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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought an insight the other day with 435k miles on the clock. The engine has oil in the coolant and is throwing vtec codes. The car is a 2001 and I have an engine/transmission from a 2006 w/136k sitting nearby. I'm trying to decide if I want to swap out drivetrains since I have the spares, or if I want to do a head gasket only to find this drivetrain has other problems.

Oil was black, but thin. Coolant was chocolate milk. CVT fluid was low or empty. I was able to take it for a test drive, though.

Thoughts on the better route forward? I'm up to either task, it's not my first head gasket and I pulled the other engine myself.

 

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I'll bite. Why not do both? Installt the drivetrain from the 06 and then rebuild the 01 from the bottoms up at your leisure?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update time!

Sorry, no video this time. I don't think anyone actually cares, but still. No video.

I decided to keep the original engine in the car because A: It runs and B: Figuring out a new way to mount an idler pulley on the replacement engine proved too much a hurdle.
The problem is I decided this AFTER removing the wiring harness and therefor breaking the knock sensor.
The good new is that we now know you can apparently just hondabond the the knock sensor back together. The bad news is that that post came out approximately three days after I had ordered a $100 sensor from rockauto.

Anyway, a new knock sensor, new map sensor, recycled temp sensor and recycled vtec solenoid later, all of my check engine codes seem to have faded away. It still idles unnervingly rough, and I haven't figured out what the hell is in the coolant, but I seem to have an operable car. This week sometime I plan to take it through emissions and get it registered. If that goes well, I think the major part of this project is sorted.
 

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I'd be interested in feedback on the 435k engine once you get it running. Will it burn any significant amount of oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll definitely keep y'all updated on that.
The engine is currently COATED in grime, though, so I expect it's going to be leaking more oil out the valve cover gasket than it'll be burning.
 

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I assume you are going to change ALL the fluids before driving any distances. Keep an eye on your coolant level. The radiator coolant color may be a leaking headgasket sealer in the coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've already changed the fluids, however I haven't effectively flushed the coolant yet, so I've yet to put proper coolant in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been driving it for the past couple of days, have put about 70 miles on it, and a few things have popped up:
1: IAC code. I can't seem to get the one off of my parts engine without stripping screws, so I think I'm just going to use the whole throttle assembly
2: It won't hold a steady temperature. It seems to fluctuate wildly between the bar below red and about 8 bars. I suspect this is due to an improperly bled coolant system or a failing cooling fan. I still haven't actually flushed the coolant because I'm a lazy punk, but when I do I'm going to make sure to properly bleed the system to see if the problem then goes away.

On that note, I haven't searched yet, but any tips on bleeding the coolant system?
 

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2: It won't hold a steady temperature. It seems to fluctuate wildly between the bar below red and about 8 bars. I suspect this is due to an improperly bled coolant system or a failing cooling fan. I still haven't actually flushed the coolant because I'm a lazy punk, but when I do I'm going to make sure to properly bleed the system to see if the problem then goes away.
DON'T WAIT. This sort of thing is very dangerous for your cylinder head. On the left side of the head, driver's side, you will see a small fitting which looks like a grease fitting. Open it and fill until coolant comes out. Close it.

Adjacent, you will see a small vertical tube with a rubber cap on it. Remove the cap and fit a short piece of rubber hose with a funnel in the end of it. Half fill the funnel, start the engine and let it go through several fan cycles. Before you start, turn the heater up to maximum control to interior.
 

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Do it this way:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another thing that's popped up that I forgot to mention earlier is that when it goes to autostop, sometimes the indicator light will come on, but it'll idle up to 2k. This is reset by turning the car off and then back on about 50% of the times I've tried. Anyone have ideas on what could be causing this behavior?
 

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Btw, you’ll have oil in the coolant forever unless you wash it out.

Some folks use dish detergent. Low sudsing kind for dishwashers.
 
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