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Discussion Starter #1
I hope this is the correct forum to ask.

I just discovered a BUNCH of spliced wires, soldering, and extra connectors on my ECM main harness. This is beyond my capabilities, and need assistance from an expert.

This may very well be the reason my car drives like crap, and Id like all this wiring put back to stock.

I will pay for services and travel expenses, we have a spare bedroom here, too.

Thank you so much.
 

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Chicago & Detroit
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I'M (conversation) me with your phone number and I'll give you a call to discuss
 

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DIY MIMA perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Previous owner swapped in an ECM and (hopefully) stock injectors when I picked the car up. I think they were running an aftermarket ECU.

There are taped up wires that go all the way through the firewall... going to go wire by wire to fix it.

Also just discovered that the ECM in the car is not for the year of my vehicle. Part number checks out as for a 2001, but I checked the vin with the dealership, the car is a 2000.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I need some help if anyone has the tools/knowlege/parts to remove an ecm connector pin and put in a new pin with a new wire?

Its the primary O2 5v wire, I think.

Im running out of money trying to get this car running properly but I can treat you to a picnic or lunch/dinner from the grocery store as compensation.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Pulled the Blink codes...

The codes read by the OD2 cnc gauge (shown at least once in the past week) are P1444, P1162, P1165

CEL blink codes...
4long 8short (48) There are lots of P codes for this Blink code, and none of them matches what I've seen on the C&C gauge... not sure here either

EPS blink codes....
2 long then a pause
then 3 short
I'm guessing this is (20) and (3) but there only seems to be a (3) code and a (23) code, not a (20) and (3) So I'm not sure

srs blinks
1 long 1 short (11) Open circuit in driver's airbag inflator.

ima blinks
5 long 9 short pause (59) High voltage short circuit
2 short pause (2) Power Command Circuit High Input
4 short pause (4) Engine Torque Signal High Input
6 short pause (6) Mode Signal Circuit High Input
 

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ima blinks
5 long 9 short pause (59) High voltage short circuit
2 short pause (2) Power Command Circuit High Input
4 short pause (4) Engine Torque Signal High Input
6 short pause (6) Mode Signal Circuit High Input
Well just talking about these codes it's clear you have a quite a few disconnected wires. 2,4,6 for a start.
Please post pics of the wiring mess you are talking about.
 

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I recall the earlier pictures, It was truly a mess.

Since you say that it had an after market ECM, I think the inherent rewiring is quite possibly too much to cope with. It seems to me that you would be much better off to buy an engine harness from someone who is parting a car and install that in place of the questionable mess that you aren't likely to sort. JMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well just talking about these codes it's clear you have a quite a few disconnected wires. 2,4,6 for a start.
Please post pics of the wiring mess you are talking about.
Would a complete Engine Harness (to ECM) from a 2000 donor car potentially fix those codes? Or would the wires be in a different harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh! I just remembered something, John had me try and start the car when we had a bunch of grounds disconnected, and the car made a bunch of clicks and wouldnt start, and the IMA light came on. I bet those IMA blink codes were stored from that event. At least the disconnected wire related codes.

I did just recently get the high voltage short code, from the grid charger connector getting wet (leaky roof).

And the car does have a different steering wheel, PO said they forgot to hook the airbag up? No horn either, but the car beeps when I lock it. I never checked that out. That should have been the first thing to fix, probably. Since its safety related.

But at least that accounts for the disconnected wires.

I was planning on checking all the wires from the primary O2 sensor connector in the engine bay, to the connector at the ECM, for resistance, and repinning new wires in if needed. As the plan for trying to fix the O2 sensor CEL.

Or maybe I should get the 2000 ECM installed, since the car is still on the 2001 ECM, i have been hesitant to add another variable to this mess.
 

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Would a complete Engine Harness (to ECM) from a 2000 donor car potentially fix those codes? Or would the wires be in a different harness?
In the picture you showed before, in one of your numerous threads, the wiring mess was in the footwell at the ECM. You should obviously change that harness. If you trace that harness backward, pretty sure you will find that it goes through the firewall and is what I call the "engine harness" A fix is never guaranteed when your "advisors" don't have good firsthand knowledge of the issue and that isn't going to happen with a few posts from folks whose patience is already nearing exhaustion.

I personally think you would be better getting rid of this disaster and getting a nice non-hybrid Civic. You will certainly send a lot of money down the tubes paying someone to work on this issue.

Sorry, but I'm out.:(
 

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Replacing the butchered harness with one for the correct year is the first easy and logical step.

Then plug in the correct ECM and we can assess the results.
 

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I think your harness is fine. You need to install the MY 2000 ECM. The O2 sensor issues go through the ECM and there is/can be a difference between the two modules.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So the MY2000 ECM is installed, and paired with key and fob.

But now the IMA C&C and IMA gauge in the dashboard cluster are unresponsive.

I attatched pictures from when the battery covet was off.

Im thinking now that module doesnt communicate with the MY2000 ECM...lol.

I should be getting a full 2000 engine harness late next week.

86320
86321
 

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I have the same MCM in my 2000 and everything works like it is supposed to.

Sam
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Hm, ok, well, now the gauges are working normally, and the CEL went off without me deleting it? I've driven probably 14 miles with the correct MY2000 ECM. The car has lean burn again, but it has its super low power issue again. I did find it interesting that now the car is quite difficult to take out of lean burn, which is a problem, since the car doesn't make enough power in lean burn to accelerate.

shoulder shrug I'm just going to try this oem port size EGR valve, and remove the grill blocks, see if that helps out my lean burn acceleration.
 

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Get real, lean burn will not give you enough power to accelerate, ubless you are going slightly down hill.
Pure physics.
You can take it out of lean burn by just moving your gas pedal.
You can't have both worlds at the same time. Period.
Install a vacuum gauge for a better understanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, but Im at sea level now, no reason why the car shouldnt accelerate in lean burn on level ground.

I know it seems rediculous, since almost no hypermilers do it constantly like I do, but when running properly, these cars do have a nice slow steady acceleration while in lean burn above 100mpg. Ive driven two cars that could do it (owned one), and Ive ridden in two others.

CEL came back, so Im going ahead with the engine harness swap.
 

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If the car seems to have less power than the other cars you've driven, It wouldn't hurt to check the catalytics to see if they are plugged up at all. Lean burn is for cruising; at best you'll get just mild acceleration on level ground at lower speeds.
 
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