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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I took out my radio today, and decided to take pictures to make it easy for anyone else to do this.


Tools required - phillips screw driver , flat head screwdriver and 8mm socket and wrench.

1. First thing you need to do is take out the panel where the power outlet is, below the radio. It attaches only with six clips, there are no screws holding it. Basically you have to just grab it and pull back hard. Mine was a pain to get off. I suggest putting the gear lever in L to give you more space. Once you pulled it off, disconnect the black connector. It has a small tab you have to push underneath to remove it.



This is what it looks like after you have removed it.



Here you can see the six clips that hold it in place.



Now you have to open the little compartment right below the radio, and remove the cover panel. Just use a small flat head. It has a notch where you can just pry it open. It pops right out.

 

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Discussion Starter #2


Here you will find the one screw that holds the radio in place. Its an 8 mm socket. You will have to access it from below, through the space where the power outlet panel was.



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now in order to push out the radio from behind, you have to remove the glove box.
First you pull out the black cover panel below the dash, its attached by three clips. Just grab it and pull forward, it pops right out with no force.





Now remove the glove box. Its held on by two 8 mm bolts underneath and a black plastic catch on the right side. Just unscrew the bolts, pull off the plastic arm on the right and pull forward. You have to press the tabs in the rear of the glove in wards. These tabs stop the glove box from opening all the way. Just push in to clear the sides and the whole thing slides out.



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Now just reach in and push the radio forward with your hands. I was able to push it enough to pop it out with my hands only. The manual states to use a blunt object like the handle of a hammer, slide it in behind the radio and then using the leverage, pop it out. I was able to just push forward, then with your other hand, grab the panel the radio resides in, by pushing forward there should be a small gap where you can grab the panel, then just pull it out. It pops right out, as its only held in place by clips.



BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT LET THE METAL FRAME OF THE RADIO TOUCH THE DASH AFTER YOU HAVE PULLED IT FORWARD, it will scratch the dash very easily. I suggest you put a towel underneath the radio before you pull it forward to avoid scratching the dash.

I scratched the dash underneath the radio. Little trick, use a black sharpie, fill in the scratch and then smear it around with your finger. It matched perfectly and you cant even tell it was scratched.


 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
There are four connectors you have to disconnect (I Have an LX with no USB). They are the antenna, the radio wire harness, the hazard switch, and the airbag switch. The antenna, hazard and airbag switches, you have to push a little tab, then they pop out. This picture shows the radio after I removed the connectors.



The radio connector has a white tab, that you need to use a screwdriver to pry open. Just use a flat head to pry it open.



PS - Here you can see where the metal frame of the radio scratched the dash. Its just to the left of the gray connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Now you have to move the hazard and airbag switch to the new radio mounting frame. They are both held in place by phillips screws. Each has two. Just unscrew them and then transfer them to the new frame and reattach.





Also remember to transfer over the red plastic pieces that are located in the tabs from the original frame. Be careful as they are really fragile. With out these, the frame will not clip in.



This is the aftermarket double din frame that will go back in place of the factory one.




That's it, at this point just add your radio of choice, wire it up and your done. Slide the new frame back in, connect the hazard and airbag switch, antenna and radio harness. Let it clip back in. (note I dont know if the 8mm screw will fit back into an aftermarket radio, Maybe Cobb can comment on this). Put back the small cover, and the panel which holds the power outlet and you are done.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM.

Hope this helps anyone who is on the fence of doing this by themselves. Its very easy, and it took me about 20 minutes from start to end.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Updated instructions with steps to not use a screwdriver to remove the radio.

This way now you dont damage the dash.
 

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There are four connectors you have to disconnect (I Have an LX with no USB). They are the antenna, the radio wire harness, the hazard switch, and the airbag switch. The antenna, hazard and airbag switches, you have to push a little tab, then they pop out. This picture shows the radio after I removed the connectors.



The radio connector has a white tab, that you need to use a screwdriver to pry open. Just use a flat head to pry it open.



PS - Here you can see where the metal frame of the radio scratched the dash. Its just to the left of the gray connector.
Pictures seem to be gone even tried to go to link ,
farm3.static.flickr.com/2629/4531028563_942a86064a_o.jpg
Wes
 

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I was looking at putting in a Kenwood DNX-6160 Stereo. Is it my undertstanding there is some additional items that needs to be acquired? a trim plate, I heard Metra and Scoche makes these was one better then the other? Also I read about antenna connection issue, there is some adapter. Is there a list of what and where to get these items and item numbers?

Also my sister said there is a security feature built into the stock radio do you have to disable something on that to remove the radio?

the USB connector in the center console, can that be used with an aftermarket radio? I like the idea of putting the iphone in there with the holder..
 

