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Here we go. My first experience bringing the Green one into a Honda dealership.
Background: 4 times in the last week the car has not started, then after a while, did start but with zero bars of IMA displayed. After driving for a while while it force-charged itself, it suddenly zoomed up to max charge displayed. I have been unable to think of any consistent "thing" that I did to instigate this. The lights work, power windows, everything, it just won't start and then does its recalibration.
I bring it in for its 30k inspection and tell them to please determine what is causing this new problem. Note-When I dropped off the car it had near full charge.
So, I tell the dealer all of this, and, shockingly...they have no clue. They hook it up to the computer and get no error messages, so I must be a loon. The service guy tells me that the car had only 2 or 3 bars of charge when he got in it (an HOUR AFTER I had dropped it off with a full charge), but that it charged right up to near full after he took it for a quick spin, so, he claimed, he could find nothing wrong in that! He actually said, "Hey, this was a first year model, they do strange things" In retrospect, maybe he's right.

The next day my car is 'ready'. I go in and they tell me they found nothing wrong. I asked them if they consider this new NO START/DRAIN/CHARGE thing as there being 'nothing wrong'. They said, no, but since nothing showed up as being wrong, there must not be anything wrong. Did I say how much I love dealers? Actually they were quite nice people, but if I want nice people I'll go to a park, I want my car fixed!

So....30 minutes after picking up my car with 'nothing wrong', it won't start again.

I suppose I should go right back in tomorrow, but why? What can they do if the computer doesn't say anything's wrong? It seems to be the only entity that knows about this car according to Honda. AND, to make matters worse, since they found nothing wrong, I was stuck with the 1 day car rental since Honda Care won't cover it unless the dealer has a code for a problem.

Thanks to many of you, I asked them if it could be the 12V battery. The service guy said, "Well, maybe, but why would everything else be working, and why would it only do it intermittantly" My answer: "My mechanic days stopped when I attempted to rebuild a carb on my old '66 Mustang...how do I know?" I'm checking the paperwork to see if they even tested the 12V...I thought he said he had, but wouldn't that have indicated a prob?

I have found an Optima battery (D51R?) for $139. Should I put that one in there and see if it solves this prob?

Comments/scoldings/shoulders to cry on..all appreciated.
Thanks for reading.

Kyle
 

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Grnmachine, Grnmachine, Grnmachine :sigh:

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=2335

Gave them the carrot on the stick before making them go the distance did you :?:
[ Let them do the 30K (brainless) work before requiring diagnosis of the no start (*may* be a brain buster). ]

But it's a well worn path your on and battery testing is available (free :?: ) at Auto Zones ( :?: ) and the like. The Optima isn't a bad choice. But unless your in very cold conditions and expect that the back-up starter (12v system starter) will be used frequently then a "greener" choice is a Hawker. ;)

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=2335

http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529

HTH! :)
 

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Intermittant connections at the 12V battery could cause this. First thing would be to remove and clean both battery lugs and the battery terminals, and make sure to clean the firewall ground. Measuring the battery under load is easy. Turn the headlights on high with the car shut off, then check the voltage. Should be well above 12V. Anything lower then about 12.5 or so is suspect.
 

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BTW. You want a 51 series battery, not a 51R. The R designates reversed terminals. Civics and the like use a 51R, the insights use a 51 (no R).

And thats only a fair price for an Optima.
 

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Use that serch function!

Use that search function! as good ol' Trekker hints along :wink: But sometimes it gives you so much you still can't find what you're looking for. :roll:
Anyhow, I'm voting for a tired 12v battery or corroded terminals. Like Aaron says. I'll bet if you turn on the headlights and give it a shot at cranking, the lights will likely go way dim, if they come on at all, when you hit the key. The IMA will always be 'zeroed' when the 12v system is disconnected ( or likeley as well, the voltage drops below a given point ). Additionally, a voltage interuption clears the computer memory. :? And while you're at cleaning terminals and such, check the 2 ground wires that are on the driver's side of the engine compartment kind of under the air cleaner box. Found one of those falling apart on my car.
 
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