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I have a 2010 Honda Insight and about 2 weeks ago I got in my car and tried turning on the engine but it didn't crank over. A number of messages popped up saying check brakes, parking brakes, abs, etc. I'm guessing battery died.

I did not drive the car for about 5 days. I did not leave any lights on.

I was able to jump the car and run it, I took it to AutoZone where they checked the voltage and said it was fine.

But I've had to jump again at least 5 times since then. If I don't drive the car for a day (Example Drive Monday, Not Tuesday, Drive Wednesday) I will have to jump it again.

Do you guys think its the battery or the IMA? I can jump it with a portable charger.

Alos I don't have anything plugged into the Cigarette lighter receptacle.
 

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It's NOT fine. Voltage doesn't mean anything. Have it LOAD TESTED. Or just replace it. 12V battery failure like you describe is very common on the G2 Insights.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the Quick Response.

I'll probably end up getting a new battery instead, just to be safe.

Any Brand Recommendations?
 

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Dealers can be stupid. Mine did a battery test with the engine running...!
Then I showed them it dies in 2 minutes of light and radio if the engine is off and they could no longer maintain the battery was good. Tested it again, this time engine off, and hey... got me a new battery under warranty.

....

Which turned out to be hardly any better.


Some batteries have one bad cell which never gets fully charged as the other cells are brimmed and prevent further charging. So the cell gets worse and worse until only the 5 other cells do anything. If you draw power the bad cell reverses and the voltage drops towards 8, and all the systems start producing error codes and fight for their turn to show it on the MID.
New 12 V battery, problem gone.
Your IMA battery is fine, don't ever worry about that. Gen2's IMA batteries are surprisingly resilient. It is the lead acid one that doesn't live up to scratch, but those are cheap.
I'd advise a non-Honda battery. ;)
 

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Thanks for the Quick Response.

I'll probably end up getting a new battery instead, just to be safe.

Any Brand Recommendations?
If the battery keeps dying before replacement Id first get it load tested(if passed still go to next test) then before buying a new battery I'd do a parasitic load test...basically what that is to check if something is draining the battery while the car is off(ex. security system malfunctioning and using more than usual,dome light,radio,etc.)
 

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you could take the ground off the battery and hook an ammeter on when your car remains off&locked, then see if there's any current. (I would not recommend this method to anybody and am just joking. A professional test is way better)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I recently went on a camping trip and the car was loaded in the back and it was very hot weather. The ima sensor light came on. Stopped at auto zone and had the light read. Said it was the ima fan. After driving a little while later the 12v battery went completely dead and the car totally shut off. We charged the 12v battery and we were able to turn the ima battery off and we made it home. I bought a new fan and installed it but the 12v battery keeps going dead. It only lasts a few days of driving before it’s dead again. O’rileys tried to clear the ima sensor light off but it wouldn’t clear. I now have an appointment at Honda and am dreading the bill. The 12v battery is only a year old. Any suggestions of what I can try next to solve this problem
 

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Even a new battery can die. 12V batteries don't like prolonged exposure to temperatures above 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit), and a full discharge can kill them.
Especially when one of the 6 battery cells is already lower; that cell then inverts, i.e. gets charged the wrong way round, when the other cells are still providing power on discharge.

My rule of thumb is that a 12V battery that has once run flat is never to be trusted, and if it turns dead again it is a confirmed write-off. Get a new 12V battery. You need it and it will solve your problems.
 

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Simply:
Buy a new 12V battery, or warranty it as it is only a year old. ALWAYS LOAD TEST A BATTERY to see if it is usable.
When you install the new battery the IMA /CEL light will go away.
 

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The IMA/CEL light appears when the battery voltage drops to around 9 Volt. You would see other system errors too at that voltage. All those systems work fine, just not at 9 Volt.
 

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Reddevil I had the 12v battery tested and it turned out to be bad. I was given another one under warranty but the battery keeps draining and the battery light never turned off when the new battery was installed and the ima charging light is still on. Any suggestions as to what to look for now. I have an appointment at Honda to do a diagnostic. Auto zone tried to clear the ima light but couldn’t clear it. The light indicated that it was the ima fan. We installed another one but the ima charging light is still on
 

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We need the proper Honda dtc codes to assist properly.
Get them to print them out from their code reader, do not just get a verbal message.
Then you can take a pic and post it here.
 

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Usually if the 12V voltage drops you get several system errors, not just the IMA one.
If you live in a hot climate (you might add your general location to your profile) the IMA battery is likely to suffer more as batteries do not like excessive heat.

If the auxiliary fuse blows the IMA system throws an unclearable error and you get the battery symbol just like you have, but also the car won't lock and unlock remotely. If it does not respond to the key fob it is that fuse.

In all cases get a voltage readout for the 12V battery, even if it is just one of those digital volt meters you can plug in the cigarette lighter socket. If you ever see the voltage drop below 11 Volt you know enough.

Anyway, best of luck! I hope it all turns out fine.
 

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Usually if the 12V voltage drops you get several system errors, not just the IMA one.
If you live in a hot climate (you might add your general location to your profile) the IMA battery is likely to suffer more as batteries do not like excessive heat.

If the auxiliary fuse blows the IMA system throws an unclearable error and you get the battery symbol just like you have, but also the car won't lock and unlock remotely. If it does not respond to the key fob it is that fuse.

In all cases get a voltage readout for the 12V battery, even if it is just one of those digital volt meters you can plug in the cigarette lighter socket. If you ever see the voltage drop below 11 Volt you know enough.

Anyway, best of luck! I hope it all turns out fine.
 

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Still dealing with the ima charging light on. Took it to Honda and all they did was do the recalls on the airbags and said they need 2-5 hrs to figure out what the problem is. Initially the code read it was the cooling fan for the ima. Replaced it and no change. Replaced the 12v battery because it was bad. It seems to change if I rev it to 3k. My brother wanted me to turn it on a let it run with the lights on. It stayed running for a half an hr and lights still on. I turned it off and tried to start it again and the 12v battery was dead. I live on the Oregon coast so not hot but when it originally stopped charging I was on a camping trip in 100 degree temp and totally loaded down to the max with camping gear. The key remote still works when the 12v battery is charged.
 

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Also, I’ve been driving it around town making several stops and starts and still starts. Does it need to be driven longer to charge the batteries? I’m afraid to go very far out of town if it’s not charging.
 

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Please get the codes and post them here as requested earlier.
We can't help you if you don't help us.
 

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Usually if the 12V voltage drops you get several system errors, not just the IMA one.
If you live in a hot climate (you might add your general location to your profile) the IMA battery is likely to suffer more as batteries do not like excessive heat.

If the auxiliary fuse blows the IMA system throws an unclearable error and you get the battery symbol just like you have, but also the car won't lock and unlock remotely. If it does not respond to the key fob it is that fuse.

In all cases get a voltage readout for the 12V battery, even if it is just one of those digital volt meters you can plug in the cigarette lighter socket. If you ever see the voltage drop below 11 Volt you know enough.

Anyway, best of luck! I hope it all turns out fine.
We need the proper Honda dtc codes to assist properly.
Get them to print them out from their code reader, do not just get a verbal message.
Then you can take a pic and post it here.
The codes were P1634 and P1448 indicating ima charging failures. Codes will not clear so diagnosis directs to code U1204(55)
 
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