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I recently bought a 2000 insight with 216,000 miles. It's very "used" and has a salvage title, but I got it cheap and the A/C works, and I needed a daily driver to work with good gas mileage. Anyway, when I test drove the vehicle and for a few days after the charge and assist was working with no IMA light but the battery status indicator would either be full or drained, and jump in between the two with no in between. After reading diff. threads I started sourcing the parts to build a grid charger/discharger to try and balance the battery cells. A couple of days ago on my way home from work at night the charge and assist quit working. I read the DTC codes and got 1576, 1449, 1445. I read a little on here and I am thinking the battery is done, which honestly doesn't surprise me, but I figured I'd start a thread and try to get some opinions and possible confirmation.
 

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I read the DTC codes and got 1576, 1449, 1445. I read a little on here and I am thinking the battery is done, which honestly doesn't surprise me, but I figured I'd start a thread and try to get some opinions and possible confirmation.
I tend to agree that the battery is probably gone. When the battery goes quickly from low or empty to indicated full very quickly it is a sign of very limited operating range before the imbalance under load triggers a 1449 and others.

Sometimes you can get a bit more life from an old battery by grid charging and discharging, but it isn't terribly promising for real problem batteries.

You might try a system reset by removing the 12V negative for a few seconds. This may get the IMA light off briefly, but it doesn't cure any real problems.

If the 12V battery light on the gauge cluster is lit, then the dc-dc converter isn't working and the car will soon stall and leave you stranded!

Some of those codes have multiple meanings. You can blink the codes and read the subcodes which are slightly more meaningful. Use this ref:


Get back to us.
 

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Try unhooking the 12 volt..se if you get 4 bars of charge. Check ground straps all three. Than if you can get get the car to auto stop, drive the car til its warmed up. Drive to your home and let it drift into autostop,set parking brake . Let it sit ,dont turn key off,let it drain down til you see the 12 volt light come on. All the regenerating bars will drop down to 1 or none ,make take a hour. Than push clutch ,car should come back to running. Than throttle up til 3500 rpm til you see the bars come back.
 

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You might try a system reset by removing the 12V negative for a few seconds. This may get the IMA light off briefly, but it doesn't cure any real problems.

If the 12V battery light on the gauge cluster is lit, then the dc-dc converter isn't working and the car will soon stall and leave you stranded!
No IMA light or 12v battery light just no charge and assist bars and the IMA battery bars stay at full charge. I will try to blink the codes and then take of the 12v negative and try to reset the system. I wouldn't doubt if that what was done before the car was sold to me. I was also wondering if there is are certain things you should or should not do while driving a hybrid? Like downshifting to help come to a stop (the car is a manual). Is this harmful since it puts the charge to full bars too quick? I will reply again with the blink codes I get. Thanks for the info.
 

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Try unhooking the 12 volt..se if you get 4 bars of charge. Check ground straps all three. Than if you can get get the car to auto stop, drive the car til its warmed up. Drive to your home and let it drift into autostop,set parking brake . Let it sit ,dont turn key off,let it drain down til you see the 12 volt light come on. All the regenerating bars will drop down to 1 or none ,make take a hour. Than push clutch ,car should come back to running. Than throttle up til 3500 rpm til you see the bars come back.
Thanks for the info
 

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The blink code I think I got was 23 (2 slow 3 fast) but it was the EPS light blinking not the IMA light?
 

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The blink code I think I got was 23 (2 slow 3 fast) but it was the EPS light blinking not the IMA light?
This a little confusing, to me at least. Usually we think of the blink codes as being sub-codes of primary codes(like the sub-codes of the 1449), but the EPS section of the Service Manual does not show any subcodes for the EPS. Therefore, I assume the 23 is a primary code for the EPS. If that is the case then the code means, "A problem with the engine spead signal circuit." The Service Manual has a two page troubleshooting procedure. Do you have the manual?

Since you did not see any subcodes for the 1449, and others, I'm wondering if you reset the codes before you tried to read sub-codes - as Honda hybrid 442 suggested. If you did that then you won't see all the sub-codes. Not having any codes on the IMA makes me think you must have done a system reset?

