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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had the fuel pump out, so I thought I might as well take some pictures, and maybe it will help someone else do this task. The Fuel-Pump or Senders rarely fail (unless your get in an accident/rear-ended)


Note how many bars show on the Dash Fuel Guage. So that after you have installed it all back, you can check again to see if its the same amount of bars, just to check if you didnt accidentally damage the sender (very delicate!!)


The fuel pump is accessible without dropping the fuel tank which is convenient.
This is for the Manual Insight. The CVT is very similar

Tools Needed:

10mm socket
Philips/Flathead Screw Driver
Hammer



Instructions:

Disconnect 12v battery and Flip IMA relay switch to OFF for safety.
Fuel Pressure can be relieved by unbolting the nut on the left side of the fuel rail in the engine bay, and immediately re-tighten.
Remove Rear speakers if you have them.
Pop off the side trim panels and the runner panels.
Remove the Center Cargo Net pocket (7 Phillips screws) (Optional, see below)
Remove HandBrake Cover. (2 screws on rear sides)
Remove 6 Grey push fasteners at bottom of carpet to remove and fold back carpet over rear.
Remove Middle Panel (13 Bolts (10mm) )


(You dont necessarily have to remove the cargo net pocket if you remove the aluminum panel with the carpet attached. From the bottom (after removing the handbrake cover), remove the grey clips, and just flip up the carpet half way and undo the row of 10mm bolts, and from the top remove the grey clips behind the cross bar, flip the carpet down half way to expose the top row of 10mm bolts and you can remove them. I find the little screw caps for the pocket very fragile and usually break when you try to open and unscrew.)






Remove IMA Vent (3 10mm Bolts)
Unplug FuelPump/Sender Connector
Remove Fuel Pump access Plate (4 10mm Bolts)




Remove Fuel Hoses (Squeeze Retainer Clip and Pull pipe away)
*According to the manual, do not remove the retainer clips from the pipes or they have to be replaced*

Unscrew Plastic Retainer ring on FuelPump (Use Special honda tool, or tap the ridges with a flathead and a hammer to turn it loose)

*Make note of the position of the FuelPump Assembly. There will be marks on the right side*



The CVT fuel pump will just have one fuel line going to the pump since its a returnless system.

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Pull out the Fuel Pump Assembly carefully at an angle, as the Fuel Sender unit is still attached. It should pop up since its got a spring inside.



Fuel Pump assembly has 2 Connectors. One for the FuelPump and one for the sender assembly. Everything slides/pops in or out of its place. Pretty simple actually. Here are some pictures of the fuel pump. There is a Suction Filter at the bottom and another FuelFilter near the center of the assembly (not visible)



More Pictures (Click links)
Sender Unit

Connectors for Sender and Fuel Pump

Whole Fuel Pump Assembly


Installation:

Installation is reverse of removal.
When inserting the fuel pump assembly, make sure you insert it carefully with the sender attached, and at an angle. Its easier to slide the fuelPump assembly inside if the gasket is on the tank instead of the fuelPump assembly.
Make sure it is lined up with the correct marks.

Make sure the fuel hoses are connected securely, and possibly plug FuelPump connector and 12v Battery back, and do a key-on to pressurize the fuel system and check there are no leaks before closing everything.
 

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Great Photos and Details... I had pack rats that chewed up a rubber hose at the top of the fuel tank/sender unit, starting leaking gas... so I took it to Honda. They said they had to lower the fuel tank to access the $1.25 piece, cost $300 for their time. Now if it happens again I will know how to do it. Thanks a lot!

Re Hitech comment about the IMA fan vent - What 02Insight means is to remove the Fan Intake, the fan actually vents back into the IMA battery area and then into the Tire well area via holes in the IMA Battery area cage.
 

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Anyone have a Honda Fuel Sender / Tank Nut Tool 07XAA-001010A to loan or rent?

PM Me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
you dont really need that tool. I just tap the ridges on the nut with a screwdriver and hammer and it drives it counterclockwise to open.
 

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I know.

I was looking for a better way to judge nut torque other than a screwdriver and a hammer. The two best tools in a man's toolbox.

I did get a large channel lock set and that made the difference. Lower half of the pump module had bent tabs. It's all back together now.

You would think that since the assembly is sprung against the tank floor that there would be a knob or something to prevent the pump module from exploding like that in a crash.

