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Discussion Starter #1
My ECM on my 2000 Insight MT just died on me and I’m looking for a replacement. Do I have to replace it with the same number or can I get a different one? I’m having trouble finding one for a decent price. Thanks in advance.
 

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What makes you think it is dead? They very rarely fail.
Please give full details.
 

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I brought it to my mechanic and he tested it. The check engine light was on and it came up with the EGR error. I already had replaced the EGR valve and cleaned out the EGR plate. Didn’t change anything. Still backfiring and hesitating at low speeds. He said the ECM is bad. Just trusting what he said, I know very little about these cars.
 

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I'll be very surprised if the ECM is bad. They symptoms you describe could be for a host of reasons.

Are all the engine earth leads perfect?
Is the 12v battery properly charged and in good condition?

Backfiring is very unusual, I would be suspecting plugs and ignition system after the above.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have to check. It’s still at the shop. I’m probably going to pick it up today because I can’t afford $700+ for a new ECM. I’ll dig into it and see what I can find. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for your help.
 

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If your ECM is indeed bad, I can hook you up with a good used -505 ECU for a reasonable amount. However, you should be aware that you will need to get your keys programmed to the new ECM or else it won't start because of the immobilizer.

This being said, I'm dubious that your ECM is bad. It seems more likely that either you either have a bad new EGR valve or damaged wiring.

The replacement EGR Valve that several folks have had good luck with is a WVE 4F1006 (<-- link to it on Rockauto) EGR valve. It has the proper, large port openings like the OE Honda valve. It does require bending a wire support bracket to clear the plug on the valve. Super easy.
 

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I got the EGR valve from Rock Auto. It had great reviews. I replaced it because I cleaned the EGR plate and most people said it would fix my issue. But it didn’t. And the only reason I was going to replace the ECM is because my mechanic said it would fix my issue. Just trusting everyone that is smarter than I am...
 

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I'm traveling to Atlanta at some point in the next two weeks, I can bring along a spare ECM with me and let you test it out. I agree with the others that it's unlikely to be bad, but anything is possible.
 

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This could be anything from a cam problem or timing problem to a vacuum leak or the idle air valve or an injector that's stuck open to a bad spark plug coil to .....

Thinking aloud
  • Pull EGR valve connector. This should close the EGR valve and you will throw codes but it should run just fine. If not, remove valve and see if it is stuck open. I have had problems with new EGR valves due to different design but not like this
  • If the car runs great at speed and poorly at idle, or vice versa, it's usually an air or fuel problem
  • Make sure the valve lash is correct - that's so easy to do and everyone should do it
  • Check all your grounds and make sure the bolts for all the ignition coils are tightened to spec (not overtightened) - make sure none are loose
  • Buying cheap ECU to swap is not really so bad; it's a learning experience, even if it doesn't help and ends up in your spare parts bin.
  • Tip on finding compatible ECUs:
  • I have recently come to realize that throwing new parts at a problem is NOT a bad thing on old cars like this IF
    • if it is YOU who is doing all the work - the research, the purchase, the replacement, the testing, the joy when it works and the temporary disappointment to find it made no difference
    • If you are not paying for someone else's automotive education and getting nothing out of it
    • If you promise not to send the part back just because you guessed wrong. that's the cost of the lesson. (ok to bring back if it really is the wrong part)
    • if you buy OEM parts or parts that the Insight community has vetted (not cheap parts that have better than average reviews because they have a lot of "5" reviews that counterbalance the "1"s at the bottom)
    • if the new part will stop the nagging question in the mind, "is this part bad"? which it will! and that means a lot! it will let you focus on new areas.
    • Often the part in question has a finite life and replacing it with a quality part will improve performance
    • The part being replaced may work but be out of spec and, once replaced, will help the ECU throw the proper code because it's no longer being fooled by off values from that part (the ECU has to assume one part fails and all others are OK; it's like if you ask three people for directions and two don't know and don't tell you and point you in random directions you're going to go the wrong way even if the third person is right. But if only one of the three doesn't know and there other two do, it's pretty easy to flag the one who doesn't know.
    • You will learn a lot from the job and soon become your own mechanic and learn how certain parts make your car behave
    • You may end up with a box of parts that you can use in a pinch and can swap with Insight friends
    • Finally, the new part will probably last more than 100K miles and when the problem is fixed the car may run GREAT for a LONG time.
 

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Folks typically post the Pxxxx code they are getting which triggers "yeah I had that problem and" posts and solutions start coming in.

I believe there is a test procedure in one of the manuals in the stickies which requires a voltmeter and much not else. It's only for gross faults like a bad connector or shorted or open wire or a short or open inside the ECU or a major electrical fault in the valve. If the mechanic did not do this test, he's just guessing, and if he did not do it three times to convince himself that it in fact is the ECU (because I've never heard of an Insight ECU fail) then, well, yeah.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If your ECM is indeed bad, I can hook you up with a good used -505 ECU for a reasonable amount. However, you should be aware that you will need to get your keys programmed to the new ECM or else it won't start because of the immobilizer.

This being said, I'm dubious that your ECM is bad. It seems more likely that either you either have a bad new EGR valve or damaged wiring.

The replacement EGR Valve that several folks have had good luck with is a WVE 4F1006 (<-- link to it on Rockauto) EGR valve. It has the proper, large port openings like the OE Honda valve. It does require bending a wire support bracket to clear the plug on the valve. Super easy.
I really don’t know if it’s bad or not. How much would you charge me for the 505?
 

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My eBay EGR gone bad after about a year, the engine was running so bad that I thought I lost a cylinder. My mechanic unbolted the EGR valve and put a gasket material to block between the valve and the engine block as a test, then the car instantly ran better with CEL on. I then found an Odyssey EGR valve and been using that since.

I would suggest do this test first, since it only cost a few dollar.
 

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I really don’t know if it’s bad or not. How much would you charge me for the 505?
Please try some of the suggestions in this thread before buying a new ECU! There's a lot of smart people on this forum who have lots of experience with these cars. Like retepsnikrep said, it is true that an ECU failure is extremely rare, and there are many other common failures that can give similar symptoms. As Sean suggested, please pull the connector off the EGR valve and see how it runs, and check all your ground straps. Two very easy things to try that are common problems on these cars.
 
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