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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys just brace yourselves, because I'm ludicrously bad at writing these. I didn't take a ton of pictures but yea. It should give you the jist and help you along.

Ok so, first off, tools and dodads needed (from memory).

10mm socket wrench.
Wire cutters/strippers.
Crimping tool.
Female spade connectors.
Pliers.
5-Pin relay (I don't think a 4-pin would work? idk).
Momentary Normally open switch, or some form of toggle switch.
Wire (duh?)
Common sense.
Follow basic instructions?

So lets begin.

First, lets do the wiring from the cabin into the engine bay. This can be very easy, or very difficult, it's just how you personally want to do it. I personally just ran it up the door, I am way to lazy to drill/find another way into the cabin.

Remove the 2 10mm bolts on the drivers side fender under the hood, and the one that's parallel to the mirror. As below.



Pull the fender slightly back, no need to be brutal here, and wire it like so (in this picture I had already put the 10mm bolt back on, as you can see it).



Now that you have the wiring into the cabin, lets deal with getting the injector wires exposed.

Remove the engine cover, using the 10mm rachet (again). You will see a plastic cover over the wires, as pictured below, just use a screw driver and brute force to pull it apart. I personally unhooked the metal tubing right above it and moved it out of the way, it made life WAY EASIER working in that area. Careful as coolant comes out of one of the tubes (the one I have zip tied up). In the picture below I had already removed the electrical tape around the wires, I figured just showing you covered wires would be a waste of mine/your time. I also moved the PCV valve tube and this other tiny one out of the way.



Next, cut the yellow/black wires, but give yourself enough room to work, DO NOT DAMAGE THE OTHER COLORED WIRES, I believe those are what send the pulses to the injectors. Like below. I had already wire-nutted one end so you can see what it should look like.



Continued on next page.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Both of the wires wire-nutted off and routed to the relay.



Now you must decide where you want your relay, I opted for next to the battery, I just find that the best spot. If you blow out a rad hose or squirt oil everywhere, chances are you won't get anything on it, and it doesn't get in the way of basic maintenance, (oil change, spark pugs, etc etc). This pic has everything hooked up, so yea. Just showing where I put mine.



Now, once you have your relay mounted and both of your injector cuts all sorted out, you must get them plugged in!

The HOT side of the injector plug goes into port #30 on the relay. You must create a jumper from the hot side to pin #85, this is how I did mine.



Next, you want to hook up the COLD side of the injectors to the #87A.

After that, you want to wire one end of your wires going to your switch into pin #86.

Ground the other wire coming from your switch, I used the bolt on the battery box, like so.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now go into the cabin and clean it up! Like so! All done, it almost (almost haha not really) looks like stock!



But this, not so much stock.



And that's it! I know I'm horrible at this, but nobody else gave the effort to make this, and I know at least one person will appriciate this. So it's worth my time! If you guys have any questions or comments, please let me know.

Here, have 2 more since I can of the engine bay after the install, it looks pretty clean to me. Was worth the 2 hours or so it took to install!



 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would like to add, I drove around grabbing coroplast election signs (shh...) and I think it was about 10-15 miles around town and it works like a charm, engine dies really fast, and it actually dies with no lugging or other weird symptoms like the coil kill method was causing.
 

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And that's it! I know I'm horrible at this, but nobody else gave the effort to make this, and I know at least one person will appriciate this. So it's worth my time!
Thanks, Balto! I assume you're talking about me, and you are correct! Mine will have to wait until I get back from my fishing trip this weekend, but I'm definitely gonna do this one.
 

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And that's it! I know I'm horrible at this, but nobody else gave the effort to make this, and I know at least one person will appriciate this. So it's worth my time!
Thanks, Balto! I assume you're talking about me, and you are correct! Mine will have to wait until I get back from my fishing trip this weekend, but I'm definitely gonna do this one.

So when you coast to a stop, or near stop, and click the switch back on, does the auto-start function normally? And do you just throw it in neutral and EOC to a stop, or are you having to keep the clutch pedal in the whole time?
 

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So all3 injector wires are under the wirenut with a 4th piece to the relay?

Arent those accessible by the ecu in the glove box? Our ecu is next to the battery under the hood.

Ive been tempted to do something like that, but my understanding is the ecu grounds the injectors when it wants them to fire and we may have a form of VCM and for this to be success on our car we need like a 4 lead relay so each injector has its own channel.

I guess any changes in mpg on the straightaway will tell?

Cow, fishing before ecoing? :-?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So all3 injector wires are under the wirenut with a 4th piece to the relay?

Arent those accessible by the ecu in the glove box? Our ecu is next to the battery under the hood.

Ive been tempted to do something like that, but my understanding is the ecu grounds the injectors when it wants them to fire and we may have a form of VCM and for this to be success on our car we need like a 4 lead relay so each injector has its own channel.

I guess any changes in mpg on the straightaway will tell?

Cow, fishing before ecoing? :-?
I would be careful before doing anything. I talked to Scott and he was concerned that the wires I wanted to cut were the ones that carry the pulses. If I hadn't talked to a member that personally did this mod, I wouldn't have done it. The way you want to do it would probably look very cluttery under the hood, it would require 4 wires all going to what, a 7-8 pin relay? Idk.

