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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's what worked for me:
I started by clearing any CVT codes - disconnect the 12v battery for 30 minutes, then re-connect battery

If you need to change your CVT fluid and filter, do the burnishing procedure first.

Burnishing procedure (smooths the surfaces between the pulleys and the belt):
Warm up the car to operating temp and powerbrake the car in Drive for 6-8 seconds.
(Powerbraking is first stepping firmly on the brake and then applying full throttle to the engine. The car doesn't move)
Honda says the RPM should reach 2500 revs (spec 2350-2650 rpm)
Next, allow to cool for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm
Repeat the powerbrake and cool down for each additional gear: Reverse and Low

If changing fluid - drop and clean the pan+magnets, change the canister filter, refill with genuine Honda G1 CVT fluid

Clutch Relearn Procedure: (This needs to be done anytime the 12v battery is disconnected)
Warm the car to operating temp
Turn on headlights !!!
Accelerate to 37 - 40mph
Coast down to 0 mph without touching the brakes (coasting uphill helps)
Turn off headlights when done.
(I repeated this process two or three times)

Start clutch procedure: (Do Clutch Relearn Procedure First)
With the car hot at operating temp
Turn OFF the key
Short pins 4 & 9 on the OBDII port (I made an OBDII plug with pin 4 connected to pin 9)
Step firmly on the brake and continue to do so throughout the procedure
Start the engine and then shift to Neutral
Shift from Neutral to Low and back to Neutral 3 times within 20 seconds (N-L-N-L-N-L-N)
The D indicator should light up
In less than one minute the D indicator should turn off
- If it starts blinking or stays on after one minute, start the procedure over from "Turn OFF the key"

When the D indicator turns off, shift to Drive and the D indicator should turn on again.
After no more than about 2 minutes the D indicator should turn back off (about 30 seconds for me)
- If it stays on longer than about 2 minutes, or begins to blink, start the procedure over from "Turn OFF the key"

Otherwise, turn the ignition switch OFF to reach completion.
Remove the shorted OBDII pins

Once successful, I did the Clutch relearn procedure one more time (figuring the start clutch position had changed)

Test drive the vehicle, and smile because your CVT acts like it should again!!

If unsuccessful to reach completion, repeat the clutch relearn and start clutch procedures again. Mine took several tries...I didn't have the headlights on initially during the clutch relearn...not sure how big a factor that is, but following the above procedures got me to success!!
 

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Well documented. I had good intentions of writing a similar thread for the CVT but never got around to it. Every CVT owner should know about this.

Some other things that these procedures will cure are a rough take-off, box trying to stall the engine when you click it in to D or R, a delay followed by violent jerk as it takes up drive, a jerk as you decelerate (as if you'd tapped the brake), a chirping noise (and a jerk) as you decelerate. You might think it's the box or the clutch on its last legs, but it has in fact just gone out of calibration.
 

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Short pins 4 & 9 on the OBDII port (I made an OBDII plug with pin 4 connected to pin 9)
Do you have instructions on how to make the OBDII plug? Or is there a different way to do this step? I have a 2006 with the CVT judder and would love to give this a shot. It vibrates pretty bad when it comes out of auto stop, or just taking off from a stop. I read this could also be caused by a bad rear motor mount, I still need to check that next time I'm under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have instructions on how to make the OBDII plug? Or is there a different way to do this step? I have a 2006 with the CVT judder and would love to give this a shot. It vibrates pretty bad when it comes out of auto stop, or just taking off from a stop. I read this could also be caused by a bad rear motor mount, I still need to check that next time I'm under the car.
I just bought a standard 16pin OBD2 plug...eBay or Amazon. Take the plug apart and solder a small copper wire connecting pin 4 to pin 9 on the plug's PC board. If you look carefully at the plug, you can see the pin numbers. Re-assemble the plug and you're done!

Alternatively, I believe some folks re-bend a paper clip and stick the ends into the OBD2 socket, shorting pin 4 to pin 9, but I find the test plug to be quite handy, and I'll never short out the wrong pins.
Automotive tire Camera accessory Font Circuit component Cameras & optics
 

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I just bought a standard 16pin OBD2 plug...eBay or Amazon. Take the plug apart and solder a small copper wire connecting pin 4 to pin 9 on the PC board. If you look carefully at the plug, you can see the pin numbers. Re-assemble the plug and you're done!

