I just thought I would post this up for anyone looking to run a different ecm, or a key has been lost and you dont want to pay dealer to program a new key.
Now you can actually remove the immobilizer chip from the ecm by desoldering or cutting chip off the ecm. Doing so will actually allow you to run un-programmed key or different ecm with no immobilizer (green key dash light) but it will throw a code I cant remember but I believe it was a po1637 code. Another con is a few second delay start on key turn *quite annoying*. So if you dont mind check engine light and delayed engine crank on key over then this solution will work just fine for you.
It ships from China and suprisingly it arrived in a week.
To install you have to de-solder the original immobilizer chip and add this one in its place. I chose to de-solder the pins from the oem chip and solder to the immobilizer bypass chip to easy installation but you could use head pins or wire too.
With the bypass installed everything works perfectly no delay on key turn no check engine lights no immobilizer light.
Also before I tried the bypass chip I tried actually removing the oem immobilizer chip from my original 345 ecm and then swapped it into the 505 ecm. This actually wouldnt turn the car over and gave a green immobilizer light.
So, my green immobilizer light has been flashing nearly non-stop while driving the vehicle. I am sometimes under the impression it is causing problems while I am driving that may be often times looked at as other problems. Sometimes, the key flashes so in sync with some of the jerkyness in my insight I think they have to be related.
Anyway, what you're saying is that when you bought and installed an IMMO emulator into your ECM you were then able to have a key cut without a chip and use it to start the car? For you, this has not caused any problems with the green key light flashing in the bottom left?
I.E. This should make my green key light stop flashing when I continue to use the keys I already have. AND for funsies I can buy one of the flippy fobs too? (P.S. I don't have a remote system installed but I love the flippy keys. Can you elaborate on what I'd need to do to get the remote to work as well?
Thank you for bringing these products to our attention!
Thanks for sharing. The gen 2 guys have been successful in going to a flip key with little to no problems. There is a diy for Fit owners that shows how to remove the chip and reposition it to send a better signal to the car.
SO if I wanted to install a Jap lean burn CVT ECU into an american CVT I would probably need one of these (father sees one a half mile from us with 90k)
I've had a look at how the bypass chip Stueveo bought works after he kindly sent me one.
I installed one in spare US Ecm and powered it up on the bench.
It has three components.
1) A minimal spec surface mount pic chip.
2) A 0.1uf cap across the power pins.
3) A low value resistor on the PWM output pin marked 001 (Seems odd)
It has four active connections working from left to right.
Pin1 Gnd
Pin4 +5V
Pin8 1khz 50% duty 5V continuous PWM
Pin10 Pulled high for 2 seconds to turn on Immob light then goes low
So basically as soon as the ECM is powered up the Immob device sends out a continuous train of 1khz pwm at 50% duty all the time the car is on.
It also turns on the dash Immob light for two seconds as does the standard setup when you turn on the ign.
You can buy the device for $19 on e-bay so not worth making one.
But always nice to know how it works.
Useful for those swapping ECU's back and forth in a LB quest
Yup, have removed that chip out of several Accord ECU's during car repairs for owners who didn't want to pay the money for a new ECU from Honda.
These ecu's were all damaged various ways and were no good therefore needing replacements. They chose junk yard used ones and didn't care about having to wait 2 seconds to start the car and the CEL.
I'm interested in the immobilizer bypass chip as I think my 2000 Honda Accord EX is not responding to my keys' chip. The green key always blinks when the key is in the run position. It starts whenever, "It wants too!"
Hey Lee,
Intermittent immobilizer functionality is likely due to the pickup coil surrounding the mechanical key tumbler wearing out. You can replace that part and that should fix the problem.
I don't know if the insight-specific modification presented in this thread will work as-is in other Honda vehicles, but I imagine there is a similar workaround in your particular car. Do note that the insight is quite different from most other vehicles, as Honda used it as a sandbox for new technology (most of which they abandoned).
For a 2000 Insight, if I don't have original ECU can I swap in the ECU and transponder unit on the steering column from the same year parts car and be able to use the key from the parts car? If so, would I or could I also swap in the door and hatchback remote units from the same donor car?
The key has to match the ECU. No need to swap the transponder. They are all the same. All it does is read the key. No need to fool with the remotes.
If the key isn't the one that goes with the car, the easiest thing is to have a new key made. Have them make a key where the chip matches the ECU and the "cut" on the blade matches the car.
So if I have the key and ECU from the donor car I can just install the ECU into the car with the missing ECU and should be good to go with transponder? If I want to use manual locking of doors/hatch wouldn't I need to swap the physical locks from donor to desired car so the cut of the donor key fits and works with the locks?
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