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2004 Honda Insight: D16Z6, turbo'ed
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Another small update. I have the girdle in place for the last time. Pulled everything off and cleaned everything up, and reinstalled the main bearings, crank, thrust washers, girdle, and main bolts. Crank moves nice and easy, so that appears to be good!

I threw one rod onto a piston, paying attention to valve reliefs, and rod bearing notches (these need to be on the exhaust side of the engine, ie: front). The rest will follow when I get back out there. I am only getting an hour or so to work on it randomly, which isn't bad, because then I don't get worn out of doing it.

I only took 1 picture last night, and I'll post that when I get some reception, but it's just in process rod/piston stuff, haha.

Thanks for looking!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Had some time to work on the engine today. All the rods and pistons are in the block, torqued to spec. I have the oil pump torn down, as it will get ported, and the relief valve spring will get shimmed for a little more pressure. I forgot to order a new front main seal, so that will be in tomorrow.

Slowly but surely, it's coming along!

I forgot to take pictures of the oil pump, I'll try to remember to tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Ok, back at it again today. I didn't do too much of a porting job. The long port that needs opened up starts at .500", butcthen narrows down, so I opened the whole thing up to roughly .500". Then I followed steps to make a shim out of an electrical connector, lol. I could have used a lathe and made one, but that would have taken a lot of time that I don't have. Installed the front main, put the oil pump back together and slapped that on. Also did the rear main seal as well. I love honda motors, because they are so light you can just pull them off the engine stand and onto a bench!

After that was done, I pulled the insight in and started tearing into it. I didn't get too crazy far, as it was 11:30pm when I quit.

Here are a few random pics of todays adventures....

Last pic is how I left it for the night. Thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Slow motion yet again! Worked on the engine for a while yesterday. Pulled the motor out of the car, and stripped the engine down. Tore the head apart and replaced the valve springs. It sounds pretty easy, but took me almost all day to get to the point of having the head thrown back together. Today I may put the head on the block, but first I need to look into how the block feeds the head for the Vtec, because this is a non-vtec block, so I may need to find a solution for oil delivery.

Also threw the new turbo up next to the ebay special, doesn't look much bigger, but the size difference is pretty substantial!

I didn't capture much with pictures, but I think I have a couple to add....
 

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Slow motion yet again! Worked on the engine for a while yesterday. Pulled the motor out of the car, and stripped the engine down. Tore the head apart and replaced the valve springs. It sounds pretty easy, but took me almost all day to get to the point of having the head thrown back together. Today I may put the head on the block, but first I need to look into how the block feeds the head for the Vtec, because this is a non-vtec block, so I may need to find a solution for oil delivery.

Also threw the new turbo up next to the ebay special, doesn't look much bigger, but the size difference is pretty substantial!

I didn't capture much with pictures, but I think I have a couple to add....
I did a poor man's R engine back in the day, B18 block with GSR head. I just used a sandwich plate on the oil filter housing, and routed oil lines up to the head. This is what was recommended to me, and it worked well for the time I had the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
I also did a B20V build back about 6 years ago, and I was told the same, but I found it odd no one mentioned doing this same this to the d16, on any of the videos I had watched. These actually have the port already there, in the block, and some have oil jets you have to remove, and some don't. So I either have to remove an oil jet, or do nothing if it's already gone. Seems easy enough. I'll look into it the next time I'm working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Another update! Moving things right along, today I threw the head on the block. I used a Y8 factory honda head gasket, as it's multi layer steel, and you really can't get better, lol.

In the picture you will see one longer stud, this is a D16Z6 head stud, while the rest are D16Y7/Y8 studs. This is due to the design of the Z6 head/block, that's all.

I threw on a spare valve cover a friend gave me, but before that I threw on all of the timing components, and got everything timed. I am using the factory cam for right now. I do have an aftermarket one, but it's extremely rusty, and I don't have an adjustable cam gear, which is needed to properly time the aftermarket cam.

A couple things are needed ordered, a timing cover set for the Y7, an intake mani gasket, or I'd love a thermo spacer if anyone makes one, I'll look into it.... besides those few things, I'm ready to swap the oil pan on, after a good cleaning!

Two more things. Turbo had to be rotated out, because it wouldn't clear the block the other way, and I finally bit the bullet and bought some Milwaukee tools!

