Honda Insight Forum banner

1 - 20 of 101 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few months back I bought a NiMH battery in good condition and was able to use assist for the first time. After helping Natalya with her LTO install, I decided to pursue a similar solution for my 2000 citrus MT.

Right now we are pulling together tools to more easily reproduce an aluminum bolt-in subframe to hold three Honda Fit lithium batteries.

I am relatively new to the world of electronics however I'm an experienced mechanic and have learned a lot about this wonderful car and the many modifications the IC community performs since joining a year ago. I'm very excited to get this LTO installation completed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
While waiting on a few more supplies to arrive I modified the BCM and MCM per 40% Current Hack. Peter documents the original splice-in method in this thread. He now offers a clean and nearly foolproof internally mounted pcb for the MCM portion of the mod, more on that here.

I already began soldering resisters on my MCM before learning about the 2019 CH pcb, so I opted to continue with the hard-soldered method.

A list of needed resisters can be found at the top of the 2019 Current Hack thread. Beware of older versions of the resister list floating around. Check the 2019 Current Hack thread for the correct ones to use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
As mentioned I am fairly new to electronics and soldering. So bear with the sloppy work below. I haven't seen any pictures of the hand-soldered method, so something may be better than nothing. Peter offers videos explaining this method. Video #1. Video #2.

BCM is super easy - just a single 240R 1w 0.1% resister is needed here.

83893
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The MCM is a bit tricky due to the close proximity of eight 1k 0.25w 0.1% resistors. Care must be taken to ensure that none of the resistor leads touch one another (or other terminals on the board).

Another complication is lack of headroom. There is about 3/8" of height to work with. The underside of the MCM/BCM covers appear to be lined with insulating material, however I wanted to make sure my work didn't rub that either.

Note that Peter utilizes mini resistors for the MCM. Those are available at most electronics supply stores. I started soldering the standard size resistors before seeing his videos, so that's what I used.

83894



I used a bit of shrinkwrap to add a little additional protection for resistor leads, however there just isn't a lot of room to work with (especially using standard sized resistors).

83895


83896
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,446 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Subframe finished up. We attached the rear two packs to the subframe outside of the car. Each is held on with at least two bolts on each end. Barring a catastrophic accident, these packs are going nowhere.

84043


84044


84045



We're starting to wire the packs to the junction board now.

84046
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
Beautiful work!
 

·
Engine-Off-Coast
Joined
·
1,655 Posts
I worked on it til like 4:30 AM last night, got everything hooked up. I am getting a few DTCs and IMA light. I did trick it to starting off the IMA once, but have not tried driving it. It's not charging the 12v battery right now.

84049


Any ideas?

I do want to show new junction board layout for this LTO build.

84050


84051

What you don't see anymore is lines going to bus bars. This lets the board rest right up to the batteries.

I'm going to retrofit mine to be like this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
460 Posts
You might consider sanding to bare/shiny metal the two ends of the small aluminum piece you are using at the big fuse (where the bolts/nuts are) and using some anti-oxidation paste upon and after assembly to reduce the effects of aluminum oxide formation and thus reducing conductivity over time.
 

·
Engine-Off-Coast
Joined
·
1,655 Posts
I was also thinking about that piece today and I think I'm going to just replace it with a similar piece of metal, but this time made out of copper.

I won't see the car again until tomorrow, so I can't check the sub-codes at the moment. I did read up on 1568 and I saw one of the possibilities was an issue with the BCM thermistor probes. I noticed one of the thermistors was missing and the leads were soldered together when I removed the temp wire harness from the donor IMA pack. I'll replace it with a spare I have.

1583 is something I've never heard of before. I checked 3 I IMA-related fuses up front just in case, but all of them were good.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,446 Posts
P1568 & P1449 = The missing temp thermistor is probably correct.
The car won't like a direct short.

P1583 = Motor current V phase problem.
Almost certainly an issue with the resistors soldered inside the MCM for the current hack.
I looked at the MCM picture could easily be a short going on.
What tolerance are those resistors as well?
You need 1% or better.
Are you sure they are all 1K?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The MCM resistors are 1% tolerance if I read the markings correctly. Plan to install a different thermistor harness in the next couple of days. Will closely examine the MCM connections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Swapped thermister harness with a known good part. This eliminated P1568 and P1449.

Swapped MCM with a non-modified unit and that eliminated P1583.

After resetting error codes, here's the updated obdiiC&C display:
84091

Battery light remains on.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
11,446 Posts
Do you mean the 12v ign light is still on?
If you now have a non modified MCM in place did you remove the 240R resistor from the BCM?

What is the voltage across the BCM fooler with the main switch on but car turned off?
Is the fooler led on when it should be?
Are you sure all the harness tap wires are soldered to the right points on the BCM fooler?
Is the main IMA fuse blown?
 
1 - 20 of 101 Posts
Top