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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I tried the grid charging avenue to no avail, then I took the charging harness off of the battery and reassembled, now when I turn the battery on and put a volt meter to the terminals I get 0. However when I put it to the positive terminal and the place where the harness hooked in i get 176 like normal. So somehow there is a disconnect between there and the terminal that the negative lead connects to, there’s some wiring and boxes and stuff in between, Is there a fuse or something that could have gone off? Everything looks clean and normal and I didn’t break anything or do anything stupid, here is a picture of where I put the volt
Meter when it reads correct, but when I put it where the leads connect I get nothing please help!!
90403
 

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I believe the black box your negative voltmeter lead is on is the contactor, which is a computer-controlled relay. You won't see a voltage on those screw terminals unless the car is on and commanding the contactor to close, allowing current to flow from the battery to the screw terminals.

That being said there's a fuse somewhere on your battery, although I'm not as familiar with the HCH2. The fuse is probably under a plastic cover, and you can use a multimeter to verify its connectivity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe the black box your negative voltmeter lead is on is the contactor, which is a computer-controlled relay. You won't see a voltage on those screw terminals unless the car is on and commanding the contactor to close, allowing current to flow from the battery to the screw terminals.

That being said there's a fuse somewhere on your battery, although I'm not as familiar with the HCH2. The fuse is probably under a plastic cover, and you can use a multimeter to verify its connectivity.
ohhh ok. Thank you! I swear when I was taking it apart I could see the voltage coming from those terminals but alas when I start the car it worked. I was trying to stick the volt meter in the battery modules voltage tap but nothing was coming out and I don’t know if it’s a good idea to be prodding in there wirh the car running. Anyone know how to read the voltage of the individual battery cells without taking the whole battery apart ?
 

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Yes you can get the voltages of each pair of sticks. See that orange wire harness in the right of the image, you can use your voltmeter on that to get the voltages of the 11 subpacks. So instead of disassembling the battery you can remove the orange connector from the computer and use your multimeter, then put the wire back in the computer and the car is driveable again.

I'm not sure the exact pinout of the connector, but you can figure it out with the voltmeter, all the packs are still in series and there's no other wires like data or anything in that harness.

Something I've found when troubleshooting, is any bad sub packs will rise up to normal voltages overnight, yet they're still drained even though they appear fine. So make sure if you're out driving and the IMA light comes on to check those subpack voltages as soon as you finish your drive. It'll be easier to tell which subpack the problem is in.
 

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So I tried the grid charging avenue to no avail, then I took the charging harness off of the battery and reassembled, now when I turn the battery on and put a volt meter to the terminals I get 0. However when I put it to the positive terminal and the place where the harness hooked in i get 176 like normal. So somehow there is a disconnect between there and the terminal that the negative lead connects to, there’s some wiring and boxes and stuff in between, Is there a fuse or something that could have gone off? Everything looks clean and normal and I didn’t break anything or do anything stupid, here is a picture of where I put the volt
Meter when it reads correct, but when I put it where the leads connect I get nothing please help!! View attachment 90403
Please do not post the same stuff in multiple places.
Keep all your questions etc in one thread. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you can get the voltages of each pair of sticks. See that orange wire harness in the right of the image, you can use your voltmeter on that to get the voltages of the 11 subpacks. So instead of disassembling the battery you can remove the orange connector from the computer and use your multimeter, then put the wire back in the computer and the car is driveable again.

I'm not sure the exact pinout of the connector, but you can figure it out with the voltmeter, all the packs are still in series and there's no other wires like data or anything in that harness.

Something I've found when troubleshooting, is any bad sub packs will rise up to normal voltages overnight, yet they're still drained even though they appear fine. So make sure if you're out driving and the IMA light comes on to check those subpack voltages as soon as you finish your drive. It'll be easier to tell which subpack the problem is in.
Awesome thank you!
 
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