[olrowdy01]

Hello everyone,

Working on my 2000 Insight MT 95K and still having some jerking problems. So I am looking at the EGR valve to possibly fix the problem. The EGR has been cleaned before in the life of this car but not sure when. So I attempting to clean the EGR by spraying electronic terminal cleaner into the top portion but I am not sure how to cycle the EGR from open to closed. I have five terminals to put the positive and negative leads too but from reading the threads I didn't read about where to put your positive and negative leads. I can just use the regular 12v car battery for this correct?

These are the 5 terminals/connections
View attachment 94081
So where do I attach gator clips too?

Cheers!

You can download a schematic of the car etc on the manuals thread (wherever it is on the latest version of the forum). Try a forum search for "manuals".

IIRC The valve starts to open a little over 2.3 V which is controlled by the engine ECU.
12 Vdc is way too much voltage for the valve.

My MT engine has to be above 154° F before lean burn can engage and it's best for the engine to be fully warmed up for testing.

Try disconnecting the EGR connector and see if that gets rid of the herky jerky. The valve should be closed while in lean burn.

My Accord EGR valve cost $5 from my favorite junk yard. Over the years I've found that junk cars will sometimes have brand new-last-resort parts to fix the car before it was junked. My EGR valve was new and made by Seimens.

I would guess if it looks like an Insight EGR valve it should work.

 

[olrowdy01]

Great detailed video Jeffffej.

I will probably clean the top portion like you did and see if that rids the problem completely.

Happy driving!

The normal problem with an old-original EGR valve is that the sensor slider contact inside the valve itself had the moving contact installed upside down when it was manufactured!! Over time the resistor part of the valve position sensor gets damaged by the scraper portion of the upside down sliding contact.

People have taken the valve apart to turn the sliding contact over which will sometimes fix the sensor but it's generally a band aid fix depending upon how damaged the sensor resistance is. Once the resistance is damaged there is no way to fix that. It's like having a "scratchy" volume control on a radio. Spray cleaning inside the valve body might also appear to "fix" the sensor but all that is doing is washing the loose (damaged) sensor material away.

The ECU sends a variable voltage to control how much exhaust to bypass into the intake system when accelerating. The EGR valve is not energized at all in lean burn [as determined by my OBDIIc&c]. If you have herky-jerky with the EGR connector disconnected, cleaning the valve & seat itself might cure it if the valve is leaking when "closed".

In operation the valve normally doesn't open all the way but the damaged sensor can send conflicting data to the ECU that causes it to not set the valve opening properly.

Also there are three small restrictions in the EGR plate that set the maximum amount of exhaust flow into each of the engine cylinders. Those restrictions, over time, can get clogged and need to be cleaned out if necessary.