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Discussion Starter #1
I've read the archives tech article re:installation of aftermarket cruise control on a manual Insight. Nicely done. Has anyone tried this on a later model CVT-equipped Insight?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow, that's great. Does anyone know if Rostra's still offering this kit?

I noticed someone mentioned in a post that they had installed the switches on the left side of the steering wheel. Is wiring involved, or are they using some form of infrared or RF signal for the switches?
 

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That was me :lol: The switch is RF and the I placed the receiver
behind the dash vertical right of the coin tray. It looks really nice
and nearly matches the style of the D/S switch. It just clips on the
back of the steering wheel. I believe Rosta still sells them but you
have to ask for Insight throttle kit and RF switch option.

JoeCVT - Just your average CVT owner
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was able to pull the part numbers off the Rostra website. I came up with the following stuff:

250-1223 Cruise Control Unit
250-4325 Throttle Adapter
250-1483 RF Control Switch

Does this look right? Also, does anyone have a good retil source for the Rostra kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tipoff, I grabbed it this AM. I'm sure I'll be looking for some help with the installation once it arrives. Thanks!
 

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I installed the same Rostra control kit and it has functioned flawlessly for almost four years now. Just don't ground it to the bar that supports the battery tray, it looks tempting but it is not a good ground. For mechanical support it works very well as long as it is mounted as far away from the exhaust system as possible.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, we're moving right along. I received the kit last night and had time today (Saturday 1/28) to unbox the bits, scan the instructions and scope out the vehicle itself.

The three parts kits are very comprehensive and look to be high quality. The instructions? Well, let's just say the numerous kit instructions require a lot of interpretation, are overly verbose but vague at the same and leave it at that! :wink: To that end, Tom Hudson's article really helps connect the dots, as does the earlier install article by Liten Verden.

Before I get started I have a number of questions if anyone cares to answer:

1) On a CVT am I correct in asuming there is no need to install the "disengagement" switch? That is, will the system function properly by simply tapping into the brake light switch wires as the instructions indicate?

2) Where / how did anyone mount the RF reciever for the switch pack?

3) For those of you who installed this kit, which fuse did you piggyback off of for system power, or, where is the so-called "accessory power" Liten spoke of in his article? The kit uses a trick little bent / tabbed connector that's supposed to go under a fuse, however, they don't indcate which one. (Rather not have the thing on all the time!)

Thanks for any input, I'll give a "blow by blow" once I get rolling.

By the way thanks to Tom for his actuator bracket diagram. This will save a lot of garage engineering!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, we're really rolling now. Last night I made a mounting bracket per Tom's specs, and it worked perfectly. With the actuator mounted I installed the cable, which went fairly smoothly. A point here, you use the "eyelet connector" to attach the actuator cable to the supplied Insight throttle adapter, not a bead chain link as described in the instructions.

Next I threaded the actuator wiring into the cab through the heater cable hole. After sliding the suppied plastic conduit over the harness that's exposed to the engine compartment, I disassembled the harness at its two small connectors and attempted to thread them through the heater cable hole. Naturally, the one with the male lock tab went right throuigh, the female one decided to be a PITA and absolutely would not fit through. I ended up having to use a Dremel to grind away the little ridges on the connector a bit, after which it made it through along with the conduit.

At this point I'm taking a soda break, hoping someone has an answer to my disengagement switch question. I plan to install the wiring to the brake light switch without it. Hope it works!

More later.
 

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You do not have to connect the clutch wiring or the switch in the kit for
the clutch, the brake wires (connected properly) will disengage the
cruise control. In my secnd post, I mentioned that I placed the receiver
behind the dash to the right of the coin tray.

JoeCVT - Just your average CVT owner
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, well, all done!

Took it out for a spin and it worked right first time. A few observations that may help any of you thinking about this kit.

1) As Joe pointed out, on a CVT you do not need to install the supplied disengagement switch, just tap into the brake switch wires: white with green trace gets the red (hot) wire, one of the two green with white trace wires gets the violet (ground) wire.

(Editorial note: as an ex-master tech, I DETEST "Scotch Lock" wire taps. However, with this install there's no easy way to avoid them, so I decided to just crimp away and hope they don't lose continuity. They will....)

2) A lot has been written about attaching the cruise harness's grey wire for the Vehcle Speed Sensor (VSS) to the "blue & white #5" wire at the blue ECM connector. Here's a couple of observations:

A) As has been noted, the ECM is attached to the black panel under the passenger floor carpet. The carpet is a PITA to pull back, I ended up breaking one of the press pins that hold it in place, and a staple on the "A" pillar had to be pulled loose to get the carpet far enough back to get the panel free.

B) After removing the four 10mm nuts the panel & ECM are still a BEAR to get free. I ended up CAREFULLY removing all 4 of the multi pin connectors so that I could work on the blue connector / #5 blue/white wire without further hassle.

