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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2000 insight had the head gasket replace about 2 years ago. I also purchased the OBDIIC&C reader to monitor various readouts. I live in Reno area and currently the air temps have been hovering around 104 degrees. The red LED comes on frequently and ECT has been as high as 231 degrees. Is this considered dangerously high? I do not have a coolant overflow condition and fan is working properly but I am always anxious that I will blow another head gasket. Is my anxiety warranted?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Your radiator fan should come on around 214F. I think that is also when the red led is illuminated. IIRR
Use the OBD tool and monitor the timing also. Try to keep it around 10 Degrees for good cooling. Less timing yields higher coolant temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. The ECT temp works in 4 degree increments I believe, 213 no led and 217 the red led comes on. Good idea about the engine timing - It is not one of the default readings so I need to read up on how to change readings. I will check it. Thanks for info!
 

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Even at 104F the coolant temp should not get to 231F, IMO. The Insight cooling system is quiet effective if everything is working properly. The normal reading is about 198F. I've never seen mine over 200F, even on 100deg days here in Richmond.

As Willie says, make sure the fan is coming on. If that is ok then suspect something else. There was one rare case where the pickup tube in the expansion tank had fallen off. When this happens the engine loses coolant when it gets hot and expands, but it can't siphon coolant back into the engine, so the coolant level in the engine gets low.

Are you certain that the system was ever adequately purged of air. There is a procedure in the service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree - 231 seems awfully high. I have checked the air purge valve since the head gasket replacement because I understand how important it is to "burp" it. Coolant right out right away with no air trapped so it is ok. I checked the fan today when I returned home and it was running fine. I will check the overflow tank tomorrow to make sure the pickup tube is ok. It has me baffled and I was hoping someone with the OBDIIC&C could tell me what temps to expect in these hot summer months, Other than the high readings everything seems to be working fine. No coolant overflow etc Also, radiator is brand new.. I sure don't want to end up doing another head gasket replacement because it overheated again.

Tom
 

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I agree - 231 seems awfully high. I have checked the air purge valve since the head gasket replacement because I understand how important it is to "burp" it. Coolant right out right away with no air trapped so it is ok.

Tom
Tom, I'm really afraid that you haven't done the purge correctly. You must connect a funnel and a length of hose to the purge nipple, fill the funnel half way, and let the engine run. Add coolant to the funnel as the bubbles work their way out. Otherwise, air pockets will be trapped within the engine and cylinder head. Don't drive the car until you have followed the proper procedure. :)
 

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Use this procedure and you can't go wrong:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll perform the procedure when I get the funnel and clear tubing. Before I had head gasket replaced I noticed that that metal tube with the 45 degree bend in it was entirely clogged up with carbon. Apparently the blown head gasket was pushing carbon throughout the cooling system. I advised the mechanic to clear the tube when he had the engine apart but I haven't checked it to make sure he did that. If the tube is still clogged with carbon then I have a big problem because I tried numerous methods to clean the carbon out but was unsuccessful. That tube is part of another coolant assy and its expensive and not easy to replace. I hope he cleared the clogged tube. Thanks for the info.

Tom
 

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I may have that tube or Scott might be able to get you one. Can you provide a picture for identification purposes?

I'd do the burp procedure first, according to Willie's link and see if that solves the problem. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The tube I am referring to is at 1:23 in the video provided in this thread. It is right next to the coolant air bleed valve and is called Capped Coolant Inlet for Purging. It comes straight up, makes a 45 degree turn upward then goes straight up again. That is the tube that was completely clogged and because of the 45 degree bend I never was able to get it unclogged. There is a good chance that it is still clogged and is probably the reason there is air in system that can't be burped. Best I can determine, that tube is press fitted in and not designed to be removed by itself but if I am wrong I am all ears. It seems useless to do the air purging procedure unless that tube is open all the way. I hope I am making myself clear.

Tom
 

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That tube is what you use for the "purging" of the system. How did you purge the system before?
Confused.
 

