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Discussion Starter #61
Next is a slightly upgraded clutch, nothing amazing, just a little more clamp load again from Exedy.



I bought all new bolts from Honda and threw it all together.



With everything ready, I bolted the engine to the transmission and but it on a roller dolly ready for its new home in the Insight.

 

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Discussion Starter #66
Alright now for the fun part.

Its time to put the engine in the car. I bought mounts from innovative mounts that are for a K24 into an Insight with a 5 speed. I was told these mounts would work well and put the engine in a decent position. Here are the mounts as received.



Put the mounts in place that bolt on the car side.





Found my first issue with these mounts. The bolt hole size for the passenger mount was a 12mm. The bolt on the Insight is a 10mm. This means that I will have to grind off the captive nut on the chassis and drill out the bolt hole to accommodate a 12mm bolt. That sucks but whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Moving on, lets put the engine in the car. Here are some pictures on how it fits.










As you can see, the axles do not line up well. The engine was sitting very low and very far forward in the chassis. This caused the intake to hit the core support. Most people just remove it and install hood pins but that is unacceptable to me. The oil pan sat about 2.5” below the frame rails. All this would be fine if I was only going to drag race the car, but for a daily driver and road course car these mounts are junk. They clearly found a position that the engine fit but didn't want to spend the time to make it fit well.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
With the engine in sitting in a location that I didn't care for, I had to decide if I was going to put the engine in a better spot or live with its position. As you could of guessed, I decided to move the engine to its optimum location.

I started by taking all the mounts off the engine and supporting the engine and transmission with 2 jacks. This let me move the assembly around and find the position that would work the best. Once I got the engine in the position that I liked, I modified the mounts to fit.

Starting with the passenger side engine mount, I cut off the tab that would allow the 2 mounts on that side to bolt together. I needed to move this tab in order for the engine it sit in the correct position. Here is what the mount looked like on the engine before I started.



The tab sits pretty far back thus pushing the engine forward. It also creates large moment on the mount which I really didn't care for either. With the tab cut off I made a new one out 1/4” plate. I bolted the new tab to the chassis side of the mount and tacked the new tab to the engine side of the mount to get this.



As you can see the mounting tab has moved down and forward quite a bit compared to its original location. I was happy with its position and welded it all together.

 

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Discussion Starter #69
Since the original mount had a slot that this tab slid into during assembly, it was relatively strong with just the plug weld from the back and the bottom side of the mount welded. My tab does not have this slot so I wanted to add reinforcement to make sure it doesn't fail in fatigue over time. I added a support gusset to the back side of the mount to give it a little extra strength.





This is a little overkill but that's clearly how I like to roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
For the drivers side I ran into an issue. There are 3 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission, but now that I moved the assembly rearward and up so much, the 3rd bolt was hitting the frame. Its an aluminum frame and I didn't want to jeopardize its strength so I decided to clearance the mount and the transmission case.

Here is the mount before I started cutting. That jagged line is a semi guide of what I need to cut off.



Next the vertical portion of the mount needed to be cut off and 2" removed.



Again, I put the mount back in the car and tacked it into its new position.





I don't have a good finished picture of that mount so we will move onto the rear one.
 

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Discussion Starter #72




When I was putting this mount in place for the last time I noticed that the hole through the mount was not straight. So I had to fix that.



Here are all the mounts finish welded before paint.

 

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Awesome work...I wish you could fix my mounts for me! Any header clearance issues when moving the motor back?

Also for the passenger side mount I used the smaller insight bolt, but just made the metal insert the correct diameter for the mount. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Awesome work...I wish you could fix my mounts for me! Any header clearance issues when moving the motor back?

Also for the passenger side mount I used the smaller insight bolt, but just made the metal insert the correct diameter for the mount. Hope that makes sense.
I checked header clearance as I went, so all good to go. It runs tightly to the body so nothing hangs lower than the frame now. Honestly, everything fit far better after I moved the engine to a better position.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
With the mounts completed I wanted to move over and work on the front spindles. For the spindles I decided to go with EM2 civic parts. These spindles and hubs will work perfectly with my custom suspension components and will also accept the larger axles that are used with the K-swap.

I started with some well used parts off a 2003 Civic EX. I popped the bearings out in order to start the rebuilding process.



From there, I cleaned everything in a sandblaster and came away with some very nice looking parts.

 

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Discussion Starter #77
Now that everything is clean, we are ready for some paint and reassembly. I went with a standard black chassis paint just to keep everything clean. Now to press in some quality bearings.



Now the snap ring.



Unfortunately this is where I failed and didn't get anymore pictures until I was done. So here are the uprights in all their glory with a new bearings, ball joint and new high strength wheel studs.

 

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Discussion Starter #79
Next up is the S2000 cluster install. I decided to go with an AP1 S2000 cluster as the Tach is centered leaving the temp and fuel gauges on each side. The symmetry appeases my OCD the way an AP2 cluster never could. I wanted to make a jumper harness instead of cutting up the stock harness just in case I decide to change something in the future.

Here is the stock Insight cluster for reference.



I started by finding connectors that were the mating pairs for the wiring in the insight.



I then took the pigtails and the wiring diagrams from each car and started to solder the jumper together.

To ensure that the S2000 cluster outputs correctly, a converter is generally needed. The white Molex connector at the bottom connects to a K-tuned dash converter in order to manipulate the signals and convert to the correct values.



I ended up with this mess. I rewrapped the harness and made it clean at this point. I dont have any pictures of the final result because I was too excited and wanted to put the cluster in the car and forgot. I will try to get some pictures if I pull the cluster out again.

 

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I love the S2000 clusters, but I don't have an engine that can swing 9 grand :(
 
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