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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know of a simple way to disable just assist? I saw the topic on the clutch switch, but it seems that it doesn't work for the 2006. Any other simple ways out there?

I'd like to try having no assist and maintain the charge as usual for the 12 volt system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll take a look at it. It doesn't look too promising though. There were two people in the thread that reported it didn't work on their 2006, and no one reported that it did work on theirs.

But if it's simple to just remove the switch and leave it open its worth a quick try. I take it you haven't come across any mention of another way to do it? What about a nuetral indicator, if there is one on the Insight? I wonder if it wouldn't assist if it thought it was in nuetral. I wonder if it would adversely affect anything else?
 

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Tranquility said:
I take it you haven't come across any mention of another way to do it?
Not within the bounds of your first posts qualifications. ;)

AFAIK your only other "option" is much more comprehensive, complex and costly.

See:
http://www.insightcentral.net/forum/vie ... php?t=5237

and follow the links according to your choices.

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info.

I've seen it and while it looks to be a great product I'm a little hesitant to trash my warranty. I can't imagine Honda would be too sympathetic if an IMA problem developed, even if it had nothing to do with the product installation or use, nor could I really blame them.

I'm attempting to work toward IMA battery longevity. I seem to have come quite a ways without disabling assist. I can run around town without depleting more than two or three bars on the SoC. That's a big improvment for me. Before it would drop down halfway or more and slip into forced charge. But to do this I have to accellerate really slow, too slow really. Second gear seems to be the hardest gear to work with in the 2006. It seems near impossible to acheive any kind of acceleration in second gear, even on level roads, without assist engaging.

So I thought it would be kinda neat if there were a simple way to disable just the assist and leave everything else at statis-quo. But I guess it's all far to integrated for it to be a simple thing to do. Oh well.

I can still hope the clutch switch might work after all. Thank you again.
 

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the switch in the back of the car that disables the high voltage battery pack .

If you ridged a remote method to switch that switch on and off from the front of the car you could disable Assist any time you want.... when the High Voltage is switched off the car functions just off of the 12V starter and all accressories and such run from the 12V battery.

A few things to concider.... Turning off the High Voltage will also Disable Regenerative braking .... and it will more than likely disable the Idel Stop feature .... and For sure it will disable the cars alternator function as it goes through the High Voltage Battery as a DC-DC step down .... so without alternator function you won't want to stay in the mode of operation for long periods of time.

If you do this ... You will probably want to setup a simple voltage meter to run off the accessory outlet so you can keep an eye on the 12V batteries Voltage level... if it dips too low flip the high voltage switch back on so the cars alternator functions will kick back in...

If you did this I would recomend ONLY disableing the assist during accelerations and to turn the high voltage switch back on at cruising and for regenerative braking and such... and keep an eye on the 12V battery level or setup a dumy device on the switch to auto maticly switch the high voltage back on when the 12V Lead Acid gets below a safe level.

Also Once you have completely charged up the high voltage battery with regenerative braking it would make NO sence at all to waste future regenerative braking opertunities by not activating the assist and using some of the stored up / recycled braking energy....

If you are cleaver enough to rig up such a remote switch it shouldn't cost much as far as money goes... but will be tricky to rig it to work reliably and as outlined above there are concerns about staying in 12V mode for long periods of time. . . . but it should be able to be done for less money and without voiding any warrenties if done carefully and creatively...

my 2 bits...
 

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I've seen it and while it looks to be a great product I'm a little hesitant to
trash my warranty. I can't imagine Honda would be too sympathetic if an
IMA problem developed, even if it had nothing to do with the product
installation or use, nor could I really blame them.
I quess I don'tget it....Any modification to the IMA system has a chance
of voiding the IMA warranty. Yet it seems like only one mod is being
thought as having that reputation. It begns wit the letter M...Most people
will know the mod I'm talking about.

Has anyone tried flipping the main circuit breaker for the battery while
the car is running and computers are powered up?..Just the thought of
it sounds to me like the most dangerous thing you could attempt for the
IMA system.

If you take your car in for warranty and the problem is related to any
mod be it the famous radiator block for overheating reasons or IMA mods
described above, Honda as the right not to honor your warranty.

I know part of this is a bit off topic but I believe some of the suggestions
posted should also include warnings about what could possibly go wrong
(preferably by the same poster) An example of this would be an older
thread that would have you turning off the ignition (manually) to save
gas while going downhill. There are safety problems if you turn the key
too far and the steering may lock without you knowing it until its too late.