This link is frequently helpful, but it offers little help on EPS systems:

 

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This a little confusing, to me at least. Usually we think of the blink codes as being sub-codes of primary codes(like the sub-codes of the 1449), but the EPS section of the Service Manual does not show any subcodes for the EPS. Therefore, I assume the 23 is a primary code for the EPS. If that is the case then the code means, "A problem with the engine spead signal circuit." The Service Manual has a two page troubleshooting procedure. Do you have the manual?

Since you did not see any subcodes for the 1449, and others, I'm wondering if you reset the codes before you tried to read sub-codes - as Honda hybrid 442 suggested. If you did that then you won't see all the sub-codes. Not having any codes on the IMA makes me think you must have done a system reset?

This link is frequently helpful, but it offers little help on EPS systems:

So when the charge/assist stopped working originally I read the codes with my OBDII reader and then I did try and erase them but they did not erase. The next thing I did was start this discussion and after getting your suggestions I tried to read the blink codes BEFORE unplugging the negative terminal on the 12V battery. I didn't get the IMA to blink but the EPS was blinking. I then unplugged the 12V battery terminal and the system reset and on my way home from work last night the charge and assist was working. Today on my way to work the charge and assist quit working again. The IMA light still has not yet illuminated. I just read the codes again and only got the 1449. I then tried to blink the codes again without erasing them on my OBDII reader and still no blinking of the IMA light. Thank you again for the help. I do not have a manual by the way.
Now my question is this.... Is it worth it to put the time, money, and effort into building a grid charger to do a charge/discharge balance on the battery or is it too gone? Should I just start thinking about a new battery or not using the IMA at all. I bought the car for $500 dollars with a salvage title, no accurate history, and over 200,000 miles. I don't know if it's worth spending $1000+ on a new battery.
 

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^Yeah, I see your delimma.

With the car not having a lot of monetary value, decisions become tough. If it is an MT, then you can run the car in battery bypass mode with little effect on the highway. Acceleration is slowed in city driving.

Rather than use a scanner, try this procedure to get the 1449 blink codes (There will likely be several, so let them cycle through several times and make good notes):


A bent paper clip makes a good jumper.

It also occurs to me that since you aren't seeing the IMA light, it may be burned out, or someone may have removed it. You can check by looking in the bottom right corner of the dash gauge immediately when you turn the ignition on. It should light for a few seconds as a self check.

Keep a careful eye on the battery light. Check it also, by the above procedure, but if it comes on, the car will stall on long trips and leave you stranded.

Report back please.
 

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^Yeah, I see your delimma.

With the car not having a lot of monetary value, decisions become tough. If it is an MT, then you can run the car in battery bypass mode with little effect on the highway. Acceleration is slowed in city driving.

Rather than use a scanner, try this procedure to get the 1449 blink codes (There will likely be several, so let them cycle through several times and make good notes):


A bent paper clip makes a good jumper.

It also occurs to me that since you aren't seeing the IMA light, it may be burned out, or someone may have removed it. You can check by looking in the bottom right corner of the dash gauge immediately when you turn the ignition on. It should light for a few seconds as a self check.

Keep a careful eye on the battery light. Check it also, by the above procedure, but if it comes on, the car will stall on long trips and leave you stranded.

Report back please.
Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the IMA light not even working for whatever reason. It does not come on at the start up of the car. However the 12V light does, so that's nice lol. I was doing the jumper to try and get the blink codes. Is there a link or can you give me instructions for the battery bypass mode? Thank you
 

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Yeah I was thinking the same thing about the IMA light not even working for whatever reason. It does not come on at the start up of the car. However the 12V light does, so that's nice lol. I was doing the jumper to try and get the blink codes. Is there a link or can you give me instructions for the battery bypass mode? Thank you
And would you consider the battery junk? Or is there some way of reconditioning it? Maybe like a less expensive albeit labor intensive method? In your opinion would grid charging?discharging do anything for it?
 
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