Thanks for looking guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Small update. Oil pan did not swap over. Turns out there is a slight difference in the bolt pattern between the Z6 generation, and the Y7/8 generation. There are two studs that are off by about a quarter inch. So, i had to drill the Y7 oil pan for my bulkhead fitting for the oil return.

I also spent a little cash on some new 3" mandrel exhaust piping, and some V band clamps to go with them. The turbo outlet is a 3" v band, so that will make it easy.

Besides that, the only other thing I did, was look at the factory rods that I have been punishing for 8k miles. No bent rods, no shavings in the oil pan, and the pistons looked great as well! This block will be saved for future use, either in this chassis, or another I find for maybe a true daily.

Thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Another few days, another update! Drilled the Y7 pan for the oil return bulkhead, and got the pan put on.

Also received the lower timing belt cover in, but I can't put that on until I find the engine mount that bolts to the block! Somehow I have misplaced it in my extremely messy garage!

Since I couldn't work on that part, I jumped over to working on a new downpipe. All of my components came in today, so I spent a few hours fabbing up a full downpipe. It's ugly, welds are full of spatter and a few random bubbles because flux core, and my last transition is terrible, but it will most definitely do the job. Now off to find that [email protected]&n engine mount....
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Hello everyone, I am once again back in the garage. I am on a time crunch this time! I have decided I want to take my car to the Ice Cream Cruise in Western Iowa. I live in Western Illinois (your condolences are appreciated, lol). This will be a 5 hour trip each way.

I am trying to get the car in good enough running condition to do the roll racing they will have. I feel this is a better option than drag racing, because I don't want to break an axle since I am running 1984 civic axles, they aren't just readily available....

I am redoing all of the engine mounts again, as the other ones were twisting with the previous power level of 200-220whp.

The engine, clutch, trans is all assembled and is roughly in place in the engine bay. This go around I am raising the engine slightly, and pushing it back about an inch. This is to help clear the radiator with the turbo, since the turbo has been rotated around 180deg. Also this go around, I have put the axles in, so I can get the final engine position correct with regards to CV movement.

This is all going to be moving pretty quick this next week and a half, so I will try to get plenty of pictures to go along with my rants! Thanks for looking, more to follow!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Still at it, slowly but surely! In the last couple days I have made the main two mounts for the engine, and in doing so, made better alignment of the axles. Also Raised the engine so there is now 7" of ground clearance for the oil pan! I'm good with that! The exhaust will sit slightly shorter than that, but still plenty of ground clearance. I still have 2-3 more mounts to make to support the engine the way I want, but I wanted to make sure everything was in it's correct place now, before getting too deep on the mounts and finding out later I screwed it all up...

I ordered some parts from AEM: Fuel Rail, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and FP Gauge. All of that will be in today, so I plan to put all of that on. I will need to drain all of the E85 out of the tank as well, I want to break the engine in on 91 octane, and may stay on 91 for the foreseeable future.

I also purchased a new wastegate, with a much shorter profile, and 14psi spring. I still have A TON of things to do, and only a little over a week to do it! Thanks for looking!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Well, spent some more time working on stuff, I'm still working on the rear motor mount. With where this engine is positioned, there just aren't a lot of good options for good mounts that will help stop engine rotation.

While working on that, today I also finished the downpipe with a section of 3" flex pipe, and a 3"v-band to connect it to the exhaust. Speaking of the exhaust, I just built the whole 3" exhaust today! 1 piece, which includes a 3" Vibrant resonator, and a 3" Vibrant muffler.

More updates to come. Slow progress, but decent progress at the same time.

It is actually covered in two coats of black paint right now, I will do a couple more tomorrow while working on other stuff!

Thanks for looking!
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Made some more progress tonight. Got the exhaust painted, back on the car, and some hanger mounts made to support the muffler. I also finished up the rear engine mount. I'm hoping the redesign does a better job of keeping the engine still.

My shorter wastegate came in, so I put that on and made a dump tube that dumps out by the oil pan, aimed towards the back. I also buttoned up a couple other things around the engine bay. More stuff will be coming in here in the next three days, so I should be able to have it on the road by Wednesday night! Getting close! Thanks for looking!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
So, she started! Two nights ago I connected all the wiring, put the break-in oil in, put the distributor on, and some other random stuff, and just to make sure everything was connected, I tried to start her. She fired right up! It sounded like it was idling around 800rpm.