Alternatively, I believe some folks re-bend a paper clip and stick the ends into the OBD2 socket, shorting pin 4 to pin 9, but I find the test plug to be quite handy, and I'll never short out the wrong pins.
View attachment 95480
I just used a paperclip personally.
 

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I just bought a standard 16pin OBD2 plug...eBay or Amazon. Take the plug apart and solder a small copper wire connecting pin 4 to pin 9 on the plug's PC board. If you look carefully at the plug, you can see the pin numbers. Re-assemble the plug and you're done!

Alternatively, I believe some folks re-bend a paper clip and stick the ends into the OBD2 socket, shorting pin 4 to pin 9, but I find the test plug to be quite handy, and I'll never short out the wrong pins.
View attachment 95480
Thank you! I'm definitely going to give this a try. It would be great to get rid of the judder.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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i have a 2007 honda civic hybrid that has both the initial jerk when first putting either in drive or in reverse. As well, it has a jittering while driving. Seems to be worse when cold, but still happens when the motor is warm.

i had the transmission fluid flushed, but it didn't make a difference. my service guy also checked codes and there weren't any. he only charged me for the new transmission fluid and referred me to a transmission guy.

before going to the transmission guy, i found this post. the question i have now, is do i need to do all of those steps? i'm assuming i don't have to disconnect the batter to clear codes, but don't know if that battery disconnect does something else that is needed.

also, what does the 4-9 pin cross do? is it clearing the computer to allow calibration? i'm sure what i just asked doesn't make any sense, but i am certainly no mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I hope the service guy put in the correct Honda G1 CVT fluid. I would never "flush" the CVT...only drain and fill.

The 4-9pin cross tells the car you are conducting a special service procedure. If you don't short the pins, you are just shifting the shifter without making any change/correction to the transmission...you would just be shifting in and out of low to neutral and the D indicator light will never illuminate.

When my Honda Insight CVT wasn't acting properly, I did all the steps (including 12v battery disconnect). No idea why skipping steps would be wise when they are really pretty easy steps to perform. Taking short cuts is definitely a recipe for failure instead of success (just my personal experience, your mileage may vary).

All the info above is for a G1 Insight...although it's likely the same, I have no idea if it will work for a Civic. If you have success please be sure to let us know!

"As well, it has a jittering while driving..." I assume you have cleaned your EGR plate. If not, search the forums. There are plenty of write ups about that.
 

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I called the honda dealer near me and explain my issue. I also explained this post about the Insight and asked if there was something similar or if this exact thing is something that would work for the civic. they were unwilling to answer and said they don't have time for their technicians to answer my phone call but i could bring it in for an initial $70 and up to $140 for a technician to evaluate it and to do any possible reset if it were available.

i don't necessarily mind spending the $140 if it will fix my problem. but at this time, i'm uncertain it will. i tried doing the clutch relearn, but my civic will not exceed 2k rpms, therefore i don't think that part is working. I tried to cross the 4-9 pins and do the reset, but my D light never lit up.

i guess at this point, taking it to the dealer might be the best - at least then the technician can tell me if it's even possible.
 

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Now you have given another problem "will not exceed 2K rpm".
Limp mode or clogged CAT?
 

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By the way you wrote the statement It sounded to me like that was the max rpm the veh. was capable of.
If you had indicated it would max out before I wouldn't have asked.
Sorry I was only tying to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
It took me several tries at the above procedures to finally get the D indicator to "turn off" properly on my Insight. My guess is it was because I hadn't turned on my headlights that the procedure had called for. Another potential issue to consider is if the the car was not up to operating temp (I made sure mine was). Having the vehicle's electric radiator fans turn on is a good indication it's at operating temp. Persistence is what ultimately led me to success, and is what led me to post the procedures for other CVT owners to benefit from.

