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Anybody splice in repair segments of brake line, or is full replacement believed to be the only real option?
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I've done repair splices on an old car of mine ten years ago. I know the guy who has it now and it's still holding strong.

Just make sure you have some clean metal to work with before you start putting things together.
 

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Splices are fine as long as you use properly flared joints. DO NOT use compression fittings on brake lines. Compression fittings are fine for a 100psi air compressor line. Not so much for brakes that can hit 20x that.

The problem with splicing vs whole line is if one section's bad, how many others are also bad?
 

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Anybody splice in repair segments of brake line, or is full replacement believed to be the only real option?
Anybody splice in repair segments of brake line, or is full replacement believed to be the only real option?
Order them from SS Lines and be prepared to spend several hours/days finishing them. If the lines are rusted, so is everything else. No fun. While you are at it, you could remove the sections of fuel line and repair those as well or just order complete fuel line. It's not just one area to be concerned with, trust me. Spend the time to do it right or find a rust free insight. It's not a walk in the park to replace the lines. I have my tank off, had to take battery tray out which wasn't fun because I had to remove wipers, and plastic tray. If you love your car, do it, order new lines and replace all of that stuff. Is it worth it? For me to save the money I do on my daily, if I dropped 5k into the car, it would pay me back. No new car will save you as much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am thinking Nicopp brake lines. Much cheaper than Fine Lines stainless.

Does anybody know what fittings are required if I go with Nicopp and quantities required?
 

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Just did this on an Oldsmobile that's been sitting 10 years.

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The lines at the ABS unit were rusted and leaking, probably because they were the lowest point in the system. Cut out the old lines and used as a template. Many tight bends but got all 4 done and spliced in in a few hours for $10 in lines and $20 in fittings.

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I am thinking Nicopp brake lines. Much cheaper than Fine Lines stainless.

Does anybody know what fittings are required if I go with Nicopp and quantities required?
I'm just finishing mine up, have the driver's side front and then rear pieces. Under 200 and already bent. I wouldn't waste time with bending and flaring lines. Not as easy as it would seem but to each their own.
 

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NiCopp became quite appealing to me for that reason.
Either way you look at it, you are still going to be in for a labor intensive experience so, taking the time to bend those tubes and maybe even rerouting them to suit your needs wouldn't be too much more time. If you make your own lines then you could probably leave the gas tank alone and make your own path to the front. I bought the pre bent lines and would even do it again knowing that they are more than what I previously paid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fumes — what kind of end fitting did you need, quantity and sizes? What size NiCopp line did you use? What flaring tool? And where did you obtain same? Approximate total cost?
 

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Fumes — what kind of end fitting did you need, quantity and sizes? What size NiCopp line did you use? What flaring tool? And where did you obtain same? Approximate total cost?
The fittings (flare nuts) are 10x1.0mm inverted (or double) flare. NOT bubble flare. One nut on the end of each line. 18 in total for a manual Insight, if I'm counting right. I used SS nuts in the locations under the car where they'd be splashed with winter salt. I didn't see any reason to use the expensive SS nuts on the underhood connections. You can probably reuse at least some of the flare nuts. 3/16" is the size of NiCopp line to use. eBay seems to be the cheapest source. Watch out for copper-plated steel lines, I've purchased those by mistake once! A tubing cutter is nice, but I just use a hacksaw and then clean up/square up the cut with a file. I use a Cal-Van inline flaring tool. I think this is the one: In-Line Flaring Tool Auto-Specific Set - Cal-Van Tools I got mine at Advance Auto years ago, but I think they stopped carrying it. Total cost will depend on a few things. If you have the tools and just need to replace the two main lines to the rear, it won't cost much at all. Starting with nothing, you might spend over $100. I've done enough brake lines to keep most of the supplies on-hand, so it's hard to estimate the cost.

I didn't drop the fuel tank, so I had to route the replacement lines differently. Just make sure they're securely fastened to something, and that they aren't in contact with the exhaust or any moving (suspension) parts. And ideally not in your way when doing other work under the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Perfect. Thanks for the info. How many total feet of line did you need. Commonly sold in either 25 or 50 foot lengths, I forgot which. Where did you get the flare nuts? No concerns about galvanic corrosion using stainless flare nuts on NiCopp lines (I don’t know whether there should be, that’s why I am asking )?
 

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I'm not sure how many feet of line I used. I keep a roll or two around. A 25' roll should cover the two long lines to the rear, but I won't guarantee it! I got the SS flare nuts on eBay. Steel ones are easy to find, any autoparts store will have them. Just make sure you walk out with the correct ones, some autoparts store employees seem to think they're all the same. I never even thought about galvanic corrosion. I'll look at my lines that have been in place for 3 years.
 

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Great video, actually. Ive got a brake line replacement coming up in the next few years, probably. It is good to have a complete idea of what I might be up against. My car is an Iowa car. However, it spent its first seven years down in Louisiana, so it hasn't been in the salt belt as long as some others.
 
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