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I didn't have to fully remove my glove box to replace the radio. I merely pushed in on the sides of the glove box (once opened) enough for the tabs that stick out to clear the opening, allowing the glove box to 'flop' down. Push in on one side at a time for best results. I had the most difficult time out of everything removing the pocket with the power port in it. Darn thing wouldn't release.
 

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I was looking at putting in a Kenwood DNX-6160 Stereo. Is it my undertstanding there is some additional items that needs to be acquired? a trim plate, I heard Metra and Scoche makes these was one better then the other? Also I read about antenna connection issue, there is some adapter. Is there a list of what and where to get these items and item numbers?

Also my sister said there is a security feature built into the stock radio do you have to disable something on that to remove the radio?

the USB connector in the center console, can that be used with an aftermarket radio? I like the idea of putting the iphone in there with the holder..
First, the metra faceplate is nice enough, matte black finish. second yes, the antenna adapter by metra is the 40-hd11. the wiring harness adapter is the metra 70-1729 or you can get crutchfield's insight harness.

third, the security feature is a code you have to enter into the radio after you reset it before you may use it again. my previous owner left his 5 digit number in the glove box.

fourth, your aftermarket radio will come with a usb cord sticking out of it already if it is a nice one and a separate connector for an ipod cord too. all you will need is the extension which for the usb is a 3 foot usb 2.0 A/A cable. (not A/B)
 

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Thanks for the great photos and details on how to remove the radio.

I intend to solder a LED using the power from the 12V power point to light up the nearby area. But I am really frustrated trying so dang hard to pull it but just wont come out! I removed the glove compartment but there are no space from the rear to pinch and release those clips! :mad:

Worst there is nothing to grip and pull, fingers are slipping out.
Anyone have any idea how I can pull that 12V point and tray out?
 

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Welcome aboard.

If you just need 12 volts, why not take it from the radio harness or run a jumper or add a circuit from the accessory fuse?

You trying to remove the cubby hole with the 12 volt outlet attached? Id try wiping the area with alcohol, your hand. Once it drys pretend you are going to grab the bone from the dogs mouth. With your hand palm facing upwards, place your fingers on the bottom of the cubby hole thing. Position your thumb inside it. Then with a quick motion, grip it, yonk it out, but careful not to pull back too far as there is a connector to unplug for the accessory plug.
 

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Thanks Cobb ! Yeah you were right, I cleaned up my hands and the interior with windows cleaner, give it a few blxxdy yank ..pop it came out! I plan to solder a tiny LED and put it at the hole in that cubby! :) So I guess don't need a complicating and tedious wiring from the fuse box.

Ok I understand if I tap power from the 12V socket, the LED will be powered once ignition is ON. Lets say if I want the LED to light up according to the parking lights, do you know which wire or pin from the radio harness to tap onto since the radio illumination follows the parking lights too.

Sorry guys, if I asked unrelated question to this radio removal topic, I am sorry ya.
 

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The orange wire of the radio harness controls the illumination with parking lights and brightness.
 

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Just a comment on the initial storage cubby removal...
Instead of yanking with your fingers (big fail for me), try using a rag and a pair of vice grips. Adjust your grips to the size of the cubby, place the rag over the "teeth" of the grips - give it a good yank.

Mine popped out with a single pull, no sweat, no tears, and no damage (thanks to the rag).

Pic of my recent install- Pioneer AVH-P5200DVD
 

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thats nice!!!!! :D
congrats!!!
id like to do that but i know nothing bout changing steors

my friend took his g35 coupe to best buy and they installed a really nice stereo with navi, and bluetooth and idk what else but looks really good!
they charged him a grand
they make it look like a stock radio, no mickey mouse stuff
id take it there but im afraid that this car is too new for them and they wouldnt know how to take off the radio or somethin :confused:
 

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Wow, not bad. I like single din vs double dins as they just take up less room. See your power steering light on, is that on purpose? I pulled the wire for mines.
 

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Wow, not bad. I like single din vs double dins as they just take up less room. See your power steering light on, is that on purpose? I pulled the wire for mines.
I had the car in "ON" so I could slide the shifter back for better access to that PITA cubby by the power outlet. Most of the dash was lit up, test lights, power steering included, etc...


Yeah - I LIKE double din installs from a factory "fit and finish" aspect, but it makes it too tempting for a break-in IMO.

The slide-away video headunit installs make it a bit "less obvious", plus it has a removeable faceplate for further deterrant. I also like the fact that it places the screen higher up on the dash, more within my line of sight while driving. You can also adjust the "cant" of the screen further to reduce glare, etc... to a higher degree than an "in dash" which will already be angled slightly further back to begin with and has a more limited range of motion.

Just my $0.02 :cool:
 
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