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I'm not into drag racing and couldn't say how much of a difference it would make, but if you cover up all that grill opening where your charge pipes are so air can only enter into the intercooler I guarantee you'll make more power (more efficient intercooling), your radiator will be more efficient, and you'll have better aerodynamics (go faster and better fuel economy). As you have it now I wouldn't be all that surprised if you actually aren't getting any air flow through the intercooler and that all the air is more or less bypassing it.

I have an aluminum half radiator on my K swap that was having a hard time staying below 200*F and was having intake temps 30*F above ambient despite having the air filter located in the fender well. Once I blocked off the grill opening next to the radiator so air could only flow through the radiator it's actually difficult for me to get the clt temp above 185*F unless I'm not moving. My IAT's also dropped to about 15*F above ambient. I recall having similiar results when I had the turbo 3 with making it so air could only enter by traveling through the intercooler. I haven't measured the actual air pressure differences yet with my air blocking/guiding but plan to... just haven't really felt like driving my car much lately being my driver window quit working and is stuck down.
 

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2004 Honda Insight: D16Z6, turbo'ed
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Haha, when I put the drive tires on the back, they won't need to be slicks, because it will mean it's awd!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
I haven't seen ect's over 192. And ever since I added the hood spacers, turbo blanket, and wrapped the intake, I haven't seen over 185. Intake temps are between 10-20° above ambient. The intercooler is actually ahead of those open spots, so if I were to close them off, I don't think I would get any more through it., it would just route around or under/over the bumper. I'll take a closer look when I get some time!
 

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More than likely, I will eventually run E85, as I can get it easily where I live, and the knock prevention of alcohol based fuel is just incredible! On my twincharged 93 Probe GT, my megasquirt ECU quit controlling spark, so I switched to E85 and ran stock timing! Ha ha, not recommended for sure, but it had no problems at 14psi!!!
E85 is insane, now that gas is stupid cheap it seems that it costs close to what regular costs. I’m definitely doing the dual tune in my DC5 just for the fact that car will run a little cooler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2004 Honda Insight: D16Z6, turbo'ed
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Small update, nothing new to report as far as progress made. I actually took a decent step backwards! When I mounted the slicks on the car and went for a drive last Thursday, a buddy of mine asked for a ride, so we went down a country road and gave it the beans a couple times. Well, that ripped the rear motor mount, so I am looking into a new design for that. I am also trying to get the passenger side stiffer by using Polyurethane to fill the gap in the rubber mounts.

Besides that, the car is running good, and should be good to see upper 30/lower 40's for gas mileage. The only problem with that, is I have to run a full tank without going to the track or hooning it too bad, or I'll never get a good sample for gas mileage!

I also looked into the bumper situation that Mattl92 mentioned, and as for now I will leave it be. The passenger side opening feeds right to where the intake is leading to the turbo. I need fresh ambient air here for obvious reasons. If I get to a point where the boost is getting higher and I am having issues cooling everything down, I will look into it more seriously! Also, as I stated, the openings are actually behind the intercooler, so while I'm sure it would help make some of the air force feed through the intercooler, I feel there wouldn't be as great of a benefit as if this were a Civic, where the bumper is flat most of the way across the bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Got a couple hours out in the garage last night, and let me tell you, this is now starting to feel like a project should! Why? Well because of the problems that are coming to fruition, of course!

I made a new rear mount, that uses the stock rear rubber mount that is mounted to the chassis, and then welded a steel adapter to the bottom of the engine. It seems to be working good, but for some reason the shifter mount has been giving me issues. I think it has to do with how I mounted it to the sheet metal of the tunnel. I plan to use a mounting plate to hold it up when I get another chance to mess with it.

Also, while doing a quick drive last night, I got on it to check the tune modifications I made, and I am pretty sure I have hit the limit of the factory clutch! Intake temps were 80 degrees or under, and it's still at 9.5psi. So I'm assuming I am currently at 200whp, or slightly above. So we will see how it runs the next few times I drive it, because if it's slipping too bad, I'll throw the new clutch in as soon as I get it, and wait to head back to the track.

Thanks for looking!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Another update! I used the sandwich plate technique to remount the shifter mount. I used two .125" thick aluminum plates to sandwich the sheet metal of the tunnel and the shifter mount itself. The reason for having to do this was due to the shifter mount actually bending the sheet metal of the tunnel, causing the shifter linkage to fall out! It seems to have worked for now.