As for MPG gains, I'm no longer using assist because I don't want to drain the IMA battery, my intake temps have dropped to under 80F when they were 120+ in the summer, and that combined with the cold I'm still getting the same MPG I was getting in the hot summer. I would also like to add I haven't changed my driving style. The only thing I'm using the switch for is coasting up to lights/stop signs. I'm not P&G, I'm too lazy for that.
 

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I would like to add, I drove around grabbing coroplast election signs (shh...) and I think it was about 10-15 miles around town and it works like a charm, engine dies really fast, and it actually dies with no lugging or other weird symptoms like the coil kill method was causing.
Does it ever cause problems in normal operations e.g.
1) If injectors killed before coming to a stop does the engine start up normally when the injectors are unkilled?
2) Does it cause any problem with warning lights/error code coming on? I wondered if the car get confused by the engine's behaviour.
3) What happens to the mpg display when the injectors are killed?
4) Would it also work on a CVT?

Has anyone got a circuit diagram for this mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Does it ever cause problems in normal operations e.g.
1) If injectors killed before coming to a stop does the engine start up normally when the injectors are unkilled?
2) Does it cause any problem with warning lights/error code coming on? I wondered if the car get confused by the engine's behaviour.
3) What happens to the mpg display when the injectors are killed?
4) Would it also work on a CVT?

Has anyone got a circuit diagram for this mod?
AFAIK it doesn't cause any problems.
1. Acts like Auto-stop. But you have to hold the clutch in when you kill it via injectors or it will just restart immediatly.
2. Oil pressure/battery/brake light come on, but go off as soon as you restart. No CEL or other error codes.
3. Acts like Auto-stop, 150mpg and your odometer, mpg display and everything else continues to work.
4. Probably not, it would fry your CVT rolling with the engine off anyway (no oil circulation).

Classic. Now all you need is a cassette deck adapter for an external CD player hanging from your review mirror...
Lol :p. I have changed to a push button switch a month or so back that looks much better
 

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1. Acts like Auto-stop. But you have to hold the clutch in when you kill it via injectors or it will just restart immediately.
You need a clutch switch installed to make the injector kill work efficiently. The clutch switch prevents the car from trying to re-start while coasting when you have killed the injectors. Working the two in tandem, I have no problems keeping the motor shut down while coasting without holding my foot on the clutch pedal. Even with the clutch switch off, it will still auto-start when you shift into gear, so it actually makes a perfect platform for P&G.

So far I only kill the injectors when coming up to a light I know I will have to stop at. I pretty much use the injector kill button to extend auto-stop to infinity speed. Normally I try to keep it in lean burn i.l.o. all the P&G I used to do in the Festiva, but as the weather warms up I might experiment with some P&G.
 

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an earlier post said it didnt improve MPG. So why do it?
 

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balto,

Please edit your large photos to fit the forum page.
It screws up the forum so badly no one can read it.

Thanks:)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
balto,

Please edit your large photos to fit the forum page.
It screws up the forum so badly no one can read it.

Thanks:)
Oh I didn't even see this until right now, sorry. Any idea what size won't be forum breaking?
 

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Wiring

Is there a wiring diagram for this. I am confused you say

Next, cut the yellow/black wires, but give yourself enough room to work
Both of the wires wire-nutted off and routed to the relay.


There are 3 wires what happens to the 3rd wire?
How do you know what wire is the hot and what is the ground?
Or do you just nut all the wires together?
 

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I plan on revamping my design in the next 2 weeks. If you would like to wait until then, I'll be including a wire diagram and much more clear instructions on how to do it. If not, PM me and I'll explain in more detail (or probably just give you a call).
 

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I'm very interested. Awaiting your drawing and other good stuff.

I had an injector kill switch in my '97 Civic HX, it was excellent. I really appreciate your writeup so I'll know exactly which wire(s) to cut.

For what it's worth -
My understanding is, the usual system for modern fuel injected gasoline cars is to provide constant hot power to all injectors when the ignition is on. The computer switches the ground for each injector on/off as needed, to create the pulses of fuel injection. For whatever reason, it's a better design to switch the ground than the + side of each circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sorry guys, I had big plans for last week, but I had some major personal issues that ripped all my willpower and motivation from me. I'll get around to it, but it's going to be a while.
 

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Anyone here who's been using this mod:

With this mod, do the tach and speedometer keep working while the switch is depressed? Hopefully the car continues to count up distance traveled so the mpg data stay current.
 

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Yeah, it all still works. Check out my old thread about it on EM if you want a good history of it.

I ran the first three-button 3D printed shifter on the planet in my first Insight (my son has it now) and it was a blast. Between the clutch interrupt, brake regen and kill switch, it's much like the MIMA they sell on this site, but for like 35 bucks.

And yeah, it does gain you a little mpg boost. I'm currently only using the clutch and brake buttons on my second Insight since I haven't had time to install the kill switch, but eventually I'll be using all three buttons in this one too.

The injector kill works much like the auto-stop, but you can kill the motor at any speed, and it auto starts like normal. The only drawback is is that you sacrifice regen while slowing. But with the brake regen button, you get plenty of juice to keep the IMA battery topped off, so it's a wash.
 
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