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Okay, after reading a bit more into all of this FIC and factory wiring, I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to run either a factory wideband or the AEM UEGO o2 sensor and tune off of that and spit out a signal that will make the vehicle happy.

I'm going to dig some more and get a better understanding of what all is at work at the moment. Hopefully be able to point you into a direction that will make sense.

Also throwing in a couple reference documents for later.
 

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Oh, I have a question about your oil return line. What size are you running to the pan? Curious for future reference for myself.
 

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OKAY, finally home to check out your calibration you sent over. I think you have the O2 sensor wired in just fine for what you want to do.. I THINK you just need to make some small changes, Get the UEGO wired into the AEM unit for tuning and monitoring while driving if you want and you should be off to the races. I found a good thread over on another forum that will apply to the lil insight just fine, just less a cylinder. HERE Read it a few times before you go into modifying anything. A real proper set of fuel injectors with dead times and voltage offsets will allow finer tuning and probably help some minor headaches with drive ability. I think the problem is how the load calculations are setup.

I would try setting it up as outlined in that thread that is linked and report back. Hopefully you wont have to retune too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Oh, I have a question about your oil return line. What size are you running to the pan? Curious for future reference for myself.
I'm using a -8AN line for return and -4 for feed. I always like my drain twice the size of the feed so I know it will never back up and blow the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
OKAY, finally home to check out your calibration you sent over. I think you have the O2 sensor wired in just fine for what you want to do.. I THINK you just need to make some small changes, Get the UEGO wired into the AEM unit for tuning and monitoring while driving if you want and you should be off to the races. I found a good thread over on another forum that will apply to the lil insight just fine, just less a cylinder. HERE Read it a few times before you go into modifying anything. A real proper set of fuel injectors with dead times and voltage offsets will allow finer tuning and probably help some minor headaches with drive ability. I think the problem is how the load calculations are setup.

I would try setting it up as outlined in that thread that is linked and report back. Hopefully you wont have to retune too much.
I have seen that guide and tried to follow it, however I can't hold rpm at 3000 to get o2 voltage>AFR table because of the fluctuation in AFR. I'm going to bed now (it's about 0350) but I'll be up in a few hours working on things. I'll update you as I make progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
I know it's been a couple days, but I thought I would give an update. I figured if I solved the afr issue or not, I was gonna swap the turbo . So I decided to do that first, and then chase the afr issue. Well, I swapped the turbo and now I don't have the AFR issue anymore. I think the turbo was just legitimately too small for my engine, it couldn't move enough air so it was choking the engine out, and the ECU was freaking out. It runs miles better than it did, and is much, much more enjoyable to drive. I have the wastegate set to only 4psi, and it doesn't make almost any boost until about 2500rpm. So city/eco driving around town is completely unaffected, but if I want to put my foot down, I do get that extra oomph from the turbo. I wish I had gone with this setup from the beginning, but alas, here we are.

Also, Mario payed me a visit today, and I now have Pegasus installed in my insight! It's so cool! Just another bit to make my insight that much more unique. I love being able to watch my IAT's from the cluster, instead of having to have my phone up with Torque on. It's also extremely nice to actually have a linear battery, assist and charge gauge. I'm absolutely loving where the car is at now.

[Edit]: I still need to hook up the AFR gauge to the AEM unit, that's on my list of things to do today. I grabbed the wiring harness for it from my workshop when I was there swapping the turbo. I also didn't post any pics of the new turbo setup, because it looks exactly the same. It's just got a bigger exhaust and compressor turbine.
 
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I would not have guessed that, very interesting. Glad to see you are getting it all sorted
 

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I forgot,.................... what was the turbo that you replaced?
Never mind, I found it. You answered your own problem on the first post. (TOO SMALL OF A TURBO)
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I forgot,.................... what was the turbo that you replaced?
Never mind, I found it. You answered your own problem on the first post. (TOO SMALL OF A TURBO)
Yea I just wanted to see how small someone could really go on a turbo on one of these cars, I guess we know now!

I would not have guessed that, very interesting. Glad to see you are getting it all sorted
It makes sense that it might be the issue, if the turbo can't provide enough air under heavy throttle but just out of boost, it would choke the engine. But thanks for all your help either way!
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Got a pic of your Intake air filter?
No, but I'll take one for you when I get off work tonight.

[Edit]: Willie, your turbo is water cooled right? If so, where are you getting the water from? I want to water cool mine for longevity reasons. On that thought, does water always flow through the heater core lines? I know there is some sort of valve on it, so I don't know if water always flows through it. If so, I can just use the heater core lines to cool the turbo.
 

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If you were to tap into the heater circuit between the engine and shut off valve then you would have water flow all the time. No idea how much of an impact it would have on heater capacity. On the k series it was easy to "repurpose" the throttle body coolant lines as turbo water lines for the sidewinder style manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
If you were to tap into the heater circuit between the engine and shut off valve then you would have water flow all the time. No idea how much of an impact it would have on heater capacity. On the k series it was easy to "repurpose" the throttle body coolant lines as turbo water lines for the sidewinder style manifolds.
I thought about doing exactly that for the throttle body lines, but that would require to water lines to be run from the front to back of the engine. More chances of stuff chafing.
 

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Mine is like Drtye said. In the heater valve circuit. No problems encountered. Heater still works as needed.
 

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I'm not saying not to do it, but the first turbo (ISI) I had on my Miata went over 150K with NO water lines. It didn't fail, I just re-did the system. The new turbo is water cooled.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I'm not saying not to do it, but the first turbo (ISI) I had on my Miata went over 150K with NO water lines. It didn't fail, I just re-did the system. The new turbo is water cooled.

Sam
The only reason I'm considering it, is I have to re-reoute my heater lines anyway. I want more room in that area, and I don't want the heater lines chafing on anything. Figured I might as well just cool the turbo with water if I'm going to go through the trouble of re-routing the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
@Willie Williford, here are the intake pics you asked for. I cannot, for the life of me, get a decent pic from the top. It's a K&N RC-1060 just clamped straight to the turbo inlet. I plan on doing something more once I get the front mount installed, thus the space the intercooler is taking up will be freed, so I can put on a bigger filter. I'll try to get better pics of the entire setup from below once I have it up in the air again (Sunday).
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
Triple post but, idc, my thread. I also got the wideband hooked up to the ECU finally, so I can datalog.

I just made a TON of changes to the OP based on stuff I have changed/learned.
 
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