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Discussion Starter #1
I've recently purchased my 2000 and do not yet have the repair manual, so wanting some help. The other day, the driver's window stopped working. It was about 4 inches down. Does not move up or down. I checked fuses, and the 20A fuse under the dash is okay, as is the 40A fuse under the hood. The passenger window still operates. I took apart the door, and got at the wiring to the motor. I am getting 12V to at least one wire going into the motor (I did not write down exactly which wire). There are two red wires (one with yellow and one with blue stripe, if I remember correctly) and two blue wires going to the motor. Without the manual, and lacking knowledge of window motors, I'm not sure which wires do what, and thus what voltage to expect at each when I operate the switch.

Any suggestions on diagnosing--i.e., motor versus switch? The motor/regulator assembly runs $268 locally, so I want the correct diagnosis before buying.

Thanks much.

Duane.
 

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Re: diagnosing window motor

I have the same problem with my passenger side window. But I just applied 12V to the motor directly and found it's working perfectly. So I believe my problem is with the switch on the driver's left hand side that controls if you will allow the passenger to operate the window. I think there are other people here complaining about that switch so maybe that causes your too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks.

I applied 12V directly to each of the red-wire contacts on the motor. No response at all from the motor--voltage did not drop at all either. Looks like it's time to order a motor/regulator assembly.

Duane.
 

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Yes, looks like your is a motor problem. If you want to save some money, there is a cheaper way to do this. Most of the case, the motor only needs new brushes. The brushes only cost maybe couple of dollars and you can replace them by yourself. One of my friends just did it on his Nissan.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
WhyHonda,

When I was checking things out, I took apart the motor, partly because that was the only way I figured out to be able to move the window up (I wanted it closed, because it is now cold here in Maryland!). When the motor was apart, I cleaned the main part, and I looked at the brushes, and to me they looked okay. I also verified that they still conduct electricity (just checked ohms). I'm not good enough with motors to know how to tell if brushes would do the trick. To my unexperienced eyes, there was nothing obvious to indicate a problem with the brushes. So I'm okay buying the expensive part (but at least saving some by installing myself). So I went ahead and ordered a motor/regulator assembly today. Supposed to come in Friday so I hope to install it over the weekend.

Duane.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
[changed subject because I think I have them.]

So, I thought I needed the motor-regulator assembly, and special ordered (i.e., not returnable) one from my dealer, at big bucks. It arrived Friday, I picked it up, and on my way out of the dealership I decided to try the window. And it worked fine. I have had the door apart two times, had the motor apart each time, ttested voltage to the motor, and have run current direct to the motor, and every time I put it back together I tried the window multiple times. And nothing had worked until leaving the dealership.

Anyone have any thoughts? I did clean the motor commutator when I had it apart, but it did not work when I first put it all back together. Do I have gremlins in the motor, or in the switch? I thought motor (see above posts), but now I am wondering again.

Thanks,

Duane.
 

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Gremlins commonly "get in" when disassembling parts not designed for such.

Its not that it can't be done. Just that it probably shouldn't be done.

And while you can save money doing so there is the time lost / cost factor that chasing gremlins involves. Often they don't tire easily. ;)

p.s. Nice touch :!: Renaming the thread, instead of starting another. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I understand about not disassembling parts not intended for that. I had figured the motor was shot, and did not see any down side to taking it apart. And now the window works, either because (1) of taking it apart and reassembling, or (2) luck/gremlins have allowed the rest of the system to work. Point is I'm now not sure if it was the motor or if it was the switch plus gremlins.

I'll probably just keep the old motor in, tighten everything up, clean and lube the window runners, and put the door cover back on, and see how long it keeps working. Next time it happens, I've got the motor/regulator, and by now I know how to take it all apart :!:

Duane.
 

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Ah, but did the gremlins really
leave to go off an infect another
car (hopefully not a neighbor's Honda)
or have they simply taken residence
in anoher part of your car?
 

