Honda Insight Forum banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
I got the one from Alex Peper.
http://www.obd-2.com

I'm pretty happy with it, but you need a laptop to run it. I have a 110 volt converter and a really old Acer Pentium 120 that only runs windows 95.
I really like the dashboard on it because you can set up gauges to monitor. I have the intake air and coolant temperature on the large ones so it's easy to see.

robert
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,612 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
An update to the automatic warm air intake mod:

I moved some parts around so they are much different compared to the original posting at the beginning of this thread.

I took more pictures and replaced them using the same name so older links will still work but will contain the newest pics.

To make it easy for viewing, here are just the pics of the update.

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake01.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake02.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake03.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake04.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake05.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake06.jpg

http://74.92.0.194/misc/insight/air-...r-intake07.jpg

The tube that goes from the cat to the air mixer is now all one piece that goes under the battery. It is wrapped with tons of duct tape for stength and some insulating value. After the initial duct tape wrapping of several layers, there are two layers of insulation tape (R2 value for each layer), then another wrapping of duct tape as a final layer. So I know that it is at least R5 value or more with all of the wrappings.

I was able to shorten the length of the insulated tube by repositioning the angle of the warm air inlet 180 degress from the stock part so now the inlet faces the rear of the car.

Also, the metal air mixer is double layered insulated as well.

We will see how next winter goes :smile:

JoeCVT = Just your average CVT owner
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
I did the same thing joecvt did. I used the parts from a 1983 Honda accord. Here are some pictures:

Hot air flapper valve installed in lower insight air cleaner. Hot air comes in the back of the air cleaner. I put in a baffle to duct the cold air from the normal opening into the air valve. I used sheet foam to insulate the bottom part of the air cleaner housing and sheet silicone for the top cover.





The location of the hot air intake on the back of the air box makes for a very short run to the cat. I used two pieces of molded radiator hose to get around the battery. So far I have not had time to insulate the metal hose piece. I used heat pipe for older cars. The hot air valve is a 1 1/2 inch od, so I used the same size radiator hose, 1 1/2 inch id. Connected the two pieces together with a short piece of 1 1/2 inch od metal sink drain pipe. I cut a hole in the cat shield. Due to rust from 10 Chicago winters there was no way I was going to remove the cat shield. Used a dremel to cut the hole, much easier than I expected.




The accord air cleaner assembly included the check valve. I used a cable clamp to mount it to a stock fastener. One outlet to the air temp sensor in the upper air cleaner cover and one to the vacuum flapper valve in the lower air cleaner cover.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
More pictures. The stock accord air cleaner also had the temp sensor. When cold it is not open and no vacuum leaks past it. When hot a small orifice is opened leaking vacuum, then the valve on the air flapper has no vacuum and does not open.



Temp sensor installed in the air cleaner top cover. The temp sensor has a small set screw that can be used to adjust the temp. I used a five gallon bucket and hot air gun to set it for 100 degrees F. In real operation a few nights ago in 32 degree weather I was able to drive about 20 miles with the intake air temp reading 98F. I do not know how cold it can get before I can't maintain 98F.

Has anyone ever insulated the air intake runners from the air cleaner to the head? At stops the intake air temp drops rather quickly. Returns back to temp quickly after starting up. I wonder how much heat is lost in the intake runners.




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,741 Posts
Or reduce the fresh air volume coming into the box.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,159 Posts
What do you mean reduce the ampunt of fresh air? At those temps all the air comes in from the tube from the cat....
New to the thread, so sorry if I missed this, but with the hot air pipe valve/flapper all the way open, wouldn't the air coming into the engine be a mix of both intake passages (i.e. cat 'hot air pipe' and original factory intake tube)? Or is there a second flapper that closes the factory intake tube that I missed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
The flapper fully open only draws cold air in through it, fully closed only draws hot air in. It can also be anywhere in between. I think that in 35F weather it is only cracked open a little, and draws mostly hot air in. In 35F weather I can hear a slight whistling while driving, 40F weather I can't hear the whistle, 30F weather I can't hear it either.

