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Discussion Starter #1
Trip Segment:

Start: Langhorne PA
End: Conshohocken PA

Average Speed 50-55MPH
Tire Pressure: 50.0 as mesaure by digital gauge
Temp 72 Degrees F
Wind 0-5 knots from the North
4 Brand new OEM LRR tires
1 passenger side fender skirt slightly flapping in the breeze
No drafting.
Used Pulse and Glide and Roller Coaster Techniques


When I pulled into the parking lot I thought I had acheived the holy grail of CVT hypermiling my FCD read 80.1. After turning off the car then forcing the FCD to update (double press) she dropped to 79.9 :oops:

[mod edit, MIMA discussions are no longer maintained on this forum. See:
"MIMA gets booted off IC" sticky post in the Mod & Tech forum]

Thanks
-Jonathan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Return Trip - Trip Average 75.9MPG over 52.2 Miles

Nothing really changed on the return trip. Mileage dropped a bit
(75.9) but still very respectable. Averaged more like 50MPH speedwise. But Hey at 2:00pm the turnpike is empty.

Peace out and much love
-Jonathan
 

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Re: Return Trip - Trip Average 75.9MPG over 52.2 Miles

Nothing really changed on the return trip. Mileage dropped a bit
(75.9) but still very respectable. Averaged more like 50MPH speedwise.
Well done!

Fred
 

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You didn't say what brand and if you used Prem or Reg fuel. Or if your tank was full or not. OEM air filter or K&N? Only one person in the vehicle during this trip? These are all factors that can effect fuel mileage. But 80 mpg is fantastic! The best I've had in my CVT is 71.2 mpg.
 

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In the MT version, a trick for increasing MPG is to shift into a lower gear (third, or even second) when going up hill. The engine runs faster and the instantaneous mileage goes down a bit, but it keeps you out of assist.

The theory is that you maximize economy by staying out of assist.
 

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Charging the IMA pack up is only free if you have to use the brakes, otherwise you take an efficiency hit of about 40 percent. Switching to a lower gear does create losses due to pumping and running at a higher RPM, but the loss is not as great. Staying out of assist is one of the key techniques for hypermiling. However if you know that there is a long downhill stretch ahead where you will need the brakes, then it is expedient to burn off a little electric power.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
b1shmu63 said:
Charging the IMA pack up is only free if you have to use the brakes, otherwise you take an efficiency hit of about 40 percent. Switching to a lower gear does create losses due to pumping and running at a higher RPM, but the loss is not as great. Staying out of assist is one of the key techniques for hypermiling. However if you know that there is a long downhill stretch ahead where you will need the brakes, then it is expedient to burn off a little electric power.
I agree that in theory you never want to be in assist OR regen. In practice though, and when using pulse/glide and rollercoater techniques, assist is being used for short bursts (2 seconds tops).

Its throttle priority that really makes it hard to use assist for longer bursts without chewing up fuel from the ICE. My instaneous FE is never above 55 when the assist light is on.

I will give 'S mode hill climbing' a shot. It will be easy for me to do an A-B comparison on my commute. I will monitor my instaneous FE while using 'S' mode and 'D' mode and see what happens.

-Jonathan
 

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Congradulations on your amazing CVT milleage. I'm sure there are many CVT owners out there who will benefit from your tests and observations.
 

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b1shmu63 said:
Charging the IMA pack up is only free if you have to use the brakes, otherwise you take an efficiency hit of about 40 percent.
Not true as going down hill without using the brakes charges the batteries also.
 

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Start: Langhorne PA
End: Conshohocken PA
Average Speed 50-55MPH
Tire Pressure: 50.0 as mesaure by digital gauge
Temp 72 Degrees F
Wind 0-5 knots from the North
4 Brand new OEM LRR tires
Used Pulse and Glide and Roller Coaster Techniques

... I had acheived the holy grail of CVT hypermiling my FCD read 80.1 ... she dropped to 79.9 ...
If I'm not mistaken, you haven't had the car too long, and if so, as good as you're doing now, wait until you gain a few months experience with it. As good as you're doing now, odds are that over the same route, you'll be going a lot better in the months and years to come.

Again, best of luck with the car!

Fred
 

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Yeah, and don't get all despondant this fall when the temperature starts to drop and you're struggling to try keep your LMPG number up!
 

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Great job!

How much difference in mpg can be expected with a K&N filter?
 

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dc4all said:
How much difference in mpg can be expected with a K&N filter?
None. I used one for a year and never noticed an increase in mpg. Although, because the engine could breath better at wide open throttle I got more pep at freeway speeds.
 

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At ~4000 miles, I'm getting around 48-53 mpg, mostly combined slab and city. Driving on the South FL slabs - especially in the Scootr - doesn't lend itself to going 55-60, so I feel pretty good about the performance of the Little Beast. I only burn regular, and it's mostly with one person onboard. Will be trying Royal Purple 0-10 Synthetic next oil change (which I'm doing myself, as sure enough - dealer overfilled llast change). Will keep you posted.
 

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scootr06 said:
Will be trying Royal Purple 0-10 Synthetic next oil change (which I'm doing myself, as sure enough - dealer overfilled llast change). Will keep you posted.
I'd be "worried" that the 10 is too thin especially in south Florida. Possible rapid wear could ocurr. Try the recommended oil viscosity range of 0W-20 in whatever synthetic you prefer.
 

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0-10 weight Royal Purple Synthetic Oil VS 10-20 Honda

Hi John K. Bullock ....
Thx for the feedback. Regarding my mention of using 0-10 weight Royal Purple Synthetic Oil, I studied the Royal web site and took particular note of the following....."XPR 0W10 Racing 9 is an ultra-light viscosity motor oil formulated for gasoline engines used in drag racing, motorcycle sprint racing, etc. This product was added to our catalog on Tuesday 28 March, 2006."

Just introduced - I seemed to me that if the oil could survive under these horrendous racing conditions - it'd do OK in my 60 ci Scootr engine?
Your thoughts, plz.
 

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Complex question Scootr06.

But for my money I would NOT use a thinner oil. While "racing" applications do withstand "severe" conditions its short term compaired to "the street". Nor do those engines last much more than 1-2 races without extensive rebuilding.

But its your car and money. There _may_ be a _slight_ MPG "improvement" with the lower pumping losses for a thinner oil, but I doubt you be able to see it on the street. All the gasoline cost saving advantage will be lost should mechanical wear increase more that a few single percentage points.

HTH! :)
 
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