Now, back to the engine and tranny mounts. I purchased some Energy Suspension bushings that will work with 1.510" ID tubing. This is a relatively common size, of 1.75" OD with a 1.20" wall. I don't have any of this tubing yet, but it can be ordered easily enough from companies like McMaster-Carr, or most fab shops will have left over droppings you can pick up for cheap.

I will be working on the main mounts here in the next week or two, and that will help with what motion I still have left in the engine bay!

I'm going to try to go to the track tomorrow and throw down some times. I think I will run my first pass on my street tires, and then run a couple times on the slicks, as long as the clutch holds.

Thanks for looking,

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Came to the track tonight, lots of issues! Broke the shifter mount, again!!!! Jerry rigged it, and put the slicks on. First pass broke the shifter, second pass hit a rev limit in 4th, not sure why, it was my launch control limiter that should shut off after 6mph...

Last 2 passed were on the slicks, with no launch control.... but, I skipped 13s and went straight to 12.80s, lol

Thanks for looking! I most likely won't come back to the track until later in the fall for some better weather! DA was 2000 tonight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
I just thought of something. I'm wondering if my vtec isn't physically coming on?!? The numbers would make a lot more sense if that were the case!.

I know the computer is activating vtec, but I have never really heard a hard vtec switch over! That's something I'll look into soon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I sure did! Lol. Normally I'm between .000 and .050, however, with the issues I was having, I only concentrated on the car stuff. For example, if you look at the first pass, I did try to cut a good light.

Time always starts when the beams are tripped, so the ET isn't affected
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Update on Vtec. It is definitively NOT engaging. With Hondata, I changed the vtec RPM engagement to a few different RPM's, 2500, 3000, 3500... I could not hear the switchover at any point. So I have some investigating to do. Before testing, I pulled off the Solenoid and cleaned it, but it wasn't really dirty, so I figured that wasn't going to be the problem, but better to clean it out anyway.

My 1.75" Tube is here, so I will start working on my permanent motor mounts with the Energy Suspension bushings. This will solve a whole bunch of small issues, ha ha.

Thanks for looking! Pics to come of the mounts as they are made!

John
 

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I've never owned a D series so take this with a grain of salt, but to my knowledge there's no VTEC on the exhaust cam, and on the intake it's only enabling the second valve, not shifting to a high lift profile. It might not be audible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
That isn't how the original vtec works. The original vtec has two small cam lobes, directly over the valves, that are the normal "economy" lobes. In the middle is a larger lobe, that when vtec is activated, oil pushes on little locker pins, that lock everything onto that larger lobe. The difference between the lobes is quite large, it's Definitely audible!

I'll find out after messing with it. Roght now, my tubing came in so I can start making my motor mounts!
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Well, looks like the motor is coming out! I started to take the mounts off to work on them, and I noticed there was play on the drivers side mount. It's mounted solid, but the bolts holding the mount to the block must have backed out some, but it's under the timing cover so I can't get a good look at it.

I received the Flywheel in the mail yesterday, so the engine/tranny coming back out is fine because I need to get that new clutch and flywheel in there anyway!
 

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I just got home yesterday from Cali. Was looking forward to checking your car out but ended up going down the 70 all the way to 55. Looking at the feasability of doing a moto swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Been a bit since I posted. I have been busy with other things, but last weekend the engine came out. Fixed some bolts that backed out, replaced the rear main seal, put the new clutch and flywheel on. All the good stuff.

Today I started working on the mounts, the permanent ones, lol. For the driver's side, I used part of a bracket that held up the intake manifold, and welded that to anther plate, which will soon form the driver's side chassis mount.

After getting the engine back into the bay where it previously was, I decided to start with the passenger side mount. I don't know why. I used the 93 civic passenger side mount, cut the rubber out, and modified it to my liking. I had to stop for the night, but I only need to weld one more pipe section to have this one complete.

I'll post up some pics when I can, for some reason it's not giving me the option right now. Thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Here are some pics of the mounts. I haven't had a chance to drive with them yet, I have thrown everything back together except the front bumper. It has had the coolant bled, so as soon as the bumper back on it'll be good to test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Well the rubber or neoprene bushings and their internal sleeves are Energy Suspension, then you just use tubing to make the outer section. Time will tell how these hold up. The driver's side is kind of an experiment, as I did it vertically, and I'm not sure if that will be ok or not.

3.2124 is the ES part number, I'm pretty sure they are for leaf spring ends on a chevy truck, lol.
 
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