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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I mentioned before both on and off the forum, I have been working on a replacement IMA battery cooling solution. This consists of a 170CFM variable speed fan controlled by a PIC processor and 2 temperature probes. At full speed its ~70% more airflow than the stock fan. Its a fairly easy install - basically just remove the old fan/shroud, install the new, stick the inlet temp probe in front of the battery and replace the 2 fan relays with a jumper.

Right now it works like this:

If the pack is between about 45F and 80F, fan stays mainly off. It does run on low a few seconds every couple of minutes to update the temp readings.

If the pack is BELOW 45F and the inlet is warmer than the pack it runs the fan slowly to help warm the pack.

If the pack is above 80F and the inlet is cooler than the pack, it runs the fan at a varying speed according to cooling required. I know here in Phoenix the pack can be about 110F but the cabin temp is 125+ when you first get in - don't want to run the fan to WARM the battery.

If the pack is over 120F, the fan is on full speed regardless of inlet temp.

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Any of these can be changed or adjusted if needed. These settings are NOT speed dependent like the stock fan, so it will run even at low speed or autostop.

The fan is definitely more noticeable than stock, especially at low speed driving. Running the A/C at a speed of "2" or driving above 25mph mask the noise fairly well. I actually like being able to hear it, it gives kind of an audible feedback of pack temp.

Right now I only have a couple of PCB's on hand, but will be ordering more once I get an idea of how many people are interested.

The fan specs are: 170CFM, 20 watts, 1.7A, 1600 - 5100 RPM, 58dBA (at full speed)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm going to work on a write-up soon, but for now:

You almost have to remove the pack from the car to replace the fan. The fan is held on by eight 10mm bolts. Wiring is fairly simple, no cutting or splicing. We reuse the OEM fan plug and the temp probe slides in front of the pack easily. The two small black relays that are side by side on the actual pack control the fan - we need to remove both and install a jumper to give the fan full power whenever the key is on.

Pictures will follow soon.
 

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I'm interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here's a picture of what the fan setup looks like.

 

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Nice work!
I am in Albuquerque, and I have my IMA battery pack out right now for refurbishing. Put me down for one - I can send you my fan, shroud & payment right now if you can take it.
 

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Kestreltom, would you like to get together and talk Insights?

Sam
 

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Im primarily interested in a kit but if that possibility dries up i would consider the assembled product as well.
The same with me. Would be interested in a kit. Believe my battery pack is about to go out so would be beneficial to do both at the same time
 

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basic kit?

If you made up some DIY kits a la Peter Perkins - consisting of pcbs, the hex file, a list of components, and instructions all for $50 I would jump on it. This would get them out there quickly, allow you to get feedback on the firmware, and start an income stream for you - with an upgrade path as well. Hope to hear from you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Digging up my old thread. I have been selling these fans basically "unofficially" for several years. I currently have 3 built up, ready to go, plus about 15 kits without a fan. Gauging interest on whether I should order more parts to build more.

To recap, the fan is a 170cfm variable speed fan. It is controlled via a set of temperature probes and a circuit board mounted within the fan shroud. See the first post for details.

Price for a complete fan setup is $185 shipped anywhere in the US. This includes a $50 deposit that's refunded once you return your old fan and shroud.

We also have a kit which is a pre-built control board and temperature probe. You can use it to add a PWM fan of your choosing to your battery. Price is $75. You must be able to solder wires to the PCB.

Link to compete fan: Honda Insight High CFM Smart Fan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We don't ship Insight packs with the fan attached. The fan is not strong enough to handle the weight of the pack during shipping. Thus it would be shipped in a separate box.

We can always configure the pack for the fan (12V relay bypassed so fan always has power when key is on). Then all you must do is attached the fan to the pack. Eight 10mm bolts, 1 power connector, and 1 temperature probe.
 

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does the 170 cfm fan fit the current existing shroud? If so could the upgraded fan be attached and connected to the existing wiring so it could operate?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The fan mounts to the existing shroud, replacing the existing fan. There is a circuit board that gets mounted inside the shroud, thus 2 holes must be drilled into the shroud for wiring. The circuit board must be mounted inside the shroud as it contains a sensor to measure the outlet air temperature. For the 2 holes drilled, one is for the normal power wire and the other is for the inlet temperature probe. If you buy the complete fan you wont need to worry about this - just pay a deposit, install the upgrade and return your old fan to get your deposit back.

The upgraded fan uses the same fan power plug however we must replace a relay on the pack with a jumper wire so that the fan has 12 volt power whenever the key is on. There is also a temperature probe which must be inserted into the duct in front of the pack.

The complete fan kit comes already mounted in the shroud with everything needed to complete the swap. Installing the upgrade essentially consists of swapping your fan for the upgrade, plugging it in, sliding the inlet temp probe in place, and installing the jumper. You then mail back your old fan to get your deposit back.

Once done the new fan will move up to 70% more air through the pack. It is intelligently controlled, so a hot pack wont be warmed further if the inlet is warmer than the pack. The stock fan will run whenever the battery is above about 95F - even if the inlet air is 110F. The upgraded fan will not shut off during low speed driving or when stopped like the current fan does if cooling is needed. This is the perfect time to cool the battery as its typically not under much load, but the stock fan would shut down to provide a quiet cabin. The goal of the upgraded fan is to keep the pack around 75F, running at increasing speeds to meet this target. It also features a built in function to warm a freezing pack - if the pack is below 40F and the inlet is warmer, the fan will be run on low to gently warm the pack bringing it to a temperature where the car will use the pack more efficiently.
 

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....The goal of the upgraded fan is to keep the pack around 75F, running at increasing speeds to meet this target.
fyi, one of the more critical IMA DTCs, P1449-74, has a minimum temperature threshold of 77 degrees F. If the pack is kept to only 75F this fault would never register... I'd think you should have the fan set to around 80F...

edit, add P1449-74 info:

General Description
The voltage difference between channels (12 cells/channel) is 0.61 V at the maximum within the allowable capacity range (15%). However, if one cell in a channel is abnormal, the voltage difference is 1.2 V.
Also, the voltage detection tolerance for the BCM (battery condition monitor) module is specified as ±0.12 V at 32 - 140° F (0- 60°C). Therefore, if the difference between channels is 1.2 V or more, at least one cell is considered abnormal. If there is an offset problem or a gain problem in the voltage detection system, and the voltage detection error is out of the tolerance specified, a malfunction is detected and a DTC is stored....

Enable Conditions: Minimum, Maximum
Detected individual voltage (at ch1 through ch10): 14.5 V, NA
Detected individual temperature (at ch1 through ch4) 77°F (25°C), NA
Battery input/output current amperage: -20 A, 11 A
 
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