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Ok, new here and new to insight. I sold my 03 civic hybrid 5 speed last month and have regretted it ever since so I figured this time, why not get the even better mpg insight.
Little back story, I never had a grid charger on my civic BUT I did driving easy on the battery(never let it peg the charge meter, etc..). Loved that car, wouldn't have I'm sure if the was the automatic though.
Ok. So my question, does anyone know who's (or this design) grid charger? How do I use it? I mean I obviously plug it in but does it discharge then charge on it's own? Also, I keep reading about checking the voltage, where do I check the voltage?
The guy I got it from said he put his sisters battery out of her 2010 in it? I thought they were different? Could that be why it seems to desert itself(calibrate? Sorry. Few drinks in, can't rremember the termaknowladgy, when it goes from low battery to full) a lot? Before I plugged it up last night, I had zero IMA. I charged it last night. Maybe 12 hours. I have now read charge u till it goes to 175v.
Sorry for the newb questions, not new to IMA but am very new to grid chargers, etc..

Side note, it amazes me how different the IMA seems to work in this vs the civic, I was assuming they were identical, not even close
 

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Looks like a homemade version,but well designed,,somebody knew what they were doing,,,grid charge 24-28 hours straight,,if it tops out at 175 around 23 hours and doesn't move up anymore go 2 to 4 hours more and call it done. There a ton of varying discussions. Use the search box .
 

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Looks like a homemade version,but well designed,,somebody knew what they were doing,,,grid charge 24-28 hours straight,,if it tops out at 175 around 23 hours and doesn't move up anymore go 2 to 4 hours more and call it done. There a ton of varying discussions. Use the search box .
I been searching forever lol. Where do I check the voltage? I can't even seem to find that information lol
 

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Go to the box enter battery grid charge but not longer working,,post will come up s Keith is the second one on post ,there's a picture of the bcm connector and which wires to check ,,use the google custom search box,,it's your freind.
 

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Did you buy a G1 or a G2 or a G3.?
 

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Go to the box enter battery grid charge but not longer working,,post will come up s Keith is the second one on post ,there's a picture of the bcm connector and which wires to check ,,use the google custom search box,,it's your freind.
I'll search that, thank you
Did you buy a G1 or a G2 or a G3.?
I'm not sure? It's a 2000 5 speed insight?
 

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The crazy part is the insight got as good of mileage with NO IMA as my civic did with IMA working and I got way better than most civic hybrid owners did, mpg with my civic. I averaged 47mpg on my civic, yesterday driving home i averaged 56mpg with no IMA. My best on the civic was 61mpg to work but that was keeping a constant look and driving as fuel economic as possible
I think the gearing is different or something or maybe there isn't as much assist on the insight. The civic felt much peppier and would pull a hill in fifth with ease where the insight doesnt(but the civic had cruise, the insight doesnt). The insight being much lighter you would think the opposite. Fifth gear in the insight is LONG winded
 

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I have searched for the post honda_hybrid442 referenced but cant find it. I had the grid charger charging for around 28 hours and the IMA charge indicator was still at 3 bars. Not sure if thats normal or not though. Still cant figure out exactly where to monitor voltage. Maybe Im not good at searching??
 

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I have searched for the post honda_hybrid442 referenced but cant find it. I had the grid charger charging for around 28 hours and the IMA charge indicator was still at 3 bars. Not sure if thats normal or not though. Still cant figure out exactly where to monitor voltage. Maybe Im not good at searching??
Are you talking about the charge indicator on the dash of the car? If so, that isn't accurate at all during grid charging. After the battery is left full after the last grid charge, the car will have to do a recalibration cycle before the gauge is accurate. For that drive the car for 5 minutes.
 

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Are you talking about the charge indicator on the dash of the car? If so, that isn't accurate at all during grid charging. After the battery is left full after the last grid charge, the car will have to do a recalibration cycle before the gauge is accurate. For that drive the car for 5 minutes.
Yes sir, thank you for that. Answered perfectly about the charge indicator.

