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Don't know. I bought my 2010 ES (UK model ( at 22,500 miles and 1.5 years old.

Since it's had whatever synthetic 0w20 the dealer put in for the first oil change and then 3 lots of Honda Green Oil. Hasn't used any oil between changes so far. It's now coming up for 61,000 miles.
Hi,as an insight owner,2010,just wondering if I can use my sealey vacum pump to change oil,,is it safe?appreciate any helpful advice,thank you.
 

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Is this normally use for changing oil? I guess it sok as long as the engine is not running. When you undo the drain bolt you get out any small particles in the pan or even sludge, etc.

I believe on the gen 1 the oil dip stick runs into the timing chain and if you insert a hose down there to suck the oil out it can get entangled.
 

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Is this normally use for changing oil? I guess it sok as long as the engine is not running. When you undo the drain bolt you get out any small particles in the pan or even sludge, etc.

I believe on the gen 1 the oil dip stick runs into the timing chain and if you insert a hose down there to suck the oil out it can get entangled.
When I first got my car it had 4 qts of oil in it. I managed to get a thin plastic tube into the dip stick tube and drain the car down to the full mark.

I did have to rotate the tube back and forth while inserting it in the tube but it seemed to hit the bottom. I tapered the end of the plastic tube to help guide it past whatever was in the way.

The tube has to be very thin to fit in the G1 dip stick tube and it took several hours to siphon the oil down. An oil change suction pump could do the job much faster.

A local G1 owner bought a Harbor Freight suction oil pump thing and changed his oil that way. I don't know how much oil he actually was able to get out of the engine. I would guess he would have mentioned something it it took a noticeable amount less than normal though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I first got my car it had 4 qts of oil in it. I managed to get a thin plastic tube into the dip stick tube and drain the car down to the full mark.

I did have to rotate the tube back and forth while inserting it in the tube but it seemed to hit the bottom. I tapered the end of the plastic tube to help guide it past whatever was in the way.

The tube has to be very thin to fit in the G1 dip stick tube and it took several hours to siphon the oil down. An oil change suction pump could do the job much faster.

A local G1 owner bought a Harbor Freight suction oil pump thing and changed his oil that way. I don't know how much oil he actually was able to get out of the engine. I would guess he would have mentioned something it it took a noticeable amount less than normal though.
Thanks Cobb,I've used it for my last 3 cars,tube inserts through the dipstick,but not all the way down,works like siphoning a tank,was going to use it every 2nd service,when I change the filter also,,as a newbie to Honda insight, wasn't sure ,as obviously the aluminium engine block isn't as robust as a normal one,so I was double checking from you good folks here,to see if its OK to use,again,thanks
 

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I've heard of people using those, but if you don't get down to the lowest part of the oil pan, you're probably going to leave some sludge in there.

I always warm up the oil by running the engine or change it after I get back from a drive somewhere. Can't be too hot or you get burned, but by having the oil really warm, it tends to allow more of the suspended bits to be carried out of the oil drain plug. The more of the contaminants you can get out, the cleaner the new oil will be when you fire it up again.

What's the aspiration tube made from?
 

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+1. Why would you want to substitute a procedure that MIGHT work properly for one that DOES work properly? It's just not that hard to change oil, and it gives you a chance to look around under the car and possibly find something else that needs attention. If it's too much trouble for you to drain the oil, just take it to a shop and pay someone else to do it.

Sam
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As I have one,and used it on my last 4 cars ,why not?every 2 nd service I change filter,do instead of jacking car,etc,can just popbthe tube in ,bacum,suck oil out,10 minutes,mo mess,and as I don't have a garage, and here in Ireland, wet weather in winter is a definite, I tend to stay off the ground as much as possible
 

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Well, it has the potential to be sub-optimal compared to the standard solution, as it might leave crap in your engine that would otherwise be removed.
 

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Alter drained, I put some new oil in ,run it,drain again,if oil is clear/clean,I know its sludge free
 

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Except for the crap that's laying on the bottom that the pump can't reach.

I would never do this on a car I care about, or one that I plan to keep a long time. You've done it on four cars, so maybe this doesn't apply to you. So go ahead and do it your way. It'll probably be ok, but I'm not going to endorse it. It's just too easy to do it right.

Sam
 

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Garrydhu, is your Insight 2 doors or 4 doors?

If its the newer 4 door one you should change the cvt fluid too and the drain plug requires wiping on a napkin as it is a magnet that collects loose particles that float around inside the tranny.

I watch my oil minder and do it around 20%. I do the cvt fluid too and make sure I have some of those fender clips on hand. I sit aside 4 hours on a weekend of Federal holiday to do it.

The belly pan does make it a pain, but I like to inspect my under side. Plus I always find missing clips and need to replace them to keep my car together.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cvt fluid changed,plus oil,filter,air filter,thanks for good advice,,, really appreciate it, newbie to Honda
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Cobb,on a separate note,,,,I can't see radiator fluid release nut,whilst looking down from above engine,,can it only be seen/opened from underneath the car, and if so do I have to take the belly plan off to gain access to it,,,,tnx,in advance,,,,car a jap import without manual
 

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Should be able to find the Insight manual online.
 

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Except for the crap that's laying on the bottom that the pump can't reach.
Do you think that this small hole from the Drain Plug is able to drain the "crap that's laying on the bottom" ??

IF you got non-liqiud "crap" inside of your Engine you better open the engine and clean it manually.
IF the engine is in "normal" shape, the additives in the standart Engine Oil is able to solube the Dirt and keep it liquide, so a vacuum Pump will get it IF it reaches the lowest spot of the Oilpan.

I did use a vacuum device to suck out the Oil from my ZE2 and I got the Oil out of the pan (without Crap because of an Engine in good shape and a high quality Oil from the last Oilchange)

I try the next time to vacuum the Oil from the CVT, and after I will remove the CVT-Oilpan to clean it and to clean the magnets and to fit a new Filter insight the CVT.

Afterwards I knew if I can make the CVT-Oilchange the next time with my Vacuum Device.

Greetings Auric
 

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The block has a drain bolt on the back side by the exhaust manifold and passenger side firewall. Maybe easier and faster to unscrew the larger plug that the block heater goes into.

The radiator has a drain down at the very bottom and you need to remove the belly pan to reach it.

Mines did not drain, so I ended up using the hose and unclamping some hoses. The drain started to drain and with more flushing I got it cleared. I then put everything together and drove a couple of miles with water and flush in the system. If it werent for that clog I wouldnt of done the flushing with the hose and the bottle of flush mix.

Almost all antifreeze works on hondas. Its all non silica.
 
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