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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello fellow Insighters! I have bypassed my IMA using Mudder's Arduino Uno code and absolutely love it! (2000-2006 only) My background is working in aviation as a Sr. Avionics Technician and I'm also a Journeyman Electrician so these type of mods are easy for me to do. However, not everyone has access to the tools that are needed for this modification so that's where I come in! I will make a kit and have everything soldered, programmed, and ready for a plug and play install with no modification necessary. See below

If anyone is interested in this mod and needs help making up a kit please PM me. Works for both AT and MT 2000-2006 Honda Insights

The items needed are:

Your BCM/MCM harness (see pic below)(which doesn't need to be cut into pieces)(located forward of the battery on top)

I bought a spare harness so I can have it separate from the original, this is just my preference (see picture below) I can make your's like this if you want.

The positive and negative harness attached to your battery(see pic below)(located on the left side of the IMA battery as you are looking at it, the positive side goes to the 30AMP fuse and the negative side goes to a bus bar right next to it (I do a slight mod to the negative cable to allow for a bigger terminal ring, however I am extremely anal about my work) You won't need to send me this because I will just supply the correct hardware to mate the connections.

Arduino Uno with protective case (case is optional, but it does protect the unit) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HFSWC06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H4BKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

The original 30 AMP fuse that is on your battery will work.

All together these parts cost about $25 so that is extremely cheap if you needed to wait to purchase a new battery while still driving your Insight.

If you would like for me to build this kit and supply you with the mentioned parts as a whole kit the total would be $75 given that you send me your harness.

If you want to order a kit and don't have a harness then it will be an extra $60.

If you want me to ship out a kit ASAP before sending me out your harness then it will be $135 ($50 will be refunded once you send me your harness)

Also, if you ever decide that you want to install a battery back in your Insight you'll have to send me your harness again so I can repair the wires and put it back to blueprint. There wont be a charge for that just send me your harness and $10 to cover shipping back to you.

I hope I can help some of you guys out that want to do this modification either temporary or permanently.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
What are you willing to charge to build it '30 for parts plus labor ,,should be ready to install in folks car,
I would charge $50 for the labor, hardware, and plug and play connector, which includes shipping the parts back to the customer. However, if someone wants me to source the entire kit then I would have to come up with another number.
 

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So we send you the harness and you send back what ,arduino board in case and harness ready to be plug in,,that mite help a lot of People, you would need to set a utube install video or directions on install, can you post pictures of the correct harness,to send..
 

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If you need a spare harness to make the bypass without cutting up your own, I have a couple spares for sale if anyone is interested.
 

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I watched mudder video last night ,,will you be cleaning and soldering in the six wires and installing the code ,only thing I've read was we would need to drill the neg hole on cable end to,5/16 ,and the install would be plug and play,,are you using code 2 of mudders arduino code,,first one had idle issues ,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I watched mudder video last night ,,will you be cleaning and soldering in the six wires and installing the code ,only thing I've read was we would need to drill the neg hole on cable end to,5/16 ,and the install would be plug and play,,are you using code 2 of mudders arduino code,,first one had idle issues ,
Yes, I will be soldering the wires onto the Arduino. And its the positive cable from the DCDC inverter that needs to be opened up, not the negative. That cable is fine the way to is. I will program the Arduino with the 2nd code.
 

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Great to see someone step up for this.

Important safety issue: the fuse you're using is NOT rated to handle the break-open voltage generated in an IMA overcurrent event. It is ABSOLUTELY DANGEROUS to use this fuse in this application: during an overcurrent event the arc generated as the fuse element vaporizes might not extinguish. You need to use a fuse rated to handle at minimum 200 volts DC (DC is important, as there are no zero-crossings for arcs to extinguish).

The OEM fuse is an excellent choice... it's free, and can be enclosed in an off-the-shelf bolt-lug plastic fuse holder.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great to see someone step up for this.

Important safety issue: the fuse you're using is NOT rated to handle the break-open voltage generated in an IMA overcurrent event. It is ABSOLUTELY DANGEROUS to use this fuse in this application: during an overcurrent event the arc generated as the fuse element vaporizes might not extinguish. You need to use a fuse rated to handle at minimum 200 volts DC (DC is important, as there are no zero-crossings for arcs to extinguish).