Here is a better picture. The one seam (upper left to lower right) that is obvious in the flapper assy is where the flapper rests when fully closed (hot air). The hinge point is towards the upper left of the flapper assy in the picture. You can just barely see the end of the flapper in the lower left, it is slightly lighter than the metal. It even has a rubber lip to provide a good seal. When fully open it only draws cold air in through the normal air cleaner opening, when fully closed it only draws air in through the back of the air cleaner.



Bottom view of the original air cleaner:

 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,823 Posts
You can make your life a lot easier if you use some grill blocks in addition to your hot air valve. The rush of cold air through the huge grills, both upper and lower, makes it hard to get IAT up to the near ideal 115F in the winter. I use about 90% grill block, but I do not yet have a flapper valve. You might try blocking most of the top and about half of the bottom and see how that works. Insulating all the warm air pipes will also help, in my experience.

It is assumed of course that when using grill blocks you are carefully monitoring engine coolant temperature!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
Lower grill is fully blocked, upper about 80%. With the grill blocks but without the hot air mod the IAT was about 15 degrees above outside air. With my current hot air intake I can manage a 55 degree increase over outside air, and at any temp above 30F it will regulate to 98F IAT. I need to insulate the metal pipe off the cat. Also, it appears that there is a big temp loss in the actual runners from the air cleaner into the head. I might try insulating that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,823 Posts
Lower grill is fully blocked, upper about 80%. With the grill blocks but without the hot air mod the IAT was about 15 degrees above outside air. With my current hot air intake I can manage a 55 degree increase over outside air, and at any temp above 30F it will regulate to 98F IAT. I need to insulate the metal pipe off the cat. Also, it appears that there is a big temp loss in the actual runners from the air cleaner into the head. I might try insulating that.
Yes, i think you are correct about all those losses. I found that 2" wide fiberglas pipe insulation wrapped around the various tubes did wonders. Bind it in place with zip ties.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
Anyone that has installed a hot air intake......we're you also running a grill or radiator block? So far, i can get about a 60 degree increase in intake air temp over outside air temp, regulates to about 98F above 40 degrees.......but I have seen NO increase in my mpgs.......what gives? This last tank was a full 10 mpg down (68mpg) from my high summer mpgs of 78+. I can't say that the hot air mod made any improvement in my mpgs......does the hot air mod only help with the manual trans cars that can run lean burn?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
Anyone that has installed a hot air intake......we're you also running a grill or radiator block? So far, i can get about a 60 degree increase in intake air temp over outside air temp, regulates to about 98F above 40 degrees.......but I have seen NO increase in my mpgs.......what gives? This last tank was a full 10 mpg down (68mpg) from my high summer mpgs of 78+. I can't say that the hot air mod made any improvement in my mpgs......does the hot air mod only help with the manual trans cars that can run lean burn?
I've been wondering this myself since I own a CVT.
I would like to hear from other CVT owners that have done the hot air intake mod. So far, I'm not convinced it's worth it for us CVT owners.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,789 Posts
My $1.50 worth:

I put a combination of lower grill block, adjustable rad block, and adjustable warm air inlet, and a KLR3CYL belly pan on my cvt. Allows very nice temperature control for all seasons.

I like inlet air temp (iat) is best around 115 F. Anything above ambient helps with economy (unless you're in the SW with high ambients). In winter weather, I can't get 115 unless mountain climbing with decent load on the engine. But I can easily add 60 deg or more to the ambient.

IAT is more manageable I think because of the other blocks, including the rad block. Good idea to be able to directly read engine coolant temp (ect) before blocking the rad. The indicator on the dash is very general in accuracy, and by the time it shows red, the engine is cooked. My cvt seems to perform best with ect around 205-210. Easy to maintain with the combo I have in place, on my mt (without the mods) impossible in this cold weather.

I never get all the mpg back in cold weather, but I certainly lessen the hit. My cvt cold weather 'hit' is about 5-10% of the yearly mpg average. Without these mods on my mt, the winter temps are hitting my mt with a 15-20 % hit. :mad: (summer project for the mt.)

Being able to have some control of such a variable helps my cvt's mpg.
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top