the motor.
My switch has done this and I was concerned about the same happening (it hasn't, yet). Before I saw this thread, I bought a set of switches from a CRX very cheaply, with the intention of swapping the switch mechanism or at least the broken part over.
The CRX switch unit isn't a drop in replacement because it includes two extra switches for the rear windows!

Has anyone tried that before? If it's known not to work then I won't waste time and will do the 3D print option.
 

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I would say easiest way to fix it is just order the 3d part. It takes over a month to get the part though.

Take out your switch and visually inspect which parts are broke, if its just the light pipe then just replace that, don't bother with the spring detent.

I would be surprised if the CRX switch was easy to convert over to it and use it with the insight. If that works post the results.
 

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I would say easiest way to fix it is just order the 3d part. It takes over a month to get the part though.

Take out your switch and visually inspect which parts are broke, if its just the light pipe then just replace that, don't bother with the spring detent.

I would be surprised if the CRX switch was easy to convert over to it and use it with the insight. If that works post the results.
Thanks. The switch I bought (actually from a CRV I think) was completely different inside, no easy way to transplant any parts. The CRV one is a solid, well built unit with discrete metal switch mechanisms. The Insight one is extremely flimsy and cheap looking by comparison.

Anyway it was the light guide that had split on mine so I just glued it up for now. Good to know the parts are still available, I should order a set for when it breaks again.
 

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Just another tip, when I pulled my window switch to test it, I stuck volt meter probes in the connector. The probes were big enough to fit and stay held in place by forcing them in.

This caused my passanger side window to stop working, or was working intermittently until it finally failed.

Had to pull the passenger door open and figure out it was the connector, needed to pry back the pins to make a good connection. Everything is OK now, but wasted a lot of time for nothing.

Also be careful with the dash, make sure to watch the videos on how to remove it. I cracked mine initially when I changed out my bad trip button. Then the crack got worse when removing the dash to replace the switch, and finally broke out completely when fixing the passenger window the last time.

The good news is I can't see the crack while driving so I'll just live with it and put the pieces back in place.

This is a very real issue as the dash is so fragile and must be more fragile from age. Make sure to remove the steering column and lay it on the seat, very simple and pry carefully from the bottom. Go to harbor freight and get dash pry trim for less than $10 bucks also. https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-pc-64126.html



 

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Sucks about your dash... I had one break too from sun damage to the plastic. I had bought one from a forum member for around $150 shipped but most buttons were pulled including the window switch. I planned to repair the broken one and resin glued it all back together and fine body filler skimmed the cracks from above.. that is as far as I took it and threw it in the trash about a month ago since I don't have the car in my possession anymore.

Anyway the switch has stopped working while mounted in the dash again, I pulled the switch block from the dash and if the actual outer portion (black outer most part of the switch) is held tight on either end the switch functions properly. So I scoured ebay for other rocker switches (mostly honda) that would work but none are like the driver side "AUTO" down one. I'm going to resin this one back together and we'll see how long it lasts BUT after I removed the switch block I routed the harness connection for it down into the dash and popped out the center of the three "dummy" blocks. Now I'm thinking a Honda OEM switch (that fit the dummy block) from another car could be put into this dummy block opening and just de-pin the harness for just the wires for the AUTO switch then run the drivers window from this location leaving the dash switch to be dead but no longer needed... thoughts?
 

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[EDIT: I deeply regret that I began my posting in this, the designer mudder's, thread by immediately grousing about costs--FROM ANOTHER VENDOR, instead of beginning properly with GRATITUDE for the designs and the GIFT of open-sourcing. Sometimes I get so caught-up in what I imagine are serious problems that I forget what is really important. I am sorry it's late, but...]

FIRSTLY,

"Thank you MISTER mudder, for devoting your time to addressing a problem facing so many of us Insight owners, and for making your solution available as open source. The youtube video was icing on the cake."

Update: the honeymoon appears to be over...
Today's price quote from Shapeways.com for making the two parts out of clear SLA is $30 each + processing + shipping + tax (incl. on the shipping and on the processing...):
Order Summary
Items (2 @$30): $60.00
Processing: $3.60
Shipping: $8.99
Tax 5.5%: $3.99
Total: $76.58

Just ouch. Must find someone with cheaper machine. Take chance. Hope for best.
 

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You only need the larger part in the more expensive clear SLA, the other part use the $6 dollar plastic. I did not even need to use the smaller part because my stock one was fine. The smaller part is actually white and no light can shine through it, so dont get that part in SLA, get the most robust cheap plastic.

Actually you dont need the larger part in clear, if you dont mind the light not shining through. You will never look for the light anyway as you know where your switch is.

Save the money if you want a cheap fix, it wont ever look stock anyway after this mod.
 

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Good points. All. I don't need clear, and it never occurred to me that it was more expensive. (New to 3Dprintworld.)

I was under the impression that SLA was specified for durability's sake, but I went back to Shapeways.com and chose MJF (multi-jet fusion plastic) in default gray using PA12 Glass Beads, "40% glass bead filled nylon 12 material with high stiffness and dimensional stability".

The two parts came in at $11 each so the bite looks like this:
Order Summary
Items (2 @$11): $22.00
Processing: $1.32
Shipping: $8.99
Tax 5.5%: $1.79
Total: $34.10

I can swing this more easily.

Thanks for talking me off the building ledge, IB.
 
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