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Discussion Starter #1
I need an IMA battery for my 2000 M/T, light went on with code 1447.

1.Does anybody know the verbage or can post the Technical Service Bulletin from 3/16/11 (either 04-028 or 06-057) to address whether the battery can be replaced without replacing the MCM and BCM??
2.Can somebody confirm the correct part numbers to be the most current?
3. The dealer did not put the car in my name when I purchased it and just found out about some catalytical converter bulletin requiring ECM replacement (TSB 07-038). Is it possible replacing the ECM can make the IMA battery light issue go away?

My second IMA battery is out of warranty. A Honda dealer will pay for 30% but only if I get both the battery (1D100-PHM-305RM) and Repair Kit 06060PHM-307 which they claim is both the MCM and BCM). Bottom line about $3400. When I asked about replacing just the battery they said TSB 04-028 and 06-057 were superceded on 3/16/11 service bulletin MANDATING all three must be replaced in for 2000.
I have looked into the BetterBattery from HBR but have not been successful in finding a mechanic to install for me. Called at least 5 shops. They claim it can only be done by the dealer because it must be 'programmed' and somebody would have to be 'subscribed' to Honda software. Seems contrary to posts on this forum but I can't MAKE a shop do it.

All thoughts appreciated!

Kathie
 

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1) Honda will require the replacement of the BCM and MCM.
2) When I get home I can, but you don't want the most current modules anyway; they lower fuel economy.
3) No, it will not make the IMA light go away; this fixes incessant P0420 errors which result in a CEL.

It is my sincere recomendation to tell the Honda dealership to go pound sand. $3400 is absolutely ridiculous when you could have a BetterBattery installed for a thousand dollars less.

The shops you've called are all clueless. Sigh. Removing and reinstalling the battery is about as trivial as changing brakes. Will someone please help her out? Where are you located? I will if I'm at all close.
 

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I need an IMA battery for my 2000 M/T, light went on with code 1447.

1.Does anybody know the verbage or can post the Technical Service Bulletin from 3/16/11 (either 04-028 or 06-057) to address whether the battery can be replaced without replacing the MCM and BCM??
2.Can somebody confirm the correct part numbers to be the most current?
3. The dealer did not put the car in my name when I purchased it and just found out about some catalytical converter bulletin requiring ECM replacement (TSB 07-038). Is it possible replacing the ECM can make the IMA battery light issue go away?

My second IMA battery is out of warranty. A Honda dealer will pay for 30% but only if I get both the battery (1D100-PHM-305RM) and Repair Kit 06060PHM-307 which they claim is both the MCM and BCM). Bottom line about $3400. When I asked about replacing just the battery they said TSB 04-028 and 06-057 were superceded on 3/16/11 service bulletin MANDATING all three must be replaced in for 2000.
I have looked into the BetterBattery from HBR but have not been successful in finding a mechanic to install for me. Called at least 5 shops. They claim it can only be done by the dealer because it must be 'programmed' and somebody would have to be 'subscribed' to Honda software. Seems contrary to posts on this forum but I can't MAKE a shop do it.

All thoughts appreciated!

Kathie
Kathie,

We only charge $1800 for a BetterBattery. Please feel free to call or write for more info, including detailed instructions on how to install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Eli!
Another dealer did offer to replace just the IMA battery for approx $3000, but no discount, and no promise that they can do it w/o the other parts.

No I don't want lower fuel economy but seems like an older battery that's been sitting around for years may not be good either... But pls send the TSR info and advise. Thanks for the help! I will still try to find a shop willing to put in the BetterBattery.

I'm in Atlanta... you are not at all close in Santa Fe but thanks for offering. Wish you were here!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did call today, but it's afterhours. Nope, I'm not up to that, I'd probably fry myself, but I still am pursuing finding someone and will call tomorrow.
Thanks.
 

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Ron, she can't install it herself. She will need a shop or someone to help her install it which is understandable. This really shouldn't be this hard.. Just please, please do not spend so much money on an inferior Honda battery.

We have knowledgable folks in the Atlanta area here, don't we?
 

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Will I see a drop in mpg in my 2001 cvt with a new battery and both modules being updated?
With a 19 lmpg, anything you do will only increase your fuel efficiency :)

Some have reported a slight loss of fuel efficiency with the latest BCM and MCM versions, but I didn't notice any decrease. The changes were made to increase the IMA battery life which I appreciate. Assist and regen behavior will change, though. The new versions attempt to keep the battery charge level around 70% by making assist more aggressive when the charge level is above 70% and regen more aggressive when the charge level is below 70%.

I certainly wouldn't pay to have old versions replaced by new versions, but I wouldn't avoid having an IMA battery replaced under warranty by Honda to avoid the updates (Honda won't replace an IMA battery under warranty without updating the BCM and MCM to the latest versions).
 

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My battery was still under warranty last year. It needed replaced. My dealership said they would replace the battery plus MCM under warranty but the BCM would cost money. I told them to just replace the battery and they did.

I tried telling them that was BS but I really did not want the new MCM and BCM anyway.
 

