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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
The BCM was also swapped with a non-modified unit. It's late here, will check BCM fooler voltage and report tomorrow. Natalya wired the fooler while I was working on the frame, so I didn't see how she did that part. She may not be able to look at the car for a while, so I will have to be a quick learn on how those connections are made once I find the appropriate thread here.

Could you confirm that this is the correct circuit diagram?
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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I didn't think to check the main switch last night, it was off hence the weird voltage amount in previous odbiiC&C screenshot.

The BCM Fooler appears to be wired correctly. I'm showing 174v across + and - with key off and main switch on.

Still getting CEL and IMA lights. I disconnected the 12v to reset and continue to see the same warnings.

84103


ODBiiC&C isn't showing an error codes:
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I could well be wrong with this stuff, BUT your SOC looks wrong. I "think" with the BCM Interceptor properly wired, you SOC should read 75. That is one thing that the BCM interceptor does. It fakes the SOC to the 75% so that the entire capacity of the big batteries can be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
These components are new to me, will see if I can find the BCM Interceptor in a moment.

If helpful, here are the connections on the BCM Fooler pcb:

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Can you send a picture of the wiring of your BCM Interceptor. The wiring of that is discussed in post #1 of this thread:

 

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BTW, the wiring of the fooler looks correct to me. I can't read the color code notation for a couple of the wires, but it is pretty hard to make an error if you follow the color code notes on the board. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm not able to find the BCM Interceptor by quick scan of the enclosure and looms. I'm unsure when/if Natalya will be able to look at this again for me, she is extremely busy.

I'm also open to pulling all this out and going back to gas only. I'd consider selling the frame and LTO packs if anyone is interested. I'm not sure what I'd need to do to revert back to gas only, but I am missing driving this car very much.
 

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Oh, you will work it out, and you'll love it when you do.:)

It is pretty easy to make hookup errors with any of it, but from the OBDII C&C display, I'm just a bit suspicious of the hookup, particularly of the jumper wires on J3 of the Interceptor. I initially made errors myself with the J3 jumper wires. I just connected pin 1, 2 and 4 with a small wire, and mine works fine.

I don't think anything really prevents you from going back to gas only and leaving all the LTO stuff in place if you just turn off the battery switch and unplug the BCM plugs. SOMEONE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG???

That would allow you to drive your car while you have time to get the installation sorted out.

The BCM Interceptor is a small board, about 2"x2". It should be installed somewhere in the harness in front of the BCM and MCM boxes. You can recognize it from the picture in the Mini-BCM Interceptor thread I cited.

I think Peter is on holiday so he may be slow to respond. Maybe he is keeping in contact - don't really know.
 

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If helpful, here are the connections on the BCM Fooler pcb:
Are either of you aware that to get the most out of a 180V LTO pack a couple of extra resistors need to be installed. Refer to posts #34 and #41 (Another LTO Conversion Thread). I believe the gist is: A 10k resistor added into the orange vpin wire between MCM B16 & BCM C9 equals a faked 10% voltage reduction, and 1x10k in the vpin wire MCM connector B pin 16) = 10% reduction.

For 20k fooler matrix a 1x20k in the vpin wire MCM connector B pin 16) = 10% reduction.
For either 10k or 20k Fooler matrix then 1 X 10k in the Fooler positive feed
 

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Yes minor4326, I'm aware of that, but that isn't her current problem. She will probably need to add the 10k resistors, but the system should be performing without warning lights if the pack is at 180V as shown on her dash gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Here's most of the BCM/MCM wiring harness. Mis-named the BCM "MCM", disregard that.

I don't see a BCM Interceptor anywhere. Could that be the issue?
 

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I watched the video a few times and you're right - I didn't see an interceptor. The SOC on your OBDII C&C also makes it look like that if there is one it isn't performing correctly. Quite possible there isn't one, but I'd kinda have to touch stuff to see for myself. I DO see a "faked" battery temp of 20C, so confusingly that looks like there IS one somewhere in the circuit. ( or maybe the stock probes are just reading the battery temp when you took the OBDII C&C photo) I am still thinking there is one somewhere and that the jumpers on the J3 plug aren't connected correctly, but I'm kinda guessing.

I think two of the boards you pointed to are remnants of the Genesis charging system. The smaller one in the corner is the charger fan control, as you correctly identified, and the larger one is the temperature measurement board I "think." Not sure what function they are to serve in the conversion.

Let's hope that Peter sees this all soon. He invented all the fooler/interceptor stuff and is worlds away more qualified than I am.

From what I could see, I think the fooler is wired correctly but the interceptor question is still baffling me.

Sorry not to be of more help.:(
 

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The BCM was also swapped with a non-modified unit.
I thought you only modified the MCM. Right??

Try turning the IMA battery switch off and unplugging all the BCM plugs. This should put you back into bypass mode and turn off the battery light so that you can drive the car. Obviously, you will still have CE light and IMA light as with normal bypass.

I have to admit that I'm pretty much lost at this point. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Found this laying on the shop floor a second ago. Could this be a custom/homemade BCM Interceptor?
I can pull the tape off the back if we need to see that side.

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I have no idea what that is, but it isn't a Mini BCM Interceptor. It is some sort of circuit built up on a prototype board, not one of Peter's circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yeah, just checked out the BCM Interceptor thread and that one does not use a relay, like this one has.

Hopefully Peter will see this thread when he's back on IC. I will try unplugging the BCM/MCM and leaving main switch off for the time being.
 

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I think that if you do as you suggested above, you will be back in bypass mode and that will get the red battery light off. If you get that light off, then you can drive the car and not get stalled on the road.

Off to bed:)
 

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I assume Natalya will chip as to whether a BCM Interceptor is fitted..

For now use the obdiic&c menu to set the car in SCS mode which should make the dash error lights flash. Video the cel and ima light for several minutes and post the video.
Try and work out the blink codes..

Your static pack voltage is high so John's point about that might be correct and the car might not be liking that at turn on. However do the above video then report back.
 

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For what it's worth, I've routinely charged my 6 block pack to 180V and caused no warning lights. At that starting voltage, there will be no regen until the voltage gets down to 174-176V. Just my personal experience. Certainly the optimal range of the pack and the range the BCM wants to see are different. I haven't even gotten the time to install the 10K resistors yet.

Different BCM versions might cause different behavior ??
 
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