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Mario just explained it better than I could have.

The EFAS PCBs I make now first send an approximately 2mph signal, then after holding the button down for 0.75 seconds it switches to the 1mph signal which it will output for the next 2.5 seconds. This way if your clutch switch was off, or if you didn't have one, you just continue to hold the EFAS button down for about a second before releasing and it will stay auto-stopped even without clutch or brake pressed.

If you do have a clutch switch on you can hold it until it begins to auto-stop (less than 0.75 seconds) and then let go and it will stay auto-stopped until the clutch switch is turned off or you tap the gas or shift into gear. The next time (and however many times you want) you go back into auto-stop just by shifting into neutral and holding the button so long as your clutch switch is on -- no need to press the brake pedal now.

Photo 1 -- PCBs -- look how far they've come. The black one up top could only output one version of the signal at a time, and it used a physical DPDT relay to break the clutch switch signal. The green ones are newer, they have the variable speed output, they also have 3 solid state SPDT relays, one for VSS, one for clutch switch, and one for the OAT line. One of the new green ones is missing a resistor and relay. It's going to an Insight that's in a warmer climate (Atlanta) so it doesn't need to fool the outside ambient temp.

Photo 2 -- This is a WIP inside my Insight. I worked a week ago on moving my switch location. It WAS on the shifter, but I never worked out a good way to get the button to stay on the shifter. :( Now however, I removed the button cap and drilled some holes in a small aluminum plate and I've mounted it so that when you're in neutral if you push left past the 1s2//2nd gate it will bump the metal plunger and push it down. I don't super like it like this, and I may re-do it, because it's hard to hear the switch being depressed and sometimes I can miss it. I probably need a different height for the metal plate and to have it offset a little more. But it does restore the OEM look of having nothing on the shifter.
 

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I saw on a Tacoma forum that a guy built a custom shift knob from a computer joystick. I'm certain theres a way to run wiring up to the existing buttons on the joystick so you could have a high tech looking shift knob with buttons that actually do something other than look cool. As I start to learn more about the FAS and troubleshoot my calpod switch I might try to make said shift knob.
 

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Engine-Off-Coast
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I saw on a Tacoma forum that a guy built a custom shift knob from a computer joystick. I'm certain theres a way to run wiring up to the existing buttons on the joystick so you could have a high tech looking shift knob with buttons that actually do something other than look cool. As I start to learn more about the FAS and troubleshoot my calpod switch I might try to make said shift knob.
@*sean* on this website has a joystick for his shifter, I think he has wired the buttons up to some things.

I do want to mention, the method shown above, I had to reposition that mounting plate, but in its current location it has been FANTASTIC. I just hold the shifter a little further left than normal and the Auto-Stop kicks in. And it looks stock, it makes it like a special trick you can do.
 

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Awesome. So I finally got my calpod working. Turns out the LED in the first switch was drawing too much power. The new switch with no LED worked right out of the gate.

So admittedly a lot of this electrical stuff is lost on me. Does someone build and sell these? I'm just not confident enough in my ability to decipher the diagrams to build it correctly.
 
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