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Changing the battery in the car can be done in under 2 hours, by one person, with proper planning. No special tools required (8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets, T30 torx bit, I think, is all thats required). Any shop should be able to do this. Problem is that so many of them are afraid of this newfangled hybrid ****, with the big scary battery and the exaggerated warnings that going into the IPU cover could kill you. Anyone with even a cursory knowledge of how electricity works should be able to safely do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Changing the battery in the car can be done in under 2 hours, by one person, with proper planning. No special tools required (8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets, T30 torx bit, I think, is all thats required). Any shop should be able to do this. Problem is that so many of them are afraid of this newfangled hybrid ****, with the big scary battery and the exaggerated warnings that going into the IPU cover could kill you. Anyone with even a cursory knowledge of how electricity works should be able to safely do this.
HELP! My Check Engine light came up driving to work and with a 20 mile trip home. Will it make it without disconnecting the BCM?? There is an Autozone about 10 min away-- should I have them recheck the code and see if they can disconnect it?
If that sounds like the best option, rather than towing it home or to dealer, can somebody give explicit directions for me to give to Autozone on how to disconnect?

While it may seem simple to you, I will not attempt that and, once again I can't MAKE a shop do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My battery was still under warranty last year. It needed replaced. My dealership said they would replace the battery plus MCM under warranty but the BCM would cost money. I told them to just replace the battery and they did.

I tried telling them that was BS but I really did not want the new MCM and BCM anyway.
Is there a way to check the BCM/MCM and see if they are functioning ok? The dealer I went to said they could 'try' to replace only the IMA battery, so I presume they did not check the BCM/MCM functioning.
 

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Dont be too worried about the CEL. Take it to autozone, pull the code and share it here. CELs are not something that means catastrophic failure is imminent, generally. Its probably a p0420,or an ima code. If its an ima code, the ima light will usually also be on. As long as the red 12v battery light stays off, you'll be fine.
 

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No need to be alarmed at the check engine light. Just get to Autozone at your convenience to pull the code and post it here. Probably P0420.
 

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Is there a way to check the BCM/MCM and see if they are functioning ok? The dealer I went to said they could 'try' to replace only the IMA battery, so I presume they did not check the BCM/MCM functioning.
They are functioning OK unless there are codes related to them.

OK, here's the deal with a dealership. They WILL install a battery that you purchase separately for you. They do NOT need to know that the cells inside the battery are aftermarket. They will not be able to tell. What they don't know won't hurt them.

Purchase a BetterBattery. When it comes in, call a dealership and say that you have an IMA battery that you purchased with your own money that needs to be installed. I seriously doubt that they will balk at this. Again, they do not need to know anything about the battery, and from the outside it will look just like a Honda battery. I seriously doubt they will catch the different colored heat shrink tubing around the cells. It's not like these mechanics see Insights all day long. Even if they do, they will not bring it up - for all they know that's just the color of a new battery. I doubt they'll even peer into the cracks of the battery.

It might also be good to post a thread asking for Atlanta area peeps to come out of the woodwork. But I think a dealership installing the battery is your best bet.

The previous owner of Insight #2 did exactly this. They purchased a battery with their own money and the dealership charged $300 to install it(which is a rip off, but whatever). Again, they will not be able to tell that the BetterBattery is not a genuine Honda battery; the only difference is the cells inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No need to be alarmed at the check engine light. Just get to Autozone at your convenience to pull the code and post it here. Probably P0420.
I remember seeing a post here of someone going from a 1447(just IMA light) to 1449 (IMA+CEL) with continued driving, and 1449 was the imminent failure. I'd love to get a Betterbattery but do not want to mislead anyone. The dealer battery has come down to $2100, of course inferior, according to many posters here, to the BetterBattery. I REALLY just want to get the car fixed so I feel safe.
I will go to Autozone and update you.
 

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It's possible to drive for many months or even years with a P1449 error. It just means the battery has failed. As racer26 says, there is nothing to worry about unless the 12V battery light comes on.

madmanmostafa here from the forums had a battery so weak that it would not work properly at all, yet he had been driving the car like this for many months. The DC-DC converter does not stop working under most circumstances.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No need to be alarmed at the check engine light. Just get to Autozone at your convenience to pull the code and post it here. Probably P0420.
Just as I suspected it is now pulling the 1449 in addition to the 1447 since the CEL came on. I thought I read unless you disconnect the BCM the car will fail w/i 20 miles. I've already driven 15 and have another 20 to get home. Thoughts???
 

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As long as the red 12V battery light on the dash does not come on, you are fine to drive the car indefinitely.

Again, it is not typical for the DC-DC to stop working when the IMA light comes on.

IF the light comes on, then you may have 20-30 miles.
 

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P1449 and P1447 indicate an IMA battery in need of replacement/repair/attention.

You will be fine to drive the car indefinitely as long as the red 12V battery light stays off. I drove my insight for 4 weeks with a dead IMA system. Be aware that the 12V battery and BRAKE lights could come on if you rev the engine over 4000 rpm. They will go out again in 30 seconds or so. This is nothing to be concerned about either.

I further agree with Eli's recommendation of getting the BetterBattery and taking it to a dealership to have it installed (unless of course someone local who can help comes out of the woodwork in the meantime). As it is a Honda battery that's had the internal cells replaced, they're unlikely to notice any difference at all, and even if they did, would likely assume it was normal.

The BetterBattery's are MUCH better than the Honda ones (its speculated that the Honda ones are old stock thats been sitting around deteriorating on the shelf for a while, and are thusly bad value to begin with), the BetterBattery has proven in testing to be superior to a brand new Honda battery, in every measurable way. They're also cheaper, to the tune of $600-800, depending on just how bad the stealership wants to soak you for a Honda battery.

Disconnecting the BCM is easy to do yourself with the right tools, (8mm, 10mm sockets, T30 Torx bit), if it becomes necessary (which is unlikely). Course, that puts you about 60% of the way to changing the battery yourself.
 
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