Now back on topic: If you are truly concerned about IMA warranty then
don't do any mods related (even slightly) to the IMA system.

Joe CVT - Just your average CVT owner
 

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Discussion Starter #8
joecvt said:
If you are truly concerned about IMA warranty then
don't do any mods related (even slightly) to the IMA system.
That seems like good advice to me. Given the cost of the IMA components it's a big concern of mine.
 

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Tranquility, the clutch switch is part of the existing IMA system. It should work on the 06 model. Have you tried it?

Ian, messing around with the IMA battery could be deadly. This sounds like a rather extreme method to acomplish a simple task, assuming the clutch switch works. I can not see how the clutch switch would not work as this appears to be its primary function. If the IMA regens when the car is idling in neutral it will stall the engine. If the IMA assists when the clutch is pushed in it will rev up the engine and waste fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the clutch switch is a dud on the 2006, just as reported. I pulled the small harness apart behind the switch which uncouples the wires from the switch. I had to pop start the car, indicating it was working.

Drove out and it has both assist and regen just as before. No noticable change, accept it wont let the car start. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
b1shmu63 said:
Tranquility, the clutch switch is part of the existing IMA system. It should work on the 06 model. Have you tried it?
As you can see in my last post, I just tried today. (we were typing our posts at the same time) If it's still monitoring clutch engagement for IMA function it's doing it somewhere else besides at the pedel. Starter lockout still occurs at the pedel, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well that might have something to do with it! :D

I think I must have disabled the clutch engaged switch. Unplugging it would presumably open the circuit and signal the clutch is disengaged. That's what it would seem anyway, given the starter was locked out with it disconnected. But I'm going to have to take another look.

The switch I found was in front of the pedal lever, the side closest to the driver seat. Thanks again! I never even thought of looking for a second switch.

Edit: Come to think of it, the switch I disconnected must be the one that is activated when the clutch is depressed completely because that is where the starter lockout is deactivated.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well... I can't find a second switch anywhere off the clutch lever. I'll do some Googling to see if I can find anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This image is taken from an article located here. It shows the two clutch switches that you mention, John. Unfortunately, where you see the second lower switch in the picture that also acts as the stop for the clutch lever there is no switch in the 2006. There is just the stop. The upper switch in the picture with the yellow harness looks identical to the switch that is in the 2006. It is the one I disconnected.

[mod insert] The first pic below is showing an added switch for aftermarket cruise control installation. Factory equipped Insights only have one clutch switch. Read the remainder of the thread for further clarification.[end insert]

Removed picture to avoid confusion, Tranquility.

The image below shows how the same area looks in my 2006. You can see that where the lower switch once was is now just a bolt style stop:

 

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MY BAD :!: :( Sorry :!:

There are NOT 2 clutch switches. Wrong car in mind. I've now gotten out the ETM AND poked my head under the dash of my 02 to confirm. Its like the pic above.

However, the clutch switch IS normally _open_ (confirmed) and closes to ground when the clutch is engaged. A simple jumper across the end of the removed connector will accomplish the task :!:

Seems like we're hot on the trail now... :)
(hopefully)

HTH! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks again for your help. If you bounce back to page one you'll see I added a picture from under the dash in my 2006. You'll see the second switch is gone. :( I guess we can understand why it was being reported that the clutch switch - assist disable trick wasn't working in the 2006.

Upon closer inspection I can confirm that the single switch that is in the 2006 is not engaged until the clutch pedal is nearly completely depressed. I don't know if it will do what we want, but I'll try shorting it to see. It may be that its only function is to release the starter lockout.

This is the switch you mention that shorts to ground (closes) when activated by the pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm still thinking about that nuetral switch. I don't know if there is one, if it's accessable, or if it will do what I want. I also don't know what else to expect if the car thinks it's in nuetral when it's not.

I'm going to go pull the clutch switch and short it. Let you know...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
A handy paperclip and I managed to short the switch wires. It behaves like described by other 2006 owners in the other thread. No decelleration initiated charge, no braking initiated charge, and plenty of assist. Rats.
 

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Discussion Starter #20


I notice that the piece connecting the clutch arm to the shaft is also different (see arrow in pic above). That wouldn't be a pressure switch, is it?
 
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