I'm letting it all dry overnight. With the fuel lines off, full tank, and 107 degrees, the fuel was expanding into the catch basin around the fuel pump. Don't want to connect the battery yet. Not in a rush.

Great Thread.
 

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I know.

I was looking for a better way to judge nut torque other than a screwdriver and a hammer. The two best tools in a man's toolbox.

I did get a large channel lock set and that made the difference. Lower half of the pump module had bent tabs. It's all back together now.

You would think that since the assembly is sprung against the tank floor that there would be a knob or something to prevent the pump module from exploding like that in a crash.

I'm letting it all dry overnight. With the fuel lines off, full tank, and 107 degrees, the fuel was expanding into the catch basin around the fuel pump. Don't want to connect the battery yet. Not in a rush.

FYI:

07XAA-001010A Tank Nut Tool (fits many Hondas, probably all)

17045-S3Y-A00 Fuel Pump for 2000 Insight MT

Great Thread.
 

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First post on insight central. I did today and the fuel pump was not held on by the tabs, fell apart as i took it out. put it back together and fuel gauge is working again :). But i'm trying to figure out how to torque down the cap some more. Its on tight now, but i dont think its on like it was, afraid its gonna leak .


On a separate note, i found water behind the passenger side area, by where the rear speaker would be, under the ima fan vent housing on the floor. . not sure where it came from. could that be from the junction between roof and fender, removing the top pillar and adding some seal.
 

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So, is the "fuel filter" (the one that may at some point need to be replaced in a typical vehicle) contained in the middle of the orange contraption?
 

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It is on the bottom of the "contraption".
It is a microfilter screen.
It probably will never have to be replaced. Most vehicles are built that way now.

Willie
 

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Thanks. The first post led me to believe there was another filter in the middle.

A while ago I was doing research on the check engine codes my car had and I found one of them to be an evap code that was commonly associated on here with a faulty fuel cap. (At this moment I can't remember the code)

But I'm curious if other than the fuel cap, if a faulty/clogged filter, or failing fuel pump could cause a similar/same code as well ? I am fairly certain my fuel cap is still fine, there are no clear areas on it where the seal is destroyed, or ruined, and when the gas gets low and I remove it I can hear air being "sucked" (I assume)- in. Which leads me to believe there is still a very functional seal there. .
 

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I am fairly certain my fuel cap is still fine, there are no clear areas on it where the seal is destroyed, or ruined, and when the gas gets low and I remove it I can hear air being "sucked" (I assume)- in. Which leads me to believe there is still a very functional seal there. .
Hmm, I've never heard any sound due to a pressure differential between the tank and the atmosphere. I wonder whether a pressure differential should ever occur. The fuel tank is connected to the engine intake through a system that traps and routes gasoline vapors to the engine intake, so I wonder whether something in your vapor control system isn't working properly.
 

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There can be a small positive pressure in the fuel tank but there should never be a vacuum. I think there is a check valve in the cap to allow air into the tank but not let pressure (vapors) out. The vapors must go thru the charcoal canister to exit the system.
 

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With that being said, the air I hear could be coming out of the tank? I just figured it was most likely going in. The only time I hear it is when the fuel level is low low low low.

I just pulled a couple codes anyway, I'm going to start with the more common ones I've found on here anyway. Just figured I'd ask a little bit to try and cover this for when I get to it. It's been far too long without diagnosis and fixin' of some of these check engine codes. :X
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks. The first post led me to believe there was another filter in the middle.
There actually is a filter in the middle. The filter at the bottom is just a suction filter to filter out larger particles in the tank, then inside the middle area, there is a chamber filled with filter material for finer filtering.
See Picture of middle filter here: http://i.imgur.com/yjvq7.jpg

See this album for pictures I took showing assembly of the fuel pump
Fuel Filter - Imgur

 

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Wtf part do i have?!?! Help!!!! : )

i asked around about my car that was choking and weazing and jerking around, almost everyone said it was the fuel filter. so..... i talked to the honda parts guys and then i ordered a fuel filter from Honda for my car.

then i went through all the B.S. to get to the fuel filter as instructed above... and when i got there.... I DON'T SEE ANYWHERE THAT THE PART I HAVE GOES!

Here's the part i have:
http://www.kittenforbunny.com/hondainsight/38.jpg

i don't see an old one of these in my car to replace. i pulled apart the fuel pump and there aint nowhere for this peice to go.

any clues?!?! : )
 
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