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Discussion Starter #1
So, fitting needs a bit of work, the squab is a PITA still working on that. The left hand buttons are controlling the pie-in-ear screen, the right hand ones will be the cruise control, and I have flappy paddles to do extreme IMA (+ will be max assist - will be max regen). Buttons are illuminated green, that might have to change to amber to match the rest of the dash illumination.

87761


What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No its being a PITA. I will probably take the other connector off the other non-flappy wheel and repin it.

Or use generic female pins on one side and pot them in place. Depends if I find somewhere to park my horse first!
 

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2006 Honda Insight MT
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I have always wanted to do this mod. Please post as many details and pictures as you can! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have always wanted to do this mod. Please post as many details and pictures as you can! :)
Its not that far from fitting, my current issues are:
The original squib won't fit on the wheel shaft, the civic one clashes with the column shroud mounts so I may have to cut one of the mounts off near the ignition barrel. I don't think this will be an issue.
The wheel sits fractionally to far on the column (couple of mm) so I may have to make a shim to sit over the taper and push the wheel towards me. I will start with drinks can metal.
None of the wiring matches, I crimped the original airbag connector onto the new squib on the car side.
I need the multipin connector from the squib to the car, its the same as the one from the wheel to the squib, so for now I may just use one from another wheel.
The stereo control required a bit of a rewire on the pcb, swapping some 1206 smt resistors and cutting a track then wiring it elsewhere on the PCB.

Its close, but a few little tweets to do yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We def need pics and full details.

Previously I have used CVT clock springs and hacked MANUAL clocks springs to use the extra wires for IMA control etc.
Yes that would have been lovely, I would have put a teensy in the wheel and just converted all button presses to CAN. But the later wheel does not physically fit through the centre of the earlier clock spring. That would have saved a lot of grief. I may even revisit this idea removing some material from the wheel if the clock spring fitting poses too much trouble.
 

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2006 Honda Insight MT
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So aside from the squab it fits? If I were to do it I'd probably pick up one that had fewer or no steering wheel controls on it, as I strangely enough prefer to have no active buttons on a steering wheel. Ideally I'd like to find one that looks like this:



From what I think I remember from the two or so incomplete threads on this mod floating around IC, the airbags are the same size and you can use the stock airbag and connector in the Civic wheel, is this correct?

These are the other two threads where the same mod was attempted:

Reference for steering wheel splines compatibility:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ha Ha the second link is my thread when I started this swap about 4 years ago.

Not a completer finisher I guess!!

So, the issue is shimming the taper on the column to wheel in order to push the wheel a couple of mm away from the column. There should still be good spline engagement to transfer torque. I've sacrificed a can of BrewDogs finest beer this evening to fabricate a shim (carbon neutral brewery, in keeping with the eco sentiment of the insight), other beers may be suitable! Tomorrow i will fit the shim and test on the way to work. I will report back with success or failiure.

The wheels of that style are broadly all the same (some variation in airbag mountings and single or dual charge), so you could just buy the button-less inserts from honda and fit them to any second hand wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So that works, a small shim as shown spaces the wheel forwards a good mm or so and just nicely gives clearance to not scrape the cowl.
87805


87806

Tomorrow I will look at getting the clockspring /squib in there!

EDIT: so I noticed this morning there is still the slightest scuffing between the cowl and wheel back when turning, I may try a slightly thicker shim on there next time the wheel is off.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So this is a bit more complete now.

The shim has been updated to a sapporo can which I can measure, but I'd guess 0.6mm thick, it's chunky.

89308


This shows the set back of the wheel on the splines. Once torqued up it settles in to feel nice and solid, the clearance to the cowl is minimal but enough
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The squib is from the new wheel and requires a bit of hacking, a dremel/die-grinder and sanding drum will make light work of this.

89310


One locating pin is removed and any raised bits on the rotational section as they catch on the plastic of wiper arm base. That part also needs the raised pins removed too and some of the plastic on the lower half, mainly moulding/strengthening ribs. The squib connector will fit the column off set to about 7 o'clock.
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I've also removed the left hand cowl fixing to make room for the squib connector.
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The car side airbag connector needs swapping for the one from your old squib and the wheel side just needs to match you new airbag, which should be single stage (2wire). Airbag charges can be swapped between wheels at your own risk.

The squib wiring is a pain and I will deal with this in another post.
 
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