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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know what the difference is between econ mode and auto mode on the A/C system besides the auto stop functionality? Does A/C controller toggle the compressor on and off in either of these modes, or does it just change the fan speed? Also, when I set my A/C on 70, does that mean controller will try to achieve 70F according to the internal air sensor? because my internal sensor is usually 8-12 degrees higher than my set temperature. I just had the compressor, a pressure switch, and one of the sensors replaced, and i'm still having some issues with the A/C, that's why I'm asking.
 

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The auto setting will change fan speeds to achieve the desired temperature. It takes measurements from the interior temp and sun sensor. It also keeps the compressor on. Econ mode cycles the compressor on and off (better for gas mileage) and runs at the set speed.
 

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Actually, the compressor cycles on both settings. The ECON mode runs the fan more slowly, so it takes longer to cool the car and if it's really hot, it won't keep the temperature down as well...
 

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If you hit ECON twice you can turn the AC off. The ECON mode also allows the engine to auto stop by allowing the AC to shut down temporarily.
 

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Auto stop functionality aside if you use the auto climate control function Auto will run a higher fan speed than econ. Both cycle the compressor reguardless. I always used to put it in econ and then manually set the fan speed higher so I'd have auto stop, and the fan keeps going durring auto stop this way so you still get some cool air for a little while.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When you say both modes cycle the compressor, does it cycle it every 5-10 seconds, or does it shut off for 30+ seconds? I 've had my compressor completely shut off for 1-2 minutes, and the A/C will start blowing warm air.
 

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flemingljr said:
When you say both modes cycle the compressor, does it cycle it every 5-10 seconds, or does it shut off for 30+ seconds? I 've had my compressor completely shut off for 1-2 minutes, and the A/C will start blowing warm air.
It depends on how hot it is outside. When it's 95+, then it cycles off for 10 or 15 seconds but when it's cooler, it'll stay off for 30 seconds or more. The only time it should blow warm air is when in auto-stop and it's exhausted it's supply of cold refrigerant.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
when the temperature dial is set to 60 (lowest setting), the compressor should never toggle on and off, right?
 

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No, the compressor is controlled by a pressure switch. When the pressure in the system gets to the control point, the compressor is shut off.
 

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Sorry not quite right Dougie.

The Honda system uses a thermostat limiting system. The low temperature point of the evaporator is limited to prevent possible freeze-up (compressor is cycled off).

There also is a dual pressure switch, but its a fail safe limiter. Too high = restricted flow and rapid compressor damage. Too low = insufficent lubrication flow ultimately resulting in compressor damage.

IIRC the Ford system uses a pressure cycling switch to do the job CCOT, Clutch Cycle Orfice Tube). Since in a closed system pressure is proportional to temperature the effect of limiting the low temperature of the evaporator (inside coil) is the same.

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so, it sounds like at the lowest setting (60), it's still possible for the compressor to shut on and off? i've been watching the temperature of the evaporator everyday (there's another thread that shows how to do this), and every so often it starts ramping up from 4-6 degrees all the way to 18, and then seems to kick back in and come down again. sometimes it hangs long enough for the air coming out of the vents to warm up. i just had a pressure switch, and a new compressor put into the car, do you think it could be the controller messing up and telling the compressor to come on and off at the wrong time?
 

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There are multiple inputs to a Honda climate control system that will further limit compressor on time. If your trying to do some sort of complex diagnosis you'll need the service and electrical manuals. However, and IIRC there is no table defining the control panels evap input temp vs. comp on logic.

Such systems are diagnosed by there bottom line cooling ability. If the center duct output temp can reach and sustain (on average) 40-44F while driving with Rec on and @ a minimum of 30MPH then its "working". Depending on ambient conditions this cooling ability may be attained @idle too.

On the input side and internal to the control unit it would be unlikely that there is some type of intermittant open circuit failure that would cause insufficient cooling and go undetcted (fault detection codes). However, such is always a "possibility". But open circuit failures in the compressor output control could cause such and IIRC will not set a code.

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I still think I have a problem, last night I was driving, the outside air temp was probably around 80. I had the A/C set to AUTO, and the temp set to 70, the car started toggling the compressor on and off, and the inside temp of the car never got below 78F. Shouldn't the controller keep blowing cold air until the interior sensor reaches the set temperature?
 

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Temp real vs. set

My general observation is that the 'set' temperature is rather to be taken with a grain of salt. It's a nice precise digital number, but not very accurate.

I think of the temperature dial more like a digital lever as in the old style cars, as it doesn't really seem to match my interior temp that accurately.

If you have it set to 70, I wouldn't be surprised if your interior temp till lingers around the mid 70's just because the feedback isn't very good.

If you can, crank it low on the downhills, then let it recirculate as you cruise or go uphill. A passenger does a good job at this, but you may have to whack them if they get greedy and run the AC on an uphill just because they are dying of the heat and don't believe enough in LMPG.
 
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