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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Full history: I've owned 2001 insight 5MT for a little over a year (daily driver). Previous owner said battery was replaced in 2016. The 12 volt battery visually looked bad from the get go but had it tested at auto shop and they said it was still good (surprisingly). Started having IMA battery issues near the end of 2017 with often recals. Then the ima went out altogether with P1449 & P1447. I built a low amp (~270mah) grid charger. Worked for a couple weeks before IMA lit up and got P1576 code. Grid charging and resetting frequently worked up till about 6 weeks ago, then no responding to grid charging. IMA P1576 on basically all the time.

Today: On start of my 10 mile commute to work the battery and brake light stayed lit for the first time (uh oh). I barely made it to my work parking lot (Waukegan, IL) with loss of power steering, loss of dash lights, poor running, etc. Coasted in to parking lot. Car will not start now. I left town for business and will return Thursday evening.

When I return Thursday, I plan to buy a new 12 volt battery and replace in the parking lot. What else should I do before driving the 10 miles back home? What else should I do in general at this point besides dropping $2000 for new hybrid battery on a car I bought for $1300?

Also, has anyone figured out how to bypass the hybrid battery altogether AND avoid CEL to pass emissions testing? I passed emissions earlier this year in that short period right after grid charging initially. Supposedly I have to do another test next year which is bogus because it is suppose to be every 2 years in Illinois.
 

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Hi Mike,

If you don't bypass the hybrid battery, your 12v battery won't charge. Chances are good there's nothing wrong with it.

There is a well documented fix that turns off the IMA and CEL. However, tampering with emissions is illegal so this is for "offroad use only" ;) so don't try to pass emissions with it, even though you probably could.

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum...7-how-completely-remove-your-ima-battery.html

EDIT: To get your car home, what you should do is charge up your old 12v battery, then unplug the connectors from the BCM:



I can't remember for certain which plug needs to be removed from the BCM but I believe it's fine to unplug all of them.
 

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See my signature below for details.

You'll have to change your driving style due to lack of IMA and lack of torque below 2000rpm. The engine likes to be above 2000rpm to keep in power band so I shift to second from first at 4000rpm, and shift to third from second at 3000rpm.

All IMA bypass hardware cost less than $30, a little more if you need to buy a solder iron, crimping tool and terminals.

IMA bypassed



Arduino Uno to keep the CEL from coming on.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am so glad a full solution for an entire IMA bypass has finally come. This will be the next project to tackle. No more silly battery issues to deal with again. I have driven the insight with no assist for a bit and know to keep the RPMs up for the car to accelerate slow and not REALLY slow lol.

Unfortunately I cannot charge the existing battery while I'm on my trip since I'm the only one with the key to my car. I was thinking of just having a coworker buddy trickle the battery while I took the cover off the battery to do the temporary non-legit IMA bypass (unplug two cables) just so that the dc-dc charge is returned to the battery. Does this sound like a feasible plan? I could drive this way I'm assuming until the Arduino stuff arrives?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm assuming the fuel pump is powered off of the battery, which is why the car barely even ran when I pulled into the parking lot. I'm not even sure the car would start by jumping it due to the low fuel pressure. I'll trickle the battery while I do the bypass and still jump the car off my co-workers car after the bypass. Wish me luck, I'm about to board my flight back from Kentucky in a second.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Update, Developments & more quesions:

So I disconnected the (2) BCM plugs and tried starting my insight with my current 12v battery and it still got nothing. In fact, even with my 12v jumped to my co-workers car 12v, everything was dim and my car didn't crank (which was really weird because my car should have at least cranked while jumped with another good battery).

I bought a new battery and voila, my car came to life. 12v symbol went away and the bypass seemed to work.

I think that old battery might have been the original battery from 2001 since it said Honda genuine (yikes) and maybe the cells blew up (the battery itself was a bit bulged).

With this development knowing that my 12v was so horrible, do you think my hybrid battery was throwing code P1576 due to my horrible 12v battery? Is that code linked with a really bad 12v battery? After I started grid charging, I wasn't getting the constant battery recals like I used to get before grid charging. I'm thinking there is a chance my hybrid battery might still actually have some life (like I said, it was supposedly replaced in 2016).

Also generic grid charging question, should I unplug my 12 volt when grid charging? Since I just bought a new 12v battery I want to make sure I do not do any damage to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced the (2) under the air filter area since they were frayed apart. The cable on the negative of 12v battery looks good. I don't know where the fourth ground cable is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I found the fourth ground cable (the smallest of the four). Still appears intact. I've been driving with the (2) BCM cables detached. I plan to do a long grid charge and re-connect the cables to see if the bad 12v had anything to do with the P1576 code I was previously getting. Perhaps I still have hydrid battery life left? Before I do so, is there any sense in detaching the 12v during the grid charge? I just want to make sure I do not damage the new 12v in anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The fourth cable looked intact. Thanks for showing that, is was a sneakier ground cable to find.

Before I do a grid charge, does it make any sense to disconnect the 12v battery while grid charging? I want to make sure I don't damage the new 12v battery. Also, will the (2) BCM cables unplugged matter for grid charging? I plan to hook the plugs back up after grid charging to see if the bad 12v battery had anything to do with the P1576 code I was previously getting. Maybe my IMA battery still has some life.
 

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You're not going to damage the new 12v battery. To my knowledge, the only way to hurt it is to run it completely flat.

When grid charging, it doesn't matter what you have or don't have connected to the battery. The rest of the car is "off" until you turn the ignition. You could grid charge with the battery in your living room, or with everything connected in the car, and it's effectively the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I did a 24 hour grid charge and reconnected the BCM cables. Still getting the CEL and IMA light, so if anyone was curious, a bad 12v battery doesn't appear to be a cause for the P1576 code. I still don't think my hybrid battery is completely dead, but perhaps a bad connection or something. I'm not sure. I have to look into more P1576 causes.
 

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I had a similar thing happen to me:

I have been driving with the IMA and CEL on for a while after a grid charge and a reset will only last for a 40 min drive.

I noticed that the dash was dim today driving on the freeway like I had the headlights. Then the radio would shut off or change channels when I use the turn signals. Then the dash came back on at full brightness with every light lit. I new I was in trouble when the engine lost power trying to accelerate and the the power steering when out. Then I parked the car and needed a jump.
 

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And check your ground straps.

Sam
 

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So I did a 24 hour grid charge and reconnected the BCM cables. Still getting the CEL and IMA light, so if anyone was curious, a bad 12v battery doesn't appear to be a cause for the P1576 code. I still don't think my hybrid battery is completely dead, but perhaps a bad connection or something. I'm not sure. I have to look into more P1576 causes.
See this thread for the P1576 code.

https://www.insightcentral.net/forums/problems-troubleshooting/105930-p1576-12-a.html

Sam
 

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Nope, your 12v battery sounds dead. You need to take that 12v out and get it charged and tested.
Well, the jump started the car and pulling the fuse reset the IMA and the car ran great for most of the ride home. The IMA light came on again, but everything was fine besides that.

I measured the 12V when the car was off and it 12+V. The next drive was good.

the ground straps are still there, but the one under the air filter looks ratty.
 
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