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Premium Member
Chicago & Detroit
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1,054 Posts
I think it would be helpful and you might get a better response if you listed the parts that you need.
 

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Linsight Designer
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1,973 Posts
I found a donor car to scavenge in Georgia. The owner has already started parting it out, which is a real shame because the car was perfectly functional, except that it had a dead IMA battery and wouldn't pass inspection. I'm gonna go pick parts off of it tomorrow.
 

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Linsight Designer
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Alright, scavenging complete. I believe I have all the parts required to get Sawbite up and running. I'll start working on getting them into Sawbite later this afternoon... I've got some other work to do before then.

FYI: The donor car I scavenged had 240,000 miles, but had never had the cabin air filter replaced. At some point a family of rats starting living in the (abandoned) car, and spawned several generations within its confines. The rats destroyed every fabric interior piece, but the car is mechanically in good shape, besides a few rust spots common for a northeast car.
 

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Registered
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335 Posts
Hopefully the rats didn’t like the taste of wire harness.... 👍
 

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Premium Member
2000 Silver M/T
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1,067 Posts
man, that's fantastic. Is it safe to assume that the placement of the obd2 indicates this is a 2000? (or was that harness from the donor car?)
When can I come visit!
 

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335 Posts
Thanks for the great video! Hoping to see more updates on future progress!! 👍
 

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Premium Member
Chicago & Detroit
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1,054 Posts
Well done. You clearly have been organized. I'd be interested to learn the method you used to implement 400+ splices. Any pics?
 

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Linsight Designer
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1,973 Posts
Spray painting parts that were too rusted to leave as-is:


Various bolts... the previous re-assembly process didn't put the proper bolts in the proper locations, but I'm doing my best to do so on the restoration. Fortunately I grabbed a bunch of bolts from the Georgia donor car.


BCM: 1K100-PHM-020 | 7680-300630
MCM:1K000-PHM-040 | 7650-500682
ECM: 37820-PHM-A03 | 7600-400755

Sawbite has 20.7 miles (shown on the FCD display).

Today I reinstalled the dashboard. Here's a quick walkaround. Unfortunately the video is quite choppy, as my cell phone is about to give up the ghost... probably time to buy another one (for $50 on eBay):

...

Remaining work:
-Clean engine bay and reinstall battery tray.
-Remove all fuel from gas tank, then add maybe half a gallon, which should cover all mileage for the next 25 years or so... I'm thinking that since it's a 20 year old car and has 20 miles on it, that it would be neat to drive it one mile per year. Ultimately this decision is up to the Lane Motor Museum, which I suspect will probably drive it more than that (which is ok).
-Reinstall carpet/seats. I'll probably end up removing the seat covers and washing them, as they are stained and dirty.
-(Possibly) Replace front left brake line, which has a nick in it... will figure out if required after master cylinder brake lines are reinstalled.
-Replace front right hexagonal frame piece (required by TN since it is part of the safety frame energy absorption structure). This will require welding, which means I'll need to take the entire front bumper off and then take the parts to a good welding shop (i.e. not the one I used initially).
-Get tire shop to install used RE-92s onto two OEM G1 rims that aren't cutaway.
-Replace oil.

After that it'll all just be bureaucracy.

...

Question:
1: If I remove the AC clutch relay, can I safely run the engine without pressurizing the AC system? My theory is that when the clutch is disengaged, then the pulley fully free-wheels. However, since there's very little resistance - due to having unpressurized HVAC lines - my concern is that the AC compressor could be damaged. Anyone who knows more about car AC pumps please educate us.

2: Sawbite is missing the entire interior HVAC system, including the heater core (79100-S3Y-A51). This means the two radiator lines heading into the cabin have nothing to connect to. Should I shunt these lines together (to allow the radiator fluid to continuously flow from the input to the output) , or should I cap them off (so no radiator fluid flows through them at all)?


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Parts I'd like to source from the community:
-passenger seat belt (04814-S3Y-A02ZB)... the one I scavenged earlier this week appears to be locked in its fully retracted position.
-driver air bag (06770-S2A-A81ZB)... the one that came with Sawbite had the explosive charge removed, and the one in the parts car was in really bad shape. TN requires the SRS system to be fully operational.
-Bolt that secures the power steering motor to the power steering assembly... I have QTY1, but need QTY1 more. I don't know that it has its own part number.
-Parking brake lever (47105-S3Y-033ZA)... the one that came with Sawbite won't stay engaged, and I cannot figure out how to remove the gray plastic cover from the handle so that I can attempt to fix it. There's quite a bit of overspray in the mechanism, which I suspect has gummed up the ratchet.
-Antenna cable (39156-S3Y-003). The GA car had one, but I didn't grab it. If I end up heading back down there, then I'll grab it, along with the ceiling wire harness.
-Antenna Mast (39151-S50-J01).
-driver's A pillar plastic trim (84151-S3Y-003ZA)... the one that came with Sawbite is in really bad shape.
 

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Engine-Off-Coast
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1,924 Posts
I don't know that it's Canadian-specific, but when I had my Canadian G1, with that car you can lock the door with the door open if you are holding the silver handle open. I bet it works for this one. If that doesn't work then it means the lock actuator rod things are hooked up wrong.

I wouldn't worry about running it with the A/C compressor hooked up and the HVAC lines depressureized. I mean, anyone who has their coolant leak out ends up driving like that. But you could also remove the compressor and get a shorter belt meant for an Insight w/o A/C.
 

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Linsight Designer
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1,973 Posts
Yes, the doors lock either when the silver handle is open, or when the "door open" switch is held 'closed'. I guess that's how Canadian cars work... or maybe I just don't remember how they work, since I tend to unplug the "door open" switch because I dislike beeping.

I had considered purchasing the AC-delete pulley setup, but if I can run with the system depressurized that's certainly easier.
 

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Premium Member
2000 Silver M/T
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1,067 Posts
I can provide an airbag and the power steering bolt that you're looking for. I might have an a-pillar, I'll dig through the shed this weekend and see.
 

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Linsight Designer
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1,973 Posts
I can provide an airbag and the power steering bolt that you're looking for. I might have an a-pillar, I'll dig through the shed this weekend and see.
Sweet, thanks! We can meetup when I drive the car to Nashville later this month (to pass the anti-theft re-titling process).
 

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Premium Member
2005 G1 NFR 5spd
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313 Posts
I would like to join you when you pass through Mboro (EX 78-76) on the way to Lane's if possible and meet up with Atheos. Sorry, I don't have any of the parts you need. Except maybe for an old worn out G1 antenna mast. I had replaced mine with a 2016 Honda CRV mast ($6-8 from local Honda dealer). Cheaper and a better fit than a $18 S2000 antenna mast.
 

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Premium Member
2000 Silver M/T
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1,067 Posts
Is that a public event? If so, when is it? I'm only about 3 hrs away.
It's every Saturday in Franklin Tennessee. Often, there's a rep from the Lane museum there showcasing one of their unique cars, and there's always an engaged crowd. This would be a great place to show off Sawbite before it gets cataloged into the museum.
 

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Premium Member
2005 G1 NFR 5spd
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313 Posts
Nashville C&C
20200628_214247.jpg
 
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