I was also asking where to physically put my meter to read the state of charge at the battery(or grid charger itself so I dont have to remove covers)

I am still confused about the battery though, the guy I bought it from said he installed a 2010 battery, I thought that couldnt be done(or atleast not done without modifications??)

Lastly, can you look at my grid charger and tell if it has a discharger also??
 

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Your charger is a homebuilt, but looks to be a good quality build, but missing a meter. (I'd try to determine the output to the IMA and add a cheap meter.) The one power supply with visible writing looks to be a Meanwell, which is a quality brand. Apparently you have a voltmeter. There are two fairly easy places to probe for the battery voltage. First, tract out the two (likely) conductors which go to the IMA battery. If you can locate a bare terminal on the charger board for these two conductors, then test the voltage there. A bit less convenient, but tract the connection of the charge wires to the battery relay board itself. You can measure the voltage where the wires are connected to the relay board, the big black plastic board on the left side of the battery. One of the power supplies should be a 12V supply to power the fan. The other power supplies outputs are wired in series to add up to something like 180-190V unloaded by the battery.

You have no discharge capability shown in your picture, so you have grid charge only - better than nothing at all:)

Later: The guy must mean that he installed the battery in year 2010. I can't envision how he would have installed a model year 2010 battery. As you say, that would be from a gen2 insight, would be lower voltage and would require a lot of modifications. Sooner or later you are going to have to remove the cover and double check what it going on and how the charger is connected.

Does the cooling fan run during grid charging? That is essential for keeping the battery sticks cool during charge. You should be able to hear it come on when you connect the charger.
 

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Your charger is a homebuilt, but looks to be a good quality build, but missing a meter. (I'd try to determine the output to the IMA and add a cheap meter.) The one power supply with visible writing looks to be a Meanwell, which is a quality brand. Apparently you have a voltmeter. There are two fairly easy places to probe for the battery voltage. First, tract out the two (likely) conductors which go to the IMA battery. If you can locate a bare illterminal on the charger board for these two conductors, then test the voltage there. A bit less convenient, but tract the connection of the charge wires to the battery relay board itself. You can measure the voltage where the wires are connected to the relay board, the big black plastic board on the left side of the battery. One of the power supplies should be a 12V supply to power the fan. The other power supplies outputs are wired in series to add up to something like 180-190V unloaded by the battery.

You have no discharge capability shown in your picture, so you have grid charge only - better than nothing at all


Later: The guy must mean that he installed the battery in year 2010. I can't envision how he would have installed a model year 2010 battery. As you say, that would be from a gen2 insight, would be lower voltage and would require a lot of modifications. Sooner or later you are going to have to remove the cover and double check what it going on and how the charger is connected.

Does the cooling fan run during grid charging? That is essential for keeping the battery sticks cool during charge. You should be able to hear it come on when you connect the charger.
Yes sir, the cooling fan comes on. It has it's own plug so I can see which cable is for charging and which cable for the fan so I can figure out which to check voltage at.

About the battery, he said his sister had a 2010(may have been a civic?) Honda hybrid with CVT. The CVT went bad and he got the battery out of that, is what I was told anyway. He told me I could veriftwith part numbers if I wanted. This is all his word though, he says actually the one to recommend insightcentral
 

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About the battery, he said his sister had a 2010(may have been a civic?) Honda hybrid with CVT. The CVT went bad and he got the battery out of that, is what I was told anyway. He told me I could veriftwith part numbers if I wanted. This is all his word though, he says actually the one to recommend insightcentral
OK, that makes a little more sense. Apparently he installed the Civic sticks into an Insight battery case - since you are using the word "reconditioned." That would probably work without mods.

BTW, using the approach that Honda hybrid 442 suggested, which I had never used, you can measure the total battery voltage between pins 9 and 10 on the BCM C plug, but you have to have the lid off.

This ref to a S Keith post shows where the pins are located:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-1st-gen-discussion/94562-question-concerning-old-battery-conditioning.html#post1061778

The BCM is the left hand aluminum box on top of battery and the C plug is the one on the rear of the box. You will need thin sharp meter leads to reach into the conductors. I filed and sharpened a set of cheap Harbor Freight leads.

