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Do I have a bad BCM? please help

5K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  f22angel 
#1 ·
Hello all, My car its been giving me 3 IMA codes: 58, 66(P1568), 74(P1449), which I already diagnosed using the repair manuals, by testing the BCM terminals and these are the results:

* C9 and C20: 13.1
* C20 and C7: 12.9
* C7 and C18: 13.2
* C18 and C5: 12.7
* C16 and C15: 13.1
* C15 and C14: 13
* C14 and C13: 13.1
* C13 and C12: 12.9
* C12 and C11: 13
* C11 and C10: 13.1

as I understand according to what the repair manual says to the 74 code troubleshooting:

"Is the difference between the highest and lowest voltage more than 1.2 V?
YES - Replace the battery module.
NO - Substitute a known-good BCM module, and recheck. If the
symptom/indication goes away, replace the original BCM module."

and what it says about the 66 code:

"Is each measurement about 7 V or more?
YES - Substitute a known-good BCM module, turn the battery module switch ON, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original BCM module.
NO - Replace the battery module"


according to that I guess the battery is in good condition, and the BCM need to be replaced, but I need an expert who can confirm my suspects, since im new to this. Any help would be appreciated :)

Note: I've already grid charged and discharged the battery a couple times not a long ago, the max it always reach is 177V

My car is a 2000 insight M/T
 
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#2 · (Edited)
The manual is bunk. 7V or more is complete nonsense. Not sure what Honda was trying to convey there, but taken at face value, that criterion is stupidly incorrect.

You have a COMPLETELY dead battery. A battery with any usable charge in it should NEVER read below 14.4V per tap (resting).

You have one or more of the following:
1) one or more dead cells on each tap
2) one or more cells with excessive self-discharge ON EACH TAP (EDITED)

IMHO, it's most likely #2.

Given that you've reconditioned it, it's likely completely spent.

Does it top out at 177V because current stops flowing, or is current still flowing at 177V?
 
#3 ·
The manual is bunk. 7V or more is complete nonsense. Not sure what Honda was trying to convey there, but taken at face value, that criterion is stupidly incorrect.

You have a COMPLETELY dead battery. A battery with any usable charge in it should NEVER read below 14.4V per tap (resting).

You have one or more of the following:
1) one or more dead cells on each tap
2) one or more cells with excessive self-discharge

IMHO, it's most likely #2.

Given that you've reconditioned it, it's likely completely spent.

Does it top out at 177V because current stops flowing, or is current still flowing at 177V?
Yeah it tops out at 177V, the instructions of my grid charger says that if voltage stays at X number and doesn’t reach in 4 hours the charge is complete.

Do you know any method to test the sticks, so I could swap one or 2 sticks that may went bad.
 
#4 ·
Did you read the tap voltages after a charge or after a discharge?

Sam
 
#7 ·
The car is been sitting for about 2 weeks, prior to that I discharged and charged it 3 times, and it worked fine for about one week with no codes, but if I leave the car with the SoC full in the night In the morning when I had to use it again just with a little use of assist the SoC started to drop along with bat and brake lights on, until it reaches at least 4 bars the lights came off
 
#15 · (Edited)
My Take.

1) No you most likely don't have a bad BCM. That's very rare and usually associated with a HV short circuit fault and leaky stick failure. ..

2) You didn't charge long enough after discharges IMO. Needs minimum 24hrs and ideally 30hrs.

3) You tap voltages if correct are pretty poor and indicate multiple stick problems.
Ideally all the sticks/taps should be within 50-100mv of each other.

I suggest get the pack out and apart, do some proper stick level cycling on the bench with data including 1C capacity, IR, self discharge rate and high current load tolerance.

Off course to do all that you will need skills, some reasonable kit and plenty of time.
You will almost certainly need more sticks to try and build a good pack.

Cut your losses perhaps and buy a new set of sticks or a warrantied sh set from one of the US suppliers.

Or go IMA less and wait until you can go lithium..

Has the battery fan been working when you have been charging? Can you hear it?
Is this a recon or original oem pack?

There are a few typos in the workshop manual and where it says 7v per tap it should read 14+v. If your voltmeter is working your sticks are flat as a fart..

Recon chinese stick packs do not like grid charging or cycling that much and can expand and leak like sieves under charge stress.. :(

Take it all apart, post some pics, measure each stick voltage then we might be able to advise further.
 
#17 ·
1) No you most likely don't have a bad BCM. That's very rare and usually associated with a HV short circuit fault and leaky stick failure. ..

2) You didn't charge long enough after discharges IMO. Needs minimum 24hrs and ideally 30hrs.

3) You tap voltages if correct are pretty poor and indicate multiple stick problems.
Ideally all the sticks/taps should be within 50-100mv of each other.

I suggest get the pack out and apart, do some proper stick level cycling on the bench with data including 1C capacity, IR, self discharge rate and high current load tolerance.

Off course to do all that you will need skills, some reasonable kit and plenty of time.
You will almost certainly need more sticks to try and build a good pack.

Cut your losses perhaps and buy a new set of sticks or a warrantied sh set from one of the US suppliers.

Or go IMA less and wait until you can go lithium..

Has the battery fan been working when you have been charging? Can you hear it?
Is this a recon or original oem pack?

There are a few typos in the workshop manual and where it says 7v per tap it should read 14+v. If your voltmeter is working your sticks are flat as a fart..

Recon chinese stick packs do not like grid charging or cycling that much and can expand and leak like sieves under charge stress..


Take it all apart, post some pics, measure each stick voltage then we might be able to advise further.
Before taking it apart do you think I should give it another grid charge to 30-36 hours?

What kit do I need to do the stick cycling process?

I’ve seen hybrid revolt sells individual sticks in their webpage, beside them, where else could I get them from?

Yeah I’ve been IMAless before just by removing the under-dash IMA fuse, but the car is slow as hell ?and I got a CEL, I’ve seen there’s a mod to trick the system and turn the CEL off but I don’t understand very well how.
How hard and expensive is to convert it to lithium?

Yes, the battery fan works, and Idk if it is the Original pack or not, how can I figure it out?
 
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