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2,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I got some and installed them. This is a super simple mod, took less than an hour.

I got these by Raybestos:
Raybestos H6001 Professional Grade Disc Brake Pad Drag Reduction Clip

12mm Socket
19mm Socket

1: Get the wheel off. (19mm)

2: Loosen this top bolt (12mm), but leave it in. Remove the lower bolt.

3: Raise the caliper out of the way above the hub assembly, and then clamp the pads to the rotor with a C-Clamp.

4: Install the clips. Make sure the ends of the clips end up in these little notches, otherwise they aren't in position properly. The wishbone part of the spring will be elevated pointing towards the centre of the brake pads.

Once both clips are in just put everything back together and do the other side.

2,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

This is just a comparison photo I did. Obviously the second clip gets installed at the bottom. You can see how the spring that's installed is under a lot of pressure here, compared with the one that's just hanging loose. Will they help MPG a lot? Who knows, but I don't think they'll hurt.

245 Posts
Nice photos, thanks sharing!

A little warning. I installed these springs a couple of weeks ago and on one side of one spring there was not enough clearance for it to fit where it needs to fit: it needs to be flush against the brake pad's metal backing plate, not a few mm away from it like it could be and was in my case. All other 7 points were good (2 per spring) but this one was not. Had to file off a bit of material from the edges of the brake pad tongue that fits in the caliper spring slot so that the anti-drag spring could fit properly.

I did not notice it initially, but later heard the pad dragging - this was because the spring was too thick to fit properly (or rather that one brake pad tongue was perhaps oversized a little). So, instead of spreading out the pads, this one spring was keeping the one pad from sliding smoothly out away from the disk as it would normally do even without the springs.

I had to undo my installation, file off some of the backing plate material off the pad tongue, and reinstall. Seems to be working fine now.

If the springs do not fully back up to the backing plate, as the pads wear off I suspect the springs might start to touch the disk before it is time to replace the brake pads and might result on squealing or grooves in the brake disk.

I think the springs work now, keeping the pads away from the disk. I think they create a little slop in the brake pedal, meaning, it takes more movement from the caliper piston to engage the pads than without the springs. It feels like there is extra space between the pads and the disk, which is kind of the point of these springs. Hard to tell for sure if that is the case though without back to back trials with and without springs, since this "slack" is small and the operation of the brake is fine otherwise and the pedal is firm, once it engages. It is not the squishy feel of air in the system, just that initial space getting compressed without any resistance.

Lastly, I wonder how these will behave as the pads wear out. Will that "slack" increase, since there will be more space for the thinned pads? Or are the springs not strong enough to compress the caliper pistons that much? I expect the springs are not strong enough to compress the pistons back as the pads wear off, but we shall see...

952 Posts
I do wonder about this maybe creating a long-term maintenance issue.

I don't have this mod but I've just replaced my rear discs (UK ES model - no rear drums) and pads at 75k. The face of the discs had become progressively corroded and it has been the case that they were no longer clearing the rust under normal braking. Never had the equivalent problem on my front brakes though.

Eventually it got to the point where the corrosion was causing the brakes to bind, giving an element of drag. I attribute a slightly lower than usual for the time-of-year fuel economy to that. Sometimes I'd get grinding noises from the rear brakes or hear an associated metallic rotating noise when going around corners.

In areas where the roads are gritted / salted in winter it seems more likely that this would happen. I'm a fairly light-footed driver and perhaps for someone that braked more forcefully and regularly this wouldn't have happened.

Under normal conditons the pads lie close enough to clear a proportion of any water that might accumulate.

Just something to consider.

2,175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Didn't think about that. This car is living in the southern United States, so it should be fine because we see salt maybe one time a year, but northerners might want to think about it.
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