So yesterday, after working a whole day, spending 1.5 hours at the bank, and 2 back to back fire calls, I put the radiator back in, and ran the car for about 20 minutes. Again, Idling around 800rpm. Feels great to see it working good! Only leak was from the banjo bolts on the turbo for the coolant lines. Oh, yeah, put coolant lines on the Turbo too! haha.

I tried to upload a startup video, but the site wouldn't let me for some reason. I guess I'll have to post on YouTube and link to it. Today, the last silicone coupler will be here so I can redo some the intercooler piping. I'm hoping to drive it to work tomorrow. Gotta get a good 500 miles on it over the weekend, to get everything sealed up in the engine, and get the tune working good. I won't put the car into boost until I have about 100 miles on it or so. Not sure how many miles I really need to seal the rings, but I'll try to do it all boost free.

Thanks for looking! More to come! Ice Cream Cruise is 9 days away!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Forgot to take any pictures last night, but I did make progress, even if that progress went backwards for some things.

The intercooler couplers cam in, and I was able to shorten the route of the piping by roughly 20". This will help with two things, 1: I can put my windshield washer tank back in place! 2: It contributes to quicker spool, by having less volume to pressurize. My intent with this 58/55 turbo was to keep spool the same, but have way more efficient power. I think it will work well!

Ok, on to the not-so-fun stuff. The turbo is oil and water cooled. I contacted VS Racing, and they said on the DBB units, you MUST used the water cooling. SO I ordered some banjo bolts and fittings, and the washers that came with were garbage. They leaked terrible, so I got some new ones, and even those required a TON of tightening to get them to seal. Anyone who has had to replace a fuel filter on a Civic probably knows this, as it 's the same deal there.

The oil drain was also slightly leaking. I tightened everything up, and kept checking, and I think I have finally got all the leaks stopped. The rest of the engine appears to be leak free, which is great news, haha.

Next issue: I have a spare Insight, same color, or so I thought. I over-cut my stock bumper due to the routing of my intercooler piping. Now that I have changed that, I was planning to use the other front bumper, so I trimmed it down. It wasn't until I was completely done trimming that I noticed how "off" the color was to the rest of my insight.... I put my old bumper back on. I will probably add some shields to the front bumper to close the extra gaps.

Car idles great, and after buttoning things up after work, I should be good to drive it around. I'm slightly behind on my timeline, but overall I am extremely happy with my work on this, and more so happy with the wife for not killing me for doing this!!!!

Thanks for looking guys, I will have more stuff to post after tonight! Sorry for the long read!

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
It was extremely funny going and fitting it up for the final time, seeing the fender was WAY darker than the bumper.... Sigh.... Sometimes I focus way too hard and don't look at the larger picture!

All I know is the bigger picture is driving this damn thing, and hopefully that starts tonight!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Success!!!! The D-sight drove to work this morning! I put about 40-50 miles on it last night, seating the rings with tons of engine braking. I did the same this morning, but to a lesser extent since I was partially in traffic.

The car is louder than before, as expected. I did go to a full 3" exhaust, after all. This Turbo sounds NASTY! I wasn't trying to get into boost, but in 4th gear at 2krpm, it hit 1# of boost.

One thing that I find weird, at least so far, is that the car seems to be running more efficiently. The compression went from 9.2:1 to 7.9:1(ish). Under the 1# of boost I did see, it was running close to 13.0:1 AFR, which is at least a half to full point leaner than before. My assumption is that this turbo is just so much more efficient that it is making up for the loss of compression.

I do have a few things that aren't buttoned up, and I need to switch the car back to 91-93 octane, as the E85 won't get me where I want to be power wise with these injectors. Also, I don't have coolant temp hooked up to a gauge yet, or oil pressure, a gamble for sure.

Last night the car ran at 182-183 degrees water temp the entire test drives. This morning, it stayed 180-182 most of my drive in at 55mph, and hit a high of 190 on the 4 miles of interstate, and city driving right after. I am good with these numbers, however, I will be adding some sort of frontal blocks for the areas of the bumper that are still open, in an attempt to force flow to the radiator.

Today will be more varied driving, to get the clutch and engine completely broke in. The clutch is a 6 puck sprung disk, which in a 2000lb car is pretty finicky! I will still stay out of boost for another 100 miles or so. My wastegate spring is 14psi, so I have some work to do there, since I haven't ran that high on my 91 octane tune.

Thanks for looking!
 
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