Spend some time reading through the links shown in S Keith signature block, particularly the one about stick level reconditioning. The man knows his stuff;)
 

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I actually have a new prolong grid charger and discharger that I used a grand total of two times before someone hit my insight in a parking lot this summer and totaled it. Did it's job of helping to recondition my battery (though a bit pricey because I bought directly from the manufscturer). For the Insight, you'll want to get one (we can talk if you want mine, as it's sitting in my basement - I bought a PHEV Clarity as a replacement) or make one. There are several threads on this board on how to make them.
 

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The only sticks that can be physically interchanged are G1 Insight, 03-05 Civic and 05-07 Accord.

06+ HCH and G2 insight are 2 sticks welded together. Interchanging them with G1 Insight/03-05 HCH would be a major pain requiring welding and fabrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, that makes a little more sense. Apparently he installed the Civic sticks into an Insight battery case - since you are using the word "reconditioned." That would probably work without mods.

BTW, using the approach that Honda hybrid 442 suggested, which I had never used, you can measure the total battery voltage between pins 9 and 10 on the BCM C plug, but you have to have the lid off.

This ref to a S Keith post shows where the pins are located:

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/honda-insight-forum-1st-gen-discussion/94562-question-concerning-old-battery-conditioning.html#post1061778

The BCM is the left hand aluminum box on top of battery and the C plug is the one on the rear of the box. You will need thin sharp meter leads to reach into the conductors. I filed and sharpened a set of cheap Harbor Freight leads.

Spend some time reading through the links shown in S Keith signature block, particularly the one about stick level reconditioning. The man knows his stuff;)
I dont think this battery was or has been reconditioned, I was told it was new. It definately holds charge better than my civic did, thats for sure. I am still trying to figure out exactly what my plans are.
I am either going to sell my good battery and go totally without the IMA OR I am going to do the mods where I can dissable the assist when I choose too(would be 5th gear for me) and regen on demand(when going down a small hill).
The area I live in will kill a hybrid battery in short order. due to terrain(hills) And since the MPG is not much different using no IMA, I may just go that route if I can sell the battery for a decent price. The car had sat for about 5 months when I purchased it(he lost his licence) so the battery was low. I did put it on the grid charger just to slowly charge it back up vs using the high amp regen the car has. Decisions, decisions. I figured it up, I would have to use the IMA for well over 200k miles before it would start saving me and thats if I baby the snot out of the car with the IMA if I ever had to purchase a new IMA battery, assuming I didnt need a new battery right after that 200K miles, thats just not worth it to me.
 

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South Boston isn't a particularly harsh environment for an IMA battery. The hills are fairly average and the temperatures are pretty typical Mid-Atlantic. You can minimize the current draw by downshifting and using lots of revs on the uphills. You'll be doing that anyway if you remove the IMA battery. The car is easier to drive with a good IMA battery, which you say you have.

You can also install a clutch switch, which will disable the IMA if and when you want. Search on "clutch switch" or "calpod" in the Google Custom Search window at top left.
 

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South Boston isn't a particularly harsh environment for an IMA battery. The hills are fairly average and the temperatures are pretty typical Mid-Atlantic. You can minimize the current draw by downshifting and using lots of revs on the uphills. You'll be doing that anyway if you remove the IMA battery. The car is easier to drive with a good IMA battery, which you say you have.

You can also install a clutch switch, which will disable the IMA if and when you want. Search on "clutch switch" or "calpod" in the Google Custom Search window at top left.
South Boston itself may not be hard on an IMA but where I live here is. Slow hills foe the first 5 miles from my house. Enough to use the battery, get to the top and you have to give it pedal to get speed back down having no regen. Very very curvy, 20 mph curves. My civic hated my area of south Boston also. And yes. Easier to drive with the IMA except by the time I get on decent roads I am normally in the auto regen state
 

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If you can tolerate not driving without assist, a clutch switch will help. It allows you to pick and choose when you wish to use the IMA. Not difficult to install, but being flexible and not wearing bifocals sure does help!
 
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