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Ok. I'll probably step down to a 50 amp jobber then. They are cheap enough that I'll buy 2 and throw one in the glove box in case the first one goes out. Cheap insurance.
 

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Psu Efficiency.

At the high voltage end I measured 300V x 2.5A input = 750W = 13.8V x 50A output = 690w.
So that's 60W lost to heat & the fan running. Probably about 50w heat and 10w fan.
That's around 92% efficiency, call it ~90%.

At the low voltage end as per video2 say 60V x 2.9A input = 174W = 13.8v x 10.25A output = 141W
That's 33w lost to heat/fan. around 80% efficiency.

These exclude IMA motor loses and loses in the 3 phase rectifier yet to be added.
It will probably run around 80-85% average efficiency including IMA motor and rectifier..

I think the 3phase 35A 600V input rectifier I bought is slight overkill, a 25A should do easily.
I doubt the current draw even with 13.8v 60A output at low voltage (60v input) will exceed 18A.

I may have missed it, I did just scan through the whole thread, but I couldn't find it.

For the bridge rectifier what ratings should I get? Is 100 amps enough?
I knew there was some math somewhere, here you go.
 

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I finally got a chance to gut my cargo area and install this PSU. Works great! Mine is an HRP-600-12. I bypassed the internal rectifier and at fast idle I get 13.5 volts or thereabouts. If I get past 2000 RPM I hold a steady 14.4 all the time.

When the car is fully warm and idle drops down to 700-800 rpm level(?) The meanwell will shut off after a few seconds. It's not a problem at all. Sitting at a traffic light at night with lights, wipers, and the HVAC fan on full I never dropped below 12 volts. And as soon as you touch the gas pedal it jumps back up to over 14 volts.

Fwiw I have stock headlights, but LED interior lights and my from turn and run lights are LED. Tailights are still halogen. I don't know how much the internal rectifier would change these numbers, but for how easy it is to do I would highly recommend bypassing it. Peter said it took a 100 watt soldering iron to melt the solder, but mine melted easily with a 40 watt iron. It was so easy, I'm sure I could have used my 23 watt iron which I much prefer. It seemed like regular old lead solder to me.


My next project is to get the PSU solidly mounted in the car and integrate a battery isolator relay to prevent the parasitic draw. After that I will finish out my cargo area again with some 1/4" Ply and new carpet. I plan to put access doors over as many little cubby holes as I can manage. I like having hidden storage for things like a tool kit, etc under the floor. I may also put a second battery in the rear but haven't decided on that yet. If I do it will be small and light like a motorcycle gel battery.


Great Mod! Thanks again Peter!
 
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