Battery Pack Survey
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Joined
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4,836 Posts
Search the forums.
There is one member form Canada that states over 200K Km
And there's many posts in regard to the IMA pack and replacement issues.
See:
Worst fear has come true.
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... 7&start=45
There is one member form Canada that states over 200K Km
And there's many posts in regard to the IMA pack and replacement issues.
See:
Worst fear has come true.
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... 7&start=45
Joined
·
72 Posts
152k / 5 years on both batteries...
2000 insight with 110K miles. The 12v battery is dead, the main battery is working, though usually only shows 1/2 charge, but fully recharges with my 40-mile interstate commute. Usually experience a recal couple times per week. Is there any reason to buy a new 12v battery? Car is running fine except the occassional jerky ride which probly indicates need to clean EGR. Getting 60mpg with passenger, 70mpg alone. No mods other than cardboard air damn at radiator.
Hi Modelman; Yes, you absolutely need to replace your 12V battery! You say it is dead. Experience has shown that performance of the 144 volt pack and the entire IMA is heavily dependant on an excellent, strong 12 volt. The ground straps are vital, too, and have been an issue. Please search "modifications and technical" as well as "problems & Troubleshoot" for threads concerning these topics. In fact, several have fixed their perceived "problems" with just a 12 volt replacement!...........
Joined
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4,836 Posts
Many Insighters have the same misconception. the 12V is required for pulling in the HV contactor else the 144v pack will _never_ be engaged :!:
And there's still a complex and possible interaction between IMA load and the DC-DC converter. It uses some of the 144v generated in the IMA motor and drops it to 12v for the conventional electrics.
One possible scenairo is that a 12v near its demise drops low v enough that the BCM resets (effectively a manual recal) and your in a forced charge on start-up.
Another is if the 12v fails in an unusual fashion. Sometimes the internal resistance of a 12v can drop dangerously low. Plate bridging or heavy sulphation are two of the possible causes. Then the 12v charging system incorrectly "sees" the need for more current, drawing a heavier load in the IMA system. In a car with a conventional charging system the alternator frequently melts down.
But from the many reports in here the 12v is prematurely replaced. Sometimes the BCM can drift into the SoC doldrums for days - weeks at a time. A reset is all that's needed. Disconnect the 12v or
The IMA reset proceedure.
http://www.insightcentral.net/encyclope ... orage.html
Replacing the 12v effectively does the same.
And IMA batteries will eventually exibit a more fragile SoC and more frequent recals. Its just the normal part of their aging process. Their probably still "good" for many tens for thousands of miles. You'll just have to live with the lower MPG due to the more frequent forced charging or _choose_ to replace them prematurely. Warranty will only cover them at their predetermined point of failure as defined by an IMA code (the red IMA light on the dash comes on while driving).
HTH!
And there's still a complex and possible interaction between IMA load and the DC-DC converter. It uses some of the 144v generated in the IMA motor and drops it to 12v for the conventional electrics.
One possible scenairo is that a 12v near its demise drops low v enough that the BCM resets (effectively a manual recal) and your in a forced charge on start-up.
Another is if the 12v fails in an unusual fashion. Sometimes the internal resistance of a 12v can drop dangerously low. Plate bridging or heavy sulphation are two of the possible causes. Then the 12v charging system incorrectly "sees" the need for more current, drawing a heavier load in the IMA system. In a car with a conventional charging system the alternator frequently melts down.
But from the many reports in here the 12v is prematurely replaced. Sometimes the BCM can drift into the SoC doldrums for days - weeks at a time. A reset is all that's needed. Disconnect the 12v or
The IMA reset proceedure.
http://www.insightcentral.net/encyclope ... orage.html
Replacing the 12v effectively does the same.
And IMA batteries will eventually exibit a more fragile SoC and more frequent recals. Its just the normal part of their aging process. Their probably still "good" for many tens for thousands of miles. You'll just have to live with the lower MPG due to the more frequent forced charging or _choose_ to replace them prematurely. Warranty will only cover them at their predetermined point of failure as defined by an IMA code (the red IMA light on the dash comes on while driving).
HTH!
Joined
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3 Posts
The original battery was replaced under warranty by Honda right after I got the car, about 2 years old. The Honda replacement battery lasted about 3 years. Replaced with a Bumblebee high performance battery that lasted just over 3 years. I rebuilt that battery using sticks from it and from a used similar battery which I nursed along for about 2 years with the help of a grid charger. Eventually I bought a high performance 3 year warranty battery, about 7 months ago.
The car doesn't run well unless both the main and the 12 Volt batteries are in good condition.
Drive on.
Mine had the original battery at 20 years old and 225k miles. It was thoroughly over, even after deep discharging, grid charging, and all other attempts to baby it back to life it would never give more than a few seconds of boost and would then immediately negative recal, followed by IMA and CEL. Fair play to it!
I managed to get my hands on a cheap used pack out of a 2006 car with 60k miles on it, the battery is a Primearth replacement date-coded from 2012. Unfortunately no records of the mileage on the car when it was installed, but it seems solid so far. If I leave the car to stand for more than about 10 days, it will start experiencing negative recals after a few miles, but if used regularly it will easily go 3-4 months between needing grid charges.
I managed to get my hands on a cheap used pack out of a 2006 car with 60k miles on it, the battery is a Primearth replacement date-coded from 2012. Unfortunately no records of the mileage on the car when it was installed, but it seems solid so far. If I leave the car to stand for more than about 10 days, it will start experiencing negative recals after a few miles, but if used regularly it will easily go 3-4 months between needing grid charges.
Joined
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1,325 Posts
Mine, just now failing (or maybe not failing, depending on who you ask!), is a stock 2005, with about 120k miles. I had a series of things happen over the last year that might have triggered its problems: broken ground wire (replaced), dead 12 volt battery (replaced), sitting around in my garage for a couple of months in the middle of the summer during the quarantine where it never occurred to me that I should be taking it out once in a while. :-(
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