Well, did some more work on the car yesterday. Seems like I got next to nothing done! The only thing not hooked up is the wideband. I have the bung welded onto the downpipe, I just didn't have time to wire the sensor in. I did take the car on a small drive around town, and on the 750cc's, fresh hondata base tune, and all the turbo stuff, it drives amazing! The real tuning starts this week though. Admittedly I am not PFI Brent of tuning, but I should be able to get it running well.
Here is the shot of the turbo on, but I had it put on backwards, and it was really close to my radiator.
So after turning it around, it gave much more clearance.
Then it was on to the wastegate, which ended up touching the webbing on the bottom side of the hood. A hammer fixed that. This was an early picture, I did put on the top port banjo, and it cleared after hammer time....
Then I started the downpipe, so I would know where to put the -10 Bulkhead fitting for the oil return line. Also tossed on the wastegate dump tube.
As you can see in that last picture, both the feed line and oil return are already on. I didn't capture any of that fun. The most time consuming part was the oil pan, removing it and drilling/cleaning it.
Then we skip way ahead to me having all the intercooler piping on, and hood closed back up! Still have to trim the front bumper to clear the intercooler piping, which will take some time.
More to come! Don't mind the mess of a garage. Up next will be the front bumper and wideband. Thanks for looking!
I will also add a couple things I forgot. I am going with RC 750CC injectors, and I went with NGK V-powers in the 7 range. BKR7E I believe is the part number. I have ran V-powers in every turbo'ed, supercharged, and twincharged car I have built, and haven't had any issues. I'll stick with my tried and trues, ha ha.
And look at the NASTY stock injectors!
Most of the turbo stuff I have had lying around for over 5 years, hence the reason the turbo is so rusty! Most of it was planned for a Honda powered turbo awd Geo Metro....
Well, last night was the "first drive". I hooked up the wideband to the car, but not to the hondata. Drove around and got the idle/cruise areas close in open loop. Slowly worked into the boosted area, where I found out the wastegate is 4.2psi. Being a NOOB, I had a slight mishap, as I didn't lower the timing in the VTEC maps, so when I hit 4700rpm, VTEC engaged and I went from 16 Degrees of timing to 27!!! Oops! I have since fixed that, and if I have time today, the next thing on my list will be to trim the front bumper and get it back on, and then hook the wideband up to Hondata to make tuning MUCH easier....
So far, she feels pretty good! I know it's only been non VTEC boost for the most part, but I'll take what I can get!
Just adding another small update. I got the front bumper trimmed to clear the piping, which actually protrudes out the front of the bumper! I really don't mind it though, because it makes people notice/laugh!
I drove it about 70 miles yesterday, and dialed in the Air/Fuel to 11.8:1 while at 4.5lbs of boost-ish, which is actually quite rich for such low boost, but I want to make sure I'm on the fat side. Timing is also really conservative at 17-18 degrees.
First impressions on wide open throttle pulls: It feels great for only 4.5psi! If I had to venture, I would say that my trap speed in the quarter mile has gone from 92mph naturally aspirated, to around 102mph at it's current boost level.
The really good news with all of this, is the car hasn't gone over 190 degrees F with all the boosting I have been doing! That little aluminum radiator is putting in work!
No pictures today, there is a slight chance I will hit up the track tomorrow night, which could be interesting since I'm still on my little 185 wide tires!
Currently it's just getting the tuned dialed in and upping the boost. Two times now, both on the way back from the drag strip, the whole tune has gone crazy rich! I have no clue what it is because I'm leaving it open loop!
The wideband is now hooked up to the ECU, and I welded a better flange onto the exhaust so now it's nice and quiet. So besides the tuning part of it, its been a great, no hassles, experiment!
The short term plan is 8-9psi, turbo heat shield and heat wrap for both the down pipe and intake, and then drag slicks, if I can find a good set for a decent price. I think low 12's, even high 11's are possible with that setup. Time will tell of course!
I did a second pass, but bogged, so it was only a 14.3. I've still got it when it comes to reaction time though, lol.
I took the car on a trip this morning, with it running all rich for whatever reason, and eight after I get the tune back to where it should be, I fill the tank up, and the damn thing went stupid lean on me! Like it reverted back to where the tune was originally! So, I tuned it AGAIN!
Now with that somewhat sorted, I added a "T" to the wastegate line, and somehow managed to get it right where I wanted it. 9.5psi. Got it dialed in at 11.5afr and 17° of timing. Feels pretty strong, intake temps after a 1-4 pull were at 110°, they actually started at 118°, due to my intake routing behind the radiator. This will be fixed next week when the turbo blanket, and heat shielding will be in to wrap the intake pipe and downpipe!
So hopefully with some cooler intake temps, and 9psi, I can get some better track numbers here in the next couple weeks!
I decided to look into a little of the wiring yesterday. I found the wires that need to see VSS signal for both the speedo, and the Electronic Power Steering. So after running a little bit of wire, I now have both a functioning speedo and EPS!!!