C) Again, I HATE using a "Scotch Lock" here as well, but had no real alternative. The 4 blue Scotch Lock tap connectors supplied work with the other connections ok, but here the little blue & white #5 wire could be too small for the crimp spade to cut the insulation into the wire. Mine worked, but it will most likely come loose eventually. Worse, if it ends up breaking the blue/white wire, the engine wil quit, period. This one really needs to be soldered & insulated

3) As Joe points out, the reciever module begs to be installed right next to the pull down coin tray. Unfortunately, that's not an easy place to get a good tight mount without drilling holes in the under dash panel. I ended up just using two Zip ties to attach it to the nearby wiring harnesses.

4) I ended up using a "Scotch Lock" to tie the power wire for the actualtor to the reciever's power wire, which has a little fuse tap tab pre-installed. The fuse tap is a Mickey Mouse way of getting power, but for now it'll do. I plan to find a way to get switched power with a more solid attachment later.

5) Fuse #12 under the dash is a 10a for the accessory socket on the dash and makes a perfect place to use the above mentioned little power tap tab.

6) I siamesed the system ground and the blue tach wire together with an eyelet connector and attached them to one of the hood release screws on the body.

7) the receiver unit has a little antenna wire coming out of it, which I made sure to keep away from wire bundles, etc. to reduce interference.

8) The control swiches are easy to mount, but are a bit "spongy" feeeling. The mounting clip allows them to flex a bit. I may try wedging something under them to get a more solid feel.

9) Not sure how long the control switche's 3v battery will last, but I plan to get a couple spares to keep in the glove box.

In operation the system engaged immediately upon activation. The system tends to lose 3-4 mph when first engaged , then slowly makes it up to the set-point. I may need to check the adjustment of the throttle cable to remove a bit more slack. I live in the Southwest, about 1000ft above town. The system allowed a 3 mph acceleration drift doing downhill, but stayed within 1 mph coming back up the mountain. Not bad!

In summary, this is NOT a kit for the neophyte, but an experienced tech can install it in about 4-6 hours using info available here on the website. The manufacturer's printed info is OK, but includes too many supplements and a LOT of vague, confusing information. All that being said, I HIGHLY revommend the kit, it fixes the primary complaint I have about the InNsight and is well worth the money.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh, a couple other points.

The kit comes with many extraneous parts that end up being more confusion than anything else. If you make your own actuator bracket, like the one in Tom's article, you'll discard even more stuff. It helps the flow of things if you separate out just the stuff you'll need and bag the rest. You'll end up using only the following parts:

Actuator & Harness
2 mounting screws for the actuator
1 10mm nut to thread the actuator sleeve
plastic sleeve adjustment nut
sleeve guide / mounting bracket
throttle adaptor lever
eyelet connector (only one supplied)
1 connector sleeve
1 cotter pin
cable conduit
4 scotch lock tap connectors
receiver & harness kit
transmitter kit

I bagged everything else, which amounts to a LOT of stuff.

The only parts that I needed beyond what came in the kit were about 12" of 2" aluminum angle stock (for the actuator bracket), two 6mm bolts, long enough to attach the homemade actuator bracket, and a handful of Zip ties. Not bad for an aftermarket product.

Also, Joe, thanks for your very valuable input, and especially your tip on the Ebay link. They were excellent to deal with, the kit was here in just a few days, no hassle.


Finally, if you're as old as me, which is, well, not too young, the Insights under-dash are is REALLY cramped, and laying sprawled upside down with the rocker panel as a back support for an hour or so is not what I call fun. (I'll be a cripple in the morning!) If you have access to a shop with a lift it may make the interior wiring, etc. a less painful experience.
 

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Valiant118 said:
Ok, well, all done!

(Editorial note: as an ex-master tech, I DETEST "Scotch Lock" wire taps. However, with this install there's no easy way to avoid them, so I decided to just crimp away and hope they don't lose continuity. They will....)

B) After removing the four 10mm nuts the panel & ECM are still a BEAR to get free. I ended up CAREFULLY removing all 4 of the multi pin connectors so that I could work on the blue connector / #5 blue/white wire without further hassle.

C) Again, I HATE using a "Scotch Lock" here as well, but had no real alternative. The 4 blue Scotch Lock tap connectors supplied work with the other connections ok, but here the little blue & white #5 wire could be too small for the crimp spade to cut the insulation into the wire. Mine worked, but it will most likely come loose eventually. Worse, if it ends up breaking the blue/white wire, the engine wil quit, period. This one really needs to be soldered & insulated

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I used those same Scotch Lock connectors. Mine quit working after a couple of weeks. I used the same in another car and it lasted for years and still worked when I sold the car.

Do you know if a test light would work on the wire running to the ECM (with the car in drive and on jack stands)? I suppose I could road test too, but the easier the better. I suspect this could be the problem, but I will also check grounding.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The ECM is probably something like 3-5 volts, so rather than a 12v. test light I'd use a digital multi-meter to check for the vss signal. FWIW, when the weather warms up I may peel away the Scotch-Lock connectors and solder them wiring in permanently.

So far the Rostra cruise has worked perfectly, sure makes longer trips more pleasant.
 
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