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This new fact inspired me to go outside with a few different keys and play. Yes it seems as though turning the key more to the right does mechanically unlock the door. First stop to the right the locks all click open and the second position at least feels like a mechanical lock. I suppose the 12 volt battery would have to be diconnected to confirm this, but thats what it feels like. I just had a recalibration the other day otherwise I would disconnect the 12 volt and see, but I'm not in the recalibration mood at the moment.
 

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Wait, no second thought on the rear hatch lock. It would almost have to be an electrical connection for the rear hatch. You can take the whole tail light off to replace a burnt out bulb, so it would have to be some kind of electrical connection. After all, the release on the hatch is just a button that activates the latch release electrically. As far as the doors, now I'm curious too.
 

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Jim that doesn't necessarily mean there is a physical link between that switch and the lock. I've had that tail light off while playing with some led clutster and there would have had to been a cable of something, not wires that go in to that tail light for there to be a link that unlatches the hatch. I'm going to guess that you have to have electricity to open the hatch, but not the side doors.
 

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There are the two screws behind the tabs on the outer side that are revealed by opening the hatch then you have to fold back the fuzzy cardboard they call carpet behind the light on the inside of the car, under a piece of sticky foam is a cut out where a screw inside is located, that holds the main housing in. I think it's in the owners manual how to take them apart. As far as the LED's, I thought it would be cool to have them on such a car and that I could save some watts by doing so. And yes it would have saved me at least 4 amps by just doing the brake lights, but unfortunately either the Insight is either wired non standard, or the APC (I know, Rice boy stuff, but they were the only ones to make that size led clusters) clusters were not oem standard as they claim. But anyways because they were more designed to send directional light in to a diffuser the resulting light output would have been very unsafe to drive with. Also I could get the brake light to work, but then as soon as the running lights were turned on it shorted back across the led's (PM me if you want a technical explaination) and blew a fuse. Too bad, I have another led idea looming in the back of my mind if I can find a spare set of brake lights without spending the $300 Honda wants for them.

My main point though as to why I think the key would be an electrical actuation of the hatch though is becuase if I recall correctly the key hole is part of the tail light fixture.
 
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