I do have a question if anyone here can answer. After getting these fixed, on my test drives, I get the sounding key "Dings" every 30 seconds. This is the noise you here if you put your key into acc position with the door open. It dings 6 times then stops. Any Ideas as to why this would happen? If nothing else, I guess I could find the "Dinger" and take care of it by removing it!
I also messed with launch control. Just playing with some settings, I have it building a little over 2psi at 4200rpm. I'm not going to build crazy boost yet, becasue on street tires it just doesn't make sense.
On a side note, I try to keep up with a lot of the tuners, and I watch a lot of their tuning videos, and it looks like I am being incredibly conservative on the timing. In two different cases, I seen them put right about 20 degrees of timing in at 8-9psi, where I am only running 16-17, and they are saying that they are even being conservative! So I guess the next time out at the track, I will run a pass with 16-17 degrees of timing, and then bump it up, as long as temps stay under control!...
She's starting to come alive! I feel like by this time next year this car could be a monster!
Once on boost, you're (likely) octane limited on pump gas, so you can advance the timing as far as you can until you have knock. I used my knock sensor to build timing maps for 87, 93, and 91 ethanol free.
Yeah, I have 91 in the tank, it's all I can find regularly. The bad part about that is I don't have a knock sensor, so I have to keep it on the safe side. I haven't heard anything audible, and with the research I have done, I would feel comfortable going to 20 Degrees as it is. I also have some "octane booster" in it, which may have given me a couple points. I plan to only run 87 octane on wastegate pressure of 4.2psi, because it ran fine with the 87 that was in there when I first turbo'ed it.
More than likely, I will eventually run E85, as I can get it easily where I live, and the knock prevention of alcohol based fuel is just incredible! On my twincharged 93 Probe GT, my megasquirt ECU quit controlling spark, so I switched to E85 and ran stock timing! Ha ha, not recommended for sure, but it had no problems at 14psi!!!
Small update! I fixed the issue with the door chimes! When I pulled the driver's seat, I forgot to disconnect the seatbelt wiring, and broke them. Thinking it was a an open loop when the belt wasn't plugged in, I just looped the wires together. I was wrong, it was a closed loop. So I disconnected the wires and now there is no chime.
I just ordered a clutch and flywheel for it, as I am pretty sure I smell clutch after I open the hood after driving it hard. It's still holding great, but at some point it's going to give up the ghost, especially if I start running some sticky tires! I'll hold off on replacing it until after it actually starts to slip.
I'm just rolling along with updates! Today the header wrap and the turbo blanket came in, along with some Sealight LED headlights. I chose these because the ones I purchased for my F150 had shields around the low beam so it doesn't blind oncoming traffic. These had the same shield, so hopefully we are good in that respect. I will see how they do tomorrow AM when I go to work.
I wrapped the intake tube, and put the turbo blanket on, and also shimmed the hood about a quarter inch. This worked really, really well! Intake temps are staying roughly 20° colder through the same situations as yesterday, and the underhood heat soak is way lower with the shims! It pulls a lot harder when it can start at 95° instead of 118°, lol. A full 3-4 pull ended at 100° on the dot, so that is a significant improvement!
I also sourced a set of 24.5x9x13 slicks and wheels that I am taking a small road trip tomorrow night to go get! Quarter mile times should drop substantially in the coming weeks!
Thanks for reading, sorry there aren't any pics recently, I'll try to do better!
I've heard a lot of mixed things about header wrap, mostly with it getting wet and (especially when the car is just sitting) holding moisture and rotting out your exhaust. What are your thoughts on this?
If I didn't care about the money invested I would go with a ceramic coating. I never noticed any ill effects on my painted or stainless exhausts with header wrap, but I could see how mild steel could have issues. I'll probably paint my downpipe with a ceramic paint before I end up wrapping that. I'm not concerned about the intake, as it's aluminum...
I'm really anxious to see how well all these things do combined on my next outing, because they all have shown good results in their areas. The slicks will just be icing on the cake, if I can get it to not destroy the clutch, lol.
On my old twincharged probe, I was consistently running 122-123mph in the quarter, because the tires were the weakest link. Once I threw slicks on, it was game over. Here is the only pass I ever made on high boost (14psi) and slicks, clutch gave up at the 1000' mark...
Update! After a 6+ hour round trip, I now have two sets of slicks! Both are 24.5" Tall, one is 9" wide, and one is 7" wide. I think the 24.5x9" slicks will have an issue fitting, but they are on the 4x100 bolt pattern. The 24.5x7" slicks are on 5x100 bolt pattern, so I may switch the 7" wides to the other rims and try them out first.
I will also hook up the clutch sensor switch, so I can activate No Lift Shift, and keep the engine in boost! Looking at my logs, I'm losing about .4 seconds per shift of acceleration due to backing off of the throttle.