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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
G1 Insights @ Coparts auctions, 3/27 @ El Paso & 4/23 @ Chicago

Chicago 4/23 Lot #17102585, red right rear damage, clean, appears drive able. 132k miles, nice car except for the sideswipe on rear spat and corner.

HOND INSIGHT


El Paso 3/27 Lot #19421295. CITRUS! very straight, spats missing is the only visible defect. very nice car too, 118k miles, no idea why this car is at auction. maybe donated.

HOND INSIGHT
 

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What's the cost out the door over and above the vehicle price? I know some of it the public can bid on. Some of it you need a license.
 

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Yeah, I've been trying to figure that out. The fee structure is real. There could be $200-400 in fees depending on what it sold for. Also, it appears as though I can't buy the citrus directly in Texas without being a licensed dealer because it has clean title. I can go through a "broker" and they would charge a $200+ fee for buying through them. Then there's the normal taxes and title. If you want it shipped that'll run around $700+. If I'm able to buy it I'll take a bus to El Paso and attempt to drive it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
can you become a licensed dealer? call your local coparts yard and talk to someone there about what they expect for you to be a 'licensed dealer' because i think you could actually set up a business and register as a salvage business and bid on it.

like i said, in oregon we can bid because state law allows it. i did not know that originally and got sucked into becoming a member of a purchasing ring who would bid for me. but that just resulted in them hacking into my credit card on the bank i used. then i found out i could join coparts directly. i think there are several other states besides oregon that allow it.

call coparts. tell them that you are set up in business to part out and rebuild these cars and wanna know how to become eligible to bid.

create a dummy letterhead using software on the computer and print it out and mail it to them along with a bank account set up in that name. that should do it. but call them. i found them helpful when i went into the office.

i recommend going to the car first before bidding. if it is drive able then drive it out of the yard and park it in their parking lot while you go rent a dolly to carry it home.

go there early the day of the auction, inspect it and leave your high bid on their 'kiosk' and wait to see if you get the car and if you do then pay for it and take title on the spot.

they may even let you park it there for a few days in their parking lot while you go for the dolly or find a friend to go back out there with you to drive it home. take a fresh 12V battery. start it up in the yard to verify it runs and will charge the IMA pack.

if it has IMA errors then you might consider taking the battery out of one of your cars and hauling it there and replacing the battery in that car with yours once you get it away from their lot so it could be driven back to your place. or make a bypass so you can connect the DC converter to the inverter ouput directly. you could even do this with some jumper wires with alligator clips on the ends since the current is low enuff i think. just unplug the orange plug and put the alligator clips on the spades in the DC converter plug side and the clip them to the + - on top of the battery or even disconnect them and clip the alligator clips on just the inverter ring terminals. keeping everything insulated and free from shorting. that would be bad.

they are very strict about working on the cars in their lot. but you never know and they may not mind if it is just battery replacement and you will be gone in a half hour when the new battery is in place.

also, i think the only cars that should be getting parted out are those like that rollover in denver. seeing people part out perfectly good cars is revolting to me. i even hate to see them on here when they are now so rare. i never thought i could afford to buy one until this auction but even that has overwhelmed my credit cards now. so thinking that these cars are now considered so cheap that they are only of value parted out is really really offensive and personally disgusting unless they have major structural damage.
 

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In Texas, they need a sales tax use license and a Texas state car dealer's license both on file. Even if I tried to get these, it wouldn't be before Friday. I talked to a friend that has a friend that may be a registered dealer in Texas. I could maybe go through them. If that can't work out, there is a list of "brokers" that coparts has, but no one on that list is in Texas so I don't see how they would be able to buy the car for me. Also, yeah, I could see them being shady businesses.
 

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I'd love to buy the red one to revive 1 of 2 rolling chassis I have setting in my shop. My problem is, the two I have are to far gone part wise to revive without having a parts car like the one in Chicago.
 

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My experience with Copart

I've had a pretty negative experience with Copart. I've had to go thru a broker that cost me appx $300 per car. Then coparts fees added another $300-500. And each time your car is brought to you from copart, it is by a fork lift. Bought 3-4 cars and all dropped off onto my trailer by forklift (of course there is a drop fee involved). And some of these cars were running but they would not drive them out nor would I be allowed to drive it out. It is dropped at your feet or trailer outside of the containing area. Then each car was over hyped. I have found no bargains at any of my Copart auctions. Including one that the front bumper was on the car, in photos, but was dropped at trailer with no front bumper. Excuses but no reduction in fees.

On another note, there was an article in the Indy News about guys getting busted for having set up wholesale licenses. They were arresting violators and subjecting them to large fines for violations. They said anyone with a wholesaler license COULD NOT SELL DIRECTLY TO THE PUBLIC, and if they caught you selling by craigslist or ebay you were busted. A lot of scammers in the car business so those licenses to buy from auctions, etc are watched and controlled very closely, at least here in Indy.

Gerald
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
auction fees really really annoy me too. they climbed to 13% on the stand up auction i follow here.

i suspect they will allow you to drive it from the yard if it runs and starts.

their loaders use those long forks so they might not even fit between the rear wheels from the front. (cringes to think of it.)

the car in chicago just needs the right rear quarter panel and some hammer and anvil skills on the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i had another idea. why not register with coparts and use my home address in portland during the online registration. they will wanna have a photocopy of your id online for you to bid but you can email them a picture of your driver's license and that would be good enuff. just make a statement that you are now resident in oregon which i can then confirm if needed.

the car is on assignment so i doubt if they would approve the sale the same day, maybe by monday or even wednesday of next week. it does appear it runs since they established it started and idled. but expect IMA/CEL so need to prepare with another battery or to fix the DC converter/inverter tie.
 

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I don't think I can do anything about the citrus. There's just too many risky issues surrounding this whole scenario. If I was closer to El Paso, I might go investigate, but even though I'm in Texas, I'm about as close to El Paso as someone in Colorado. If I was able to buy it from an individual, I'd be willing to take the 14 hour bus ride out there and drive it back. The problem is that coparts is a potentally somewhat shady wholesale action house and Texas regulates its wholesale car market as a racket. If I do bid on it, they're going to make me go through a broker, but they don't even have one listed in Texas, so I don't see how they can even sell me the car according to Texas rules. They also state that the car might not even be in the same condition by the time I pick it up and yeah, the donator, it looks like, has to approve the bid. I have 3 days to pay for it and 5 days to pick it up or they charge more fees. I could go out there this Sunday and pick it up Monday morning, but any other time for the next ten days doesn't work for me. I hate that some idiot let this car end up in this situation, but I don't have the means to rescue it. Maybe someone will get it for pretty cheap not knowing what they have really and it'll turn up for resale in the El Paso area for something close to blue book value. Keep an eye on craigslist and Ebay?

TLDR: wish I could, but can't buy it.
 
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