The OEM fuse is an excellent choice... it's free, and can be enclosed in an off-the-shelf bolt-lug plastic fuse holder.
Mudder, this brings up a good point. I want to make this as easy and cheap as possible for everyone. If you think the 30A fuse is good enough and we could just use it for the application then this mod would be truly bolt on with no modification necessary. I will continuously update the original post in order to keep things in one place instead of all thrown around in the thread.
 

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Isn't this risky business because it's a violation of federal law? (Unless you only mail these to Canadians or other countries...) I wouldn't advertise this product or service without forcing customers and everyone talking about it to sign an off-road-use-only waiver unless they lived outside the USA. Even then, if you sell to people inside the USA, I'm still worried you may be in dangerous water.

Specifically, the primary purpose of the device you are selling is to "defeat" an emissions control device.

All ethics aside... I certainly think this is a responsible and environmentally friendly thing being done here, keeping these cars on the road versus modern gas guzzlers, but that doesn't mean it's legal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Natalya, this mod is meant to be for "OFF ROAD USE ONLY" and I have a disclaimer I'm going to add for anyone looking to buy it. Every company adds disclaimers to any modification to a vehicle. Go to SummitRacing.com or Jegs.com and you will see that with every non factory muffler, exhaust, fuel injectors, turbo's, superchargers, computer chips, etc... has a disclaimer for just that very reason.
 

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Natalya, this mod is meant to be for "OFF ROAD USE ONLY" and I have a disclaimer I'm going to add for anyone looking to buy it. Every company adds disclaimers to any modification to a vehicle. Go to SummitRacing.com or Jegs.com and you will see that with every non factory muffler, exhaust, fuel injectors, turbo's, superchargers, computer chips, etc... has a disclaimer for just that very reason.
I will be the first customer and let the crew know how your work is,,payment sent..
 

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Hello fellow Insighters! I have bypassed my IMA using Mudder's Arduino Uno code and absolutely love it! (2000-2006 only) My background is working in aviation as a Sr. Avionics Technician and I'm also a Journeyman Electrician so these type of mods are easy for me to do. However, not everyone has access to the tools that are needed for this modification so that's where I come in! I will make a kit and have everything soldered, programmed, and ready for a plug and play install with no modification necessary. See below

If anyone is interested in this mod and needs help making up a kit please PM me. Works for both AT and MT 2000-2006 Honda Insights

The items needed are:

Your BCM/MCM harness (see pic below)(which doesn't need to be cut into pieces)(located forward of the battery on top)

I bought a spare harness so I can have it separate from the original, this is just my preference (see picture below) I can make your's like this if you want.

The positive and negative harness attached to your battery(see pic below)(located on the left side of the IMA battery as you are looking at it, the positive side goes to the 30AMP fuse and the negative side goes to a bus bar right next to it (I do a slight mod to the negative cable to allow for a bigger terminal ring, however I am extremely anal about my work) You won't need to send me this because I will just supply the correct hardware to mate the connections.

Arduino Uno with protective case (case is optional, but it does protect the unit) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HFSWC06/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H4BKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

The original 30 AMP fuse that is on your battery will work.

All together these parts cost about $25 so that is extremely cheap if you needed to wait to purchase a new battery while still driving your Insight.

If you would like for me to build this kit and supply you with the mentioned parts as a whole kit the total would be $75 given that you send me your harness.

If you want to order a kit and don't have a harness then it will be an extra $60.

If you want me to ship out a kit ASAP before sending me out your harness then it will be $135 ($50 will be refunded once you send me your harness)

Also, if you ever decide that you want to install a battery back in your Insight you'll have to send me your harness again so I can repair the wires and put it back to blueprint. There wont be a charge for that just send me your harness and $10 to cover shipping back to you.

I hope I can help some of you guys out that want to do this modification either temporary or permanently.
Can you explain what this thing does exactly?

the IMA is required for starting. The starter isn't used except rarely. What does this bypass do exactly? I have a degraded battery I can still drive the car and occasionally I reset the IMA to make sure the battery is not 100% dead. Why would someone want to get this thing installed?
 

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For convienence, and so you don't have to keep re-setting the the IMA light or CEL indicator.
 

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the search function doesn't seem to be working this moment but search IMA Bypass. This is for people who want to remove the use of the IMA battery pack.
 
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