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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
****Nevermind I was a bit panicked and didn't search to find out you could just connect 2 pins like the Chev. :) I'll do this tonight and then search for the code.

This site is great!!!!!!****

This morning on the way to work the Check Engine light came on so I turned around and drove it home.

Since this is my first issue on a newer Honda I need to ask where the tester connection is located since nothing hangs out there like my past older Fords and Chevys. I have been driving Honda's for years and will no longer buy anything else due to the fact that they run so dang smooth and problem free!

Car Info:

2001 Insight M/T With A/C

89Oct fuel since it is the same price as 87 where I get gas

2 tank fulls of cleaner every 4,000 to 5,000 mi

Mobile 1 0w 20 changed every 6,500 miles

Driven 75% Hwy/25% City with out alot of stop and go and a speed limit on the Hwy of 65mph. I do wind it out to keep it from getting any buildup from time to time.

K&N Filter

Driven at least 90Mi a day 5 days a week

We now have about 83,000mi on it and I was getting ready to change the engine and transmision fluid in a week or 2. :(

Known issues:
Shield under the passengers side engine is off due to seized bolts. Replacements are sitting in the garage now ready for reinstall.

Broken lower airbox when we bought itused 18 months and 37,000miles ago. This was ordered and should be at our house next week. I put it off since the local dealer wanted $63 for it and $80 for the hatch struts. All 3 new replacements are now on their way from elsewhere for under $160. :)

Our last Honda we sold was a 98 Accord with 200,000mi. It was still running great and still didn't drip any fluids, and getting 28mpg with a top of 33mpg.

Is there anything to look for and codes to possibly just reset and watch?

Thanks in advance and have a great day!

Premium Member
4,942 Posts
The pin jump technique _only_ yields the Honda blink codes.

Their not as complete as thie OBDII counterparts. In addition the freeze frame data can be immensly helpful in disgnosing some codes. (Requires a slightly more advanced code reader, various choices available)

Yah the blink codes are better than nothing and you can pay for more than you get, but you always get what you pay for :!: ;)

(sorry I don't even try to diagnose blink code "problems", although other members may...)

102 Posts

41 is P0134, A/F Sensor (#1) signal stuck lean.
or P1166, A/F Sensor heater circuit malfunction
or P1167, A/F sensor heater system malfunction

67 is P0420, Catalyst System Efficiency below threshold.

If I were you I'd replace my A/F sensor, do it yourself it's easy. Maybe that will correct the CAT code???

- Jim
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