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I think from what he has said that he didn't purge air at all because the purge tube is blocked by carbon deposits.

How long has the car been operating like this?

Like I said, I wouldn't be driving the car in these temperatures with the coolant temp running so high. Just encouraging a warped head or another blown head basket or both:(
 

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I encounter these tubes to occasionally be plugged, mostly rusty, I’ve never seen carbon.

With a small drill bit, you can clean down the tube to the first bend. The I take a small diameter piece of welding rod about 8” long and put it in my cordless drill and gently work my way through the rusty clog. It’s a bit like snaking a sewer drain.

I’ve had to do this procedure about a half a dozen times and have always been able to clear the passage.

May the force be with you,
Scott
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I think a bit of history is required. I bought the car knowing it had an overheating problem and got it for a song. I did all the easy fixes (thermostat, etc) before I was convinced it was a blown head gasket. I then tried Head Gasket sealer and it worked well for 3 or 4 months then I would use it again. I limped it along that way for about a year until I finally bit the bullet and did the major repair job. It was during this period of using the sealer that I discovered the blocked tube. I live in a trailer park and don't have the tools I once had to work on cars (nor the area needed) so couldn't do much to free the tube up effectively, so here I am. I will be moving to a new location in the next few months and will have access to tools and a shop area - If I can keep it from blowing up till then I will be in a better position to fix it right. In the meantime I will try to determine if the tube is still clogged or not. More than likely is. Thanks for all the help and feedback guys.

Tom
 

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You can still try Scott's fix, even if you have to use an cord type drill and a piece of utility wire. Try to avoid driving the car!

You can take a bus, or share a ride, or maybe even borrow a car occasionally. :)
 

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I agree on the high temps. Even with my "sport driving" I never see anything over 220F. Fix the burp fitting and burp right.
Anyone near Sparks NV to give him a hand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I took the top plug off of the Coolant Inlet purging tube that I have been describing and started the engine up - nothing coming out of the tube - totally blockage! BTW, when I tried cleaning out the tube long ago the residual from the tube was totally black and that is why I surmised that the build up was carbon and not just rusty. I wish they would have made that tube with threads on it! The caked carbon is extremely hard to remove.and the bend in the tube makes it almost impossible. What I really need is a flexible drill bit with a very tiny head to make the bend. So far I have been unable to find such a thing. Also, it finally came to me that the mechanic that did the work on my car roughly 2 years ago told me that they have a special tool for removing the air from the coolant system and therefore they don't use the Honda maintenance procedure. This is a shop that specializes in hybrid vehicles so I have a tendency to trust them, but any input on this "special method" would be helpful.

Thanks,
Tom
 

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What about a bore brush or the like? - you can get them in brass to not destroy the metal orifice, but likely will destroy the brush with your drill.

Search for power tube brush - they have them at Northern Tool, Amazon, etc.. grab a few as you will likely bend/destroy them as you clean it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the tip but I have already tried that. Problem is the metal used to hold the bristles is too rigid to make the 45 deg bend. There is more than enough clearance to have done away with the bend and just made it straight up, but no. I have been able to get maybe 1/2 " past the first bend but that is as far as I have been able to get. My guess is that the carbon buildup is probably below where the tube attaches to its housing and I have even given thought to cutting the 45 deg bend out all together but I would be left with a very short stub if I did that. Frustrating problem. The water level in the radiator was down to the first row of cooling fins so I topped that off as well as the overflow reservoir. Took a trip on the freeway and temp still fluctuating between 221 and 231. What is interesting is the temp gauge in the dash still shows 6 to 7 bars which is normal temp range. If I didn't have the OBDIIC&C reader I wouldn't be posting here about this. Elevation here is about 4500 feet so maybe its nothing to be overly concerned about?.
 

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I had coolant temps over 220* for a while and the engine was super weak once it got warmed up. On initial start from cold, engine power was fine. Burping the coolant was a long, tedious process. Turned out to be a bad thermostat. Temps went down to 198 or so and burping the air out was quick after that.
 
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