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Duane,

Since you almost touched everywhere in that whole system, the possibility of any loose contacts at most places can be eliminated. But I did notice you missed one spot, that is the contacts of those motor coils. You saw those tiny wires soldered on to the collar that touches brushes, if any of those points got loose, you will have this kind of problem. Just a thought.

I don't want to make you feel any worse, but can't help let you know this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-In ... 4368QQrdZ1

Take it easy!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whyhonda,

Thanks for the additional thought. I've held off putting the door cover (lacking a correct term) back on, partly thinking the problem might occur again. Maybe I'll take apart the motor one more time to check those connections between the windings and the collar or commutator (sorry about terms).

Hey, thanks for rubbing it in with the link to the ebay listing. :lol: (just kidding). In a way that ebay listing makes me feel bad, but not really. I understand that in doing it myself I will sometimes get it wrong, and I can live with it. And ebay is real hit or miss, especially for Insight parts. Although, based on the list price of $268.25, the one on ebay should be a good deal for AppleTree. :!:

Duane.
 

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FWIW, my 'old '04 had a slow drivers window. Problem was caused by a binding window chanel, replaced by the dealer under warranty. The dealer's tech claimed this is a common problem with Insights, and that if the binding goes unrepaired it will eventually overload and fry the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
[gremlins in] window AGAIN!

So as of a year and a half ago, the drivers side power window was working fine again.

But, a week ago, it stopped working. I still had the new window motor/regulator unit, so I installed that. No luck. Tried checking voltage to the two red wires going to the motor. I got voltage on one, with the switch activated, but no voltage to the other with the switch in the other position. So I figured it must be the master window switch this time. Ordered a switch (Thanks go to Majestic Honda--discount price [about 55% of what my local dealer wanted] and fast shipping). Put it in this morning and...nothing.

BTW, I did check the fuses, and all appear okay. Even switched some around to different positions (between the passenger window fuse, drivers window fuse, and door lock fuse--all 20 A). Checked the 40A fuse under the hood as well. The passenger window works fine, with either of the two master switches I have now. Not sure if it matters, but a couple weeks earlier, the auto down position of the switch (to go all the way down) stopped working.

Anyone have thoughts on what I'm missing? Are there relays somewhere that I need to check? I'm very frustrated by this, and can't drive the car with the window down (well not when it might rain anyway.

Thanks for any help.

Duane.

2000 citrus
 

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The problem may be a stuck auto down switch, try this...

With the key out of the ignition, push the drivers window switch up, past the middle of the switch detent, hold itfor a minute or two. Put the key in and turn the ignition on and see if the window goes up.

I broke my auto down a few months ago. Now if I let it go down and stay all of the way down with the switch in the lower position, the circuit breaker in the door will pop, and the window will be dead. The only way to resurrect it is to do the switch up power off routine. The breaker will reset automatically after a minute or so without power.

I almost always do a window "bounce" now. Bring the window all of the way down, and immediately bring it up a fraction of an inch. Make sure that the switch stays in the middle position and not the lower position.

Also grease the window channels with Shin Etsu

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Kevin,

Thanks for the thought. However, It does not sound quite like the problem I have (now had). I had tried two window motors and two master switches, and had been testing this over several days, with no luck. Over the several days, the power was off many times. However, it could have been my problem. I was not aware of a circuit breaker for the power window. Where in the circuit is that breaker?

Status: It turned out that one evening (I think Monday) after spending some time poking/prodding/testing, I left the key in the ignition on position, so the next day the 12V battery was discharged totally. I charged the battery the next night, and also pulled out and then simply put back in the black, relay-looking devices in the wheelwell next to the fuses (there are three, vertically arranged). When the battery was recharged, and the relays (?) reinstalled, the window then worked okay again. So I buttoned up the door and dash and am back to driving it, but still wondering what was the problem and what did I do to fix it. Maybe it was this circuit breaker you mentioned, maybe a loose connection?

Duane.
 
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