I wouldn't do the burnishing procedure more than a couple of times, unless I had a very specific reason to. The clutch relearn and start clutch procedures can be attempted multiple times without causing any excess duress to the vehicle. Unfortunately, I don't know if these are the same procedures for a Civic Hybrid or not (but I suspect they are). The info in my initial post came from the Honda Insight Service Manual, and as far as I know, the Civic uses the same engine and CVT transmission.

If you read Honda's procedure for the start clutch, it specifically states how to restart the procedure if the D indicator doesn't illuminate properly. I think this is the clue that caused me to be persistent. I find it a bit unusual for a service manual to tell you to re-do a procedure if things don't happen exactly as they're supposed to. I can't say why the procedure was written that way, but I do find it odd. Maybe it can require several attempts to re-align the start clutch?

I've not had much luck with dealerships in the past. I hope you find success in solving your CVT issue.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I just read your last post again and it doesn't sound exactly right. The burnishing procedure is where you are powerbraking the car (full throttle with the brake pedal firmly pressed), not the clutch re-learn procedure. FYI...It's important to follow each step EXACTLY as written. Maybe that's what you've done and only your description is off a bit?

In any case, if after shifting from Neutral to Low three times within 20 seconds and the D indicator light doesn't illuminate at all, I would assume the Civic is different (provided that you followed all the steps EXACTLY). The D indicator always illuminated on my Insight, it just wouldn't turn back off like the start clutch procedure called for. I had made a written copy of the steps to make certain I followed them all correctly, and also made sure my Neutral to Low shifts were within the 20 seconds. It's easy to fall out of parameter. You must be mindful to be exact. (I would also make sure of the pin 4 and pin 9 cross, that you haven't inadvertently shorted or crossed the wrong pins.)
 

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I followed davismltc and it worked! 2001 - 220,000 miles CVT

Couple thoughts though:
1. took me like 10 times to do the "start clutch" thing, really began to think my car wasn't going to let it happen.
2. also did the "relearn clutch" thing before and after, cause why not(neighborhood probably thought it was odd behavior)
3. tried to get the exact info from my service manuals buuuuuuuuuuut the CVT wasn't in there(!!!), WTH!
4. car does work better now, maybe %75 better on "takeoffs"
5. the "judder/studder/stumble" is gone AND what remains is a low chirp/bumble repeated maybe 120 times a minute upon acceleration(I think) any ideas???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
1. took me like 10 times to do the "start clutch" thing, really began to think my car wasn't going to let it happen.
...
5. the "judder/studder/stumble" is gone AND what remains is a low chirp/bumble repeated maybe 120 times a minute upon acceleration(I think) any ideas???
1. The same for me, it took multiple tries to get the start clutch to finish to completion. I assumed it might have been because initially my headlights weren't on during the clutch relearn, but I don't know if that was a factor or not. The service manual does say headlights on for that portion of the procedure. The manual also advises where to begin again if the start clutch procedure doesn't go to completion. That was the clue for me that it wasn't likely happening on the first try.

5. No idea on this one. I assume you don't think its a slip problem on the belt (burnishing procedure).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oh, I don't know how the CVT works? Which manual do I need?
In a nutshell, the CVT has two tapered pulleys that vary their width, driven by a steel 'V' belt. When one of the pulley's width is squeezed narrower hydraulically, the belt rides up higher, while the other pulley does the opposite. This pulley movement changes the drive ratio between them. Their is also a start clutch that disconnects the engine driven pulley for "neutral" and while vehicle is stopped, engine running. Their are plenty of videos and info on CVT transmissions if you search. They all work similarly. Google is your friend.

I have the "Honda 2000-2003 Insight Service Manual" published by Honda Motor Co., Ltd. P/N: 61s3y04
It's a large green manual about 1.5" thick. Mine came with the 2000 Insight M/T I purchased from the previous owner.
 

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Mine service manual is a 2000 and I can't find the CVT in that. Doe's yours include manual & CVT service? Mine just has manual.

My car does chirp upon maybe ALL accelerations just to varying degrees, less on lighter, more on harder ones. I assumed it was a loose component, but you are thinking the trans needs to be burnished?
 
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