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Yes easier solution than I thought found a replacement bearing via SKF uses a 6207VSP33 bearing which also fits Ford 5 spd transmission main shaft rear bearing. Bearing ordered just gotta wait again cost approximately $35.00.
 

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input shaft sleeve from amazo

The input shaft sleeve can be ordered from amazon as a roller bearing inside race check out page 12 of this subject.
 

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that sleeve may work on the drive pulley bearing but here is my take on using it. The recommended sleeve is a hardened inner race ,which means brittle, it is machined for a slip/low press interferance fit. The original bearing must be a close tolerance press fit as it also serves to hold pulley in place, you need a minumum of .003=.005 press fit. The other bearing on the driven pulley is a slip interferance fit as it is held in place by the nut on the driven pulley and a bolted on bearing retiner in case.
 

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I did the same thing on the 6207VSP33 bearing I think I used a Mazda bearing from NAPA.
I had the roller sleeve and bearing tack welded together in three places to prevent the movement, since it is only held in place by the outer part of the bearing. One reason I went with it was that the local machine shops did not want to make the inner race. One said setup alone would be about $85 and it would be made out of a softer metal the original bearing matrial. I suggested to have them machine the old ID from the old ISB but they said it was too hard and did not want to do it. Lucky you knew someone to do it cheap.
I also did not want to put alot of money in to it as there are not very many people that have done this and posted anything.
Seems to be working great so far.
 

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Hi guys. congrats on the rebuilds you've done; that's way beyond my meager skill set. One option just for people's information is that there is a guy in LA (Clarks Autos and Trucks) who had a bunch of bearings made for the CVT from an outfit in Japan. He just rebuilt mine (bearings were bad but it needed other work too). I drove it close to 400 miles last night for the first time on the rebuilt CVT (had to get back to NorCal from LA), and the transmission sounds great. He seems to specialize in fixing and selling used Gen 1 insights; one of the few guys who work for him thought they sold maybe 100 a year. Hopefully I'll be able to get a few hundred thousand miles on this rebuilt CVT; time will tell. I had never met him before yesterday, but had my car shipped to him. He charged me $1300, which seemed like a good option given my limited skills and my uncertainty over putting in a junkyard one with unknown wear.
 

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Well took some time due to some unforseen life issues but MIZER rides again. Been driving her to work for a week now and no noise no shudder working great and no leaks. The CVT isnt that difficult a transmission to rebuild and using some creativity didnt need any special tools other than ones in tool box now, with exception of making a plate to depress clutch pack piston springs to use with my auto trans clutch tool. Used A/C compressor clutch puller to pull start clutch off shaft and used sliughtly modified Nipondensa A/C clutch plate installer to install start clutch pack. Total cost to rebuild with all clutch discs w/steels, reseal and all bearings in CVT and differential plus fluid came to about $290.00. I think I got off cheap and hopefully get another 160000 miles out of transmission. Next is to get a new battery for MIZER. Oh and Jeff thanks for info on supplier for special bearing feel much better with it than alternative and the company was great to deal with.
 

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Hi guys. congrats on the rebuilds you've done; that's way beyond my meager skill set. One option just for people's information is that there is a guy in LA (Clarks Autos and Trucks) who had a bunch of bearings made for the CVT from an outfit in Japan. He just rebuilt mine (bearings were bad but it needed other work too). I drove it close to 400 miles last night for the first time on the rebuilt CVT (had to get back to NorCal from LA), and the transmission sounds great. He seems to specialize in fixing and selling used Gen 1 insights; one of the few guys who work for him thought they sold maybe 100 a year. Hopefully I'll be able to get a few hundred thousand miles on this rebuilt CVT; time will tell. I had never met him before yesterday, but had my car shipped to him. He charged me $1300, which seemed like a good option given my limited skills and my uncertainty over putting in a junkyard one with unknown wear.
Here's another plug for Clark's Autos and Trucks in Eagle Rock, CA. My CVT start making noise at ~180K and at 189K sounded like it was going to fall out of the car! Clark had a CVT they rebuilt on hand and installed it in one day. Mine was rebuildable which they will do to have ready for the next guy. Total cost: $900.

500+ miles down the road and the silence from my "new" CVT is golden!
 

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If that includes all the labor to remove and install and the cost of the rebuilt transmission then that sounds like a pretty fair price! Glad you are back on the road again.
 

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I haven't read through all 13 pages here, but I didn't see any mention of replacing the metal drive belt that costs $600. Would that be a normal part to replace during the overhaul?
 

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I haven't read through all 13 pages here, but I didn't see any mention of replacing the metal drive belt that costs $600. Would that be a normal part to replace during the overhaul?
In my opinion, no. It's a really hefty belt that doesn't see much actual wear.

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional mechanic, I've only rebuilt two of these CVTs.
 

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Hey guys I'm in the middle of tearing down my cvt and I'm kind of stuck at the clutch piston's spring retainer snap ring. I read this thread several times and I don't think anyone mentioned what they used in lieu of the special tool. I'm thinking the bar of a timing gear puller with some fiddling? I don't have one or I would have tried



Here's where I'm at:
 

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Loaned a timing gear puller from auto part store and it worked



Surprisingly the bearing retainer is completely intact. It's still my top suspect as I have had same symptoms as rest of you had with this failed bearing. I can feel coarseness when turning the shaft so I know one of the bearings is bad.



Now to remove the start clutch and separate the intermediate plate :-|
 

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I was able to get the start clutch off and it was quite an ordeal. The pullers I had would simply not grip no matter what I tried, including stuffing bolts of various sizes in the shoulders. The claws kept slipping off during tightening due to the angle. I ended up using a pipe clamp on the arms of the puller forcing them to stay on the park gear, you could also use a large c-clamp for this. Another thing is to make sure you remove the split retaining washer in front of the start clutch, it's under a snap ring and then under a little metal cover that keeps it in place. If you're not following the diagram closely its easy to miss.

I can confirm my drive pulley bearing has failed. 2001 with 130k miles.
 

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Just got the car buttoned up and took it for a first drive around the neighborhood and can report a successfully rebuilt cvt. Start clutch is slipping and late as others reported, going to try pulling fuses redleader mentioned, gotta get more atf from Honda too. The horrible growl has been silenced! :D

Edit: I wanted to add a link to jeff652's cvt rebuild thread here. Good reading for anyone attempting this. Also, the start clutch relearn procedure here.
 

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CVT P1885 code and no Drive or Reverse

Self reply, in case anyone is interested:

My CVT is actually still alive. A faulty electrical connection at the input drive pulley (P1885 code) was incorrectly diagnosed by myself and a shop as a failed transmission. A few codes were thrown (causing the confusion) , but the P1885 was the only persistent code. Symptoms were a flashing "D" light on the dash, and minimal coupling of power from engine to the wheels when in drive. Car now drives fine, throws no codes.

My main issue now is that my girlfriend already bought a new car, so I have an extra insight in my driveway :p
I just changed out the transmission in my 2002 Insight and now it has a P1885 code. I followed all the directions in the Honda shop manual by checking the wiring, verifying voltages then changed the sensor with another good one plus replaced the TCM with no luck. Are there any other things someone would suggest as my gut is telling this is electrical and not a "bad" transmission. As I search the web ... everyone says just follow the testing procedures but never see the final results. Thanks for your suggestions.
 

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I can't help you with the 1885.

Why did you replace the transmission? What was wrong with the old one?

It is common for the "no Drive-No Reverse" problem to be caused by stripped splines in the flywheel. This usually happens with no warning and no codes. Did you replace the flywheel? Did you verify that the splines were good?

What is your location? Please update in User Control Panel.

Sam
 

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well crud finnaly got what I thought was every thing to finish GASMIZR's transmission , bought special tool to install start clutch and fabricated plate for clutch packs. Had sleeve machined for driven pulley bearing and wouldnt you know it went to chnage the 6207 bearing on drive pulley and dahhmmmed if Honda didnt pull same trick as bearing on driven pulley, special inner race size!!!!!!! Standard 6207 bearing has a 35mm inner diameter and Honda's "6207" has an inner race of 33mm sooooo back to machinst I go to get another sleeve machined, good thing my machinist is not charging me for making sleeves.My CVT was making noise and both bearings had a roughness to them reason for changing ALL bearings in transmission, total cost for parts is approximately $340.00, which includes bearings, all seals ,O rings and clutch frictions and steels.
On another note I am actively looking for rebuildable CVT cores to rebuild/repair and offer for exchange if anyone is interested.
I am working on rebuilding a CVT Transmission on a 2004 Honda Civic Hybrid. Can you please point me in the right direction so I can buy a start clutch installation tool? Also any advice on rebuilding this transmission would be greatly appreciated, like where to get good parts at good prices and if I can buy the start clutch as a whole or do I have to rebuild it myself? How about the bearing? Is it easy to remove and replace? Thank you